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2002 Merc 50L carb temp gauge going in reverse

unix1111

New member
"Hello,

drive: alpha1 gen 2


"Hello,

drive: alpha1 gen 2

Afer letting engine warm up to 160 deg.(145 thermostat installed), run the boat up to 3800rpm, my temp. gauge goes in reverse, goes down to 100 deg., backing off to 1200 rpm, temp. gauge goes back to normal 160 deg. No over heat aLarm? Checked riser temps. with infrared temp. gun, risers between 170-185 deg.


David"
 
"well, to check proper gauge o

"well, to check proper gauge operation touch the sender wire to ground, if it pegs at max temp, it's OK.. now about the temp dropping, you could have an issue where at idle the impeller isn't providing enough cooling, then when you increase the RPMS.. it works as it should and overcomes the heat generation of the engine. Or there's a restriction but the impeller overcomes it."
 
"Hello,

Thanks Brian,
I fe


"Hello,

Thanks Brian,
I feel the temp. gauge is working as should, temp. gauge moves as temp. of engine rises when engine first starts and is idling to warm up temp.

The impeller is able to hold temps. steady at idle and at higher rpm. When running on plane, temp. gauge goes in reverse shows engine temps. getting too cool, below normal operating temp. of 160 deg. Port risers also feel hot.

When I back off the rpms, temp. of engine goes to normal.


David"
 
Replace the impeller as Brian

Replace the impeller as Brian mentioned. Thermostat should be 160 F.? Replace it also.
 
"You boat in saltwater? Ever c

"You boat in saltwater? Ever change the risers if yes?

7-8 years long time for risers in saltwater,even if you flush after every use."
 
"Hello,

Yes, I'm in sal


"Hello,

Yes, I'm in saltwater, changed the risers and manifolds two seasons ago.

Changed impeller start of this season.


David"
 
"and the flapper / shutters we

"and the flapper / shutters were in place? I see you know your chit, and taking care of the " Baby ".

Maybe just maybe you went thru some sand f--ked up the impeller, or housing.

Or a bad impeller from new heard a bunch of bad ones came out and were just bad and went in alot of boats not your fault ether way.

I'm hoping just the impeller is bad.

Good luck !"
 
"Thermostat is stuck open. Low

"Thermostat is stuck open. Low revs, low water flow, temperature normal. Hi revs, large water flow, cools motor down, Gauge reads backwards.
He only checked the Riser/ manifolds with the IR gun and they always have full water flow and not controlled by the thermostat."
 
"Thank you all for the replies

"Thank you all for the replies. Sounds like I've got some work to do in the spring 2010, replacing the thermostat and impeller. Also going to check the port riser for any restriction.


David"
 
Hello All,

I have the exact same problem with my 5.0L MC. I was reading down hoping that the next entry was going to tell me how to solve the problem. I am not sure how things ended up for UNIX 1111. I have already changed out my termostat and that did not help. I have ordered a new guage (got one for a good price) but I do not think that is the problem. My next step will be to check the sensor on the termostat housing. Any other suggestions? Thanks in advance
 
This is my take on your situation.

1. the motor is not over heating, thats good.


lets look at how the water flow works,

impeller in outdrive supplies water to engine,
engine water pump circulates the water in the engine
thermostat controlls the temp to set point determined by the thermostat.


WHat influences the water flow,

At idle the raw water is pumped up to the thermo housing, the housing has two bypass ports that allow raw water to flow to the elbows (typically) to cool the exhaust exiting the manifolds.
The thermostat stays closed until sufficient temp is reached then it cycles to maintain that temp.

A normal system will stay at 150-160 all the time and when running at higher rpms it will drop back 10-20 degrees due to cold water rushing in then it will catch up and stabilize at typically a higher temp, 160-180 depending on thermostat rating. When you slow down and come back to idle it may go higher for a short time but will come down to normal 150-160,

So in my opinion there are several factors that can change the normal operation.

lack of water in, due to bad impeller or torn gaskets at impeller housing ect etc.
restriction going out such as rust scale etc etc.
both of the above would cause a over temp situation.

You are "seeing" a under temp situation.

That conditon shows what happens when there is NO thermostat in the housing. The water flow is less at idle so the temp stabilizes. as rpms increase the water flow/volume does also and therefore cools the engine down as there is no thermostat to controll/maintain the temp.

So assuming your water in is good and your water out is good, no restrictions or issues at impeller then the issue has to be in the thermostat housing.

Either the thermostat is installed wrong, or the housing is bad, ie rusted and the bypass ports are bigger than normal or other areas inside may be open/larger than normal due to corrosion. Or maybe just a bad thermostat. uncommon but can happen.

the last thing that could be wrong would be the sending unit itself.

The sending unit is no more than a variable resistor and the change in resistance should be linear. What could happen is the sender get warm at idle and displays the temp you see but when colder water hits it as rpms increase and the temp gets cooler the sender drops but does not recover untill the engine stabilizes at idle ( long shot and I may be a bit over caffiened this morning)

Other and last possibility is bad ground at sending unit to manifold. the threads of the sender must be clean and no sealent of any kind used as this is the grouind connection for the sender.

Best I can come up with for now.........hope it helps......

I myself, my temp guage rarley goes over 120 but I am too lazy to figure out why............lol

Most likely in my case it is the sender, its 23 years old.........
 
Thank you KGhost, I welcome all info. When I took the thermostat housing off I cleaned it up the best I could and did not see any obvious problems. Frankly, I felt confident my problem was the thermostat and my problem would soon be over. The new thermostat went in well but acted the same as the old one, so I am now confident it is not the issue... Chiefalen has asked me to start a separate post which I have done. RES
 
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