1998 JOHNSON 4 CYL 130 HPRECTIFIER QUESTION

"My motor suddenly stopped fir

"My motor suddenly stopped firing on one bank.

The timer base and the stator checked out OK; the power pack did not

I changed out the PP. It fired on all cyl’s for a few seconds and quit.

It would seem by what I have read that my rectifier is bad. But I’m stumped.

The procedure I used for testing it was black test meter lead to rectifier ground and the red meter lead to the yellow and red rectifier wires, then reverse the procedure. I had disconnected all the leads from the rectifier before testing.

My problem is that I got an ohm reading both ways. The procedure said a good unit should have ohms one way and no ohms the other way. It does not say what to conclude if an ohm reading is in both directions.

I am by no means an electrical whiz. Is my rectifier checking the way a bad rectifier should check?"

The rectifier converts ac volt

The rectifier converts ac voltage to dc by diodes which stop voltage flowing both directions.

If you have a reading both ways the rectifier is bad and should be replaced.

You should check the voltages coming out of the stator triggers and pack with a dva reading volt meter as well to confirm they are good.

Check all earth and wiring conection as a bad conection will fry a rectifier.

Loose battery terminals can fry a rectifier...dont use wing nuts!! use proper nuts which tighten up properly.

Are the thermostats in the engine as the remove can cause air pockets around the rectifier causing it to fry. I hope this helps

"A defective rectifier/regulat

"A defective rectifier/regulator may hardly kill a power pack, but a defective ignition system may kill a rectifier!
The systems are split, but if you have a faulty ignition system resulting in a spark jump from the high tension lead into either the power pack primary or engine harness, trouble may occur!
Double check your coils and high tension leads, be sure you use Champion QL plugs and not any NGK 'R' plugs."

"I know what the first thing I

"I know what the first thing I am going to do when I get to heaven is look up the gremlin that has been plaguing me for all my sixty years of wrestling with wiring problems, grab it and take a big bite out of its ass.

After changing out a timer base, stator, (2) power packs, and a rectifier, busting my butt removing the flywheel, many days waiting for parts to show up UPS, and no improvement I had pretty much thrown in the towel and was about to take my problem to a pro.

At the start of the project I had a reading of 12.5 volts at the battery and 11.5 at the purple wire going to the rectifier, since I had two cylinders firing I did not figure it to be my nemesis (like 99% ground wire problems).

Fortunately for me the gods finally had it with the gremlin and came to my rescue.

At the end, no starter.

That led me to the ignition switch. It was less then 6 months old but had almost disappeared from corrosion. The starter wire at the switch had finally broken away. What luck.

When I replaced the ignition switch the motor started up like nothing ever happened, 12.5 volts at the purple wire.

All along the gremlin kept increasing the degree of difficulty. I thought the last glitch was the mother of all. This one took the prize by a long shot.

What next gremlin?"

This motor has a rectifier/reg

This motor has a rectifier/regulator. Not so sure how you can test one of those with a meter. (the simple 3 or 4 wire non regulated rectifiers can be tested easily)

Re the comment about plugs. Perfectly correct that you should not use resistor plugs like the NGK R ones. The NGK equivalents to the Champion QL plugs are identified by Z in the number but I am not aware of an NGK equivalent to the QL78YC listed as the plugs for this engine