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Anti Freeze out Exaust

W

W. Sadler

Guest
Just finished filling my engin

Just finished filling my engine with "easy going RV and boat anti freeze" and I have a question. I took the hoses off of my t-stat housing and poured the anti-freeze into each of the manifolds. I filled the port side manifols first and it took around 1/4-1/3 of a gallon and I stopped when I heard it comming out the exaust. Did the same with the starboard side manifold and it seemed to take less antifreeze and it did NOT come out the exaust. Is this normal? Should I be concerned about anything?

ps- the anti freeze that I am using is pink and claims to have burst protection down to -50 and I tried to use a regular anti-freeze tester (automotive)to test itjust out of curiosity and it did not work. Is this normal?
 
"I would open the valves on en

"I would open the valves on engine block to make sure anti freeze made it down into the block. If you drained the engine to start with, there should be no problem. If you didn't drain it first, the anti freeze will be diluted in the block. If you have a heat exchanger located on the top of the engine in the back, make sure that is empty too."
 
I did drain everything first.

I did drain everything first. I also filled the block first and if my memory is right it took about 1&1/3-1/2 gallons. Does this sound right? I do have a p/s cooler and i drained it by pulling the fresh water intake hose off my pump and then I reconnected it and took the hose off the t-stat housing that goes to the pump and held it up high and poured anit freze slowly into it until I heard it comming out the back. Will this be ok? Also- are you sure my manifolds are ok? please explain what is happening with them. Thanks for the help.
 
Sounds like a fine job. As lon

Sounds like a fine job. As long as you are sure all the water was out of the block you are good to go.
Having the pink crap coming out the exhaust is ok. It's a sign the manifolds are protected.

I do crack all fittings just to make sure I see pink drain out a little then close them.
I find this is better than seeing red come spring if a part was frozen & broke.

Power steering cooler will be ok as long as you poured a little RV pink in the feed line.

Guess it's time for the snow toys.
 
Why would only one manifold le

Why would only one manifold let the anit freeze go through the exaust? That is what im curious about. Thanks
 
"I'm assuming you are putt

"I'm assuming you are putting enough in to fill up the manifold and go up into the riser to go out the exhaust? Don't know if it's possible but what about the exhaust flapper in the Y pipe, could be stiff enough and sealing well enough to stop your antifreze?"
 
"is this BAD? Should I let it

"is this BAD? Should I let it worry me or should I put her in storage and be happy? ("Don't worry, be happy")"
 
"If you drained the manifold f

"If you drained the manifold first, I have to remove the rubber cap at the back end and when I pour a bit of antifreeze into the front hose all I care is that I see some antfreeze coming out the back, I don't worry about the riser or the exhaust so I think you should be just fine."
 
"It is a BAD idea to put water

"It is a BAD idea to put water or AF into an exhaust system when the engine is not running. (There's a delicate pressure balance going on inside the risers, with exhaust gas keeping the water out.)

First of all, I would immediately pull all the spark plugs and wheel it over on the starter; and if you see any AF shoot out the cylinders, the motor needs to be fired up and run (or else!)

Secondly, why didn't you start the engine and run the coolant through? After pulling the t-stats out, I too fill the block with AF, but I then run the motor while feeding the AF into the raw water pump. Last of all comes installing new t-stats and buttoning her up.

Jeff"
 
What if my clyinders have no A

What if my clyinders have no AF residue in them.... am I still ok? Do I still need to start my engine? What if I dont? How could AF get in my cylinders throught the exaust manifold water jacket?
 
"i've been doing that for

"i've been doing that for 15 years and never had a problem and know several others at my marina that do the same thing. Here is a link to a winterizing guide written by a mechanic that tells you to do the same thing. Just scroll about half way down to where he starts talking about antifreeze. There is also another guide on another popular forum written by another mechanic saying the same thing, mind you both will say if everything is drained properley no antifreeze is required but if want to feel absolutley safe then this is what to do.
http://www.brownsmarina.com/tech-winter-inboard.html"
 
"I personally think his using

"I personally think his using toxic anti-freeze is bad advice. Using -100 F RV type is fine although it's still toxic in high concentrations, just in a different way. I know people who have drained and winterized thousands of motors and didn't have problems. If it's done right, it's not a problem."
 
"You guys can winterize anyway

"You guys can winterize anyway you want, just keep one thing in mind: Anywhere water remains (since you didn't run the motor and pump AF through) is a place where water will freeze, expand and wreck something. Take the hose coming up from a raw water pump, for example. It's still full of water and unprotected.

On AF getting into the motor, since it wasn't running, IF the AF doesn't spill into the exhaust manifolds--that are not spewing exhaust to keep the AF out--then you're okay. If not, AF will flow down into the manifold and enter any open exhaust valve. The result is AF and water residue in those cylinders all winter long. Yikes!

Seriously, why would anyone take a chance when running the AF through eliminates all of these dangers? That's why all professional marinas do it that way.

Jeff"
 
I agree with Jeff on this one.

I agree with Jeff on this one. Leaving an engine dry is asking for trouble. A block is much better off having antifreeze in it than nothing at all. Air is what lets a block start rusting for one thing and you can never be 100% sure all the water is out of a boat block.
What one may think is an empty cooling system could still have water in it and it doesn't take much to break a block or manifold.
It's my opinion that there should always be antifreeze added to all cooling system parts even if only enough to protect it from any water that was missed.
This is why I always let some antifreeze out the drains until I know I have enough the part will not break.

But what the heck I guess the marina's can always use the extra income from replacing the engines of the folks that do leave the block too be what they believe is empty.

One can only hope that people use the correct antifreeze in their boats. By this time there is no excuse for using an automotive type of antifreeze in a boat. The crap cost more than the pink stuff so why use it anyway.
 
As I said in the firs post- Wh

As I said in the firs post- When I filled my manifolds with AF I filled through the hoses that go to the t-stat housing. Only one manifold filled up enough to have water come out the exaust. The other manifold seemed to take much less AF and no AF came out the exaust. I still dont know why this is happening and if anyone could tell me what is happening on the inside of the manifolds that would be great. Tomorow I am going to pull the spark plugs and do a little inspection. If AF is in one of the cylinders will it come out when the spark plug is removed or will it have leaked past the rings? What should I look for as evidence that AF is in the cylinders? Will a borescope be useful? I did the winterization about a week and 1/2 ago. Im starting to get worried because of what was said above. Please help me to understand what is going on and how severe my problem is if there is a problem. PLEASE HELP ME!!!
 
W:

Can the motor be started


W:

Can the motor be started up (ie: are the batteries available?) That would put to rest all of your concerns.

Jeff

PS: Coolant will slowly leak past the rings overnight.
 
"The boat is not put in the bu

"The boat is not put in the building yet and the batteries are still in the boat. What will starting it do for me and when I start it what do I do? What do I do after I have done this? Do I fog the engine down redrain the block and refill everything with anti freeze, ect.....?"
 
"I'd add the pink stuff to

"I'd add the pink stuff to the raw water pump, run for about 15 seconds, and fog it at the same time.
That shoiuld do it.

Jeff"
 
How do I make sure I did not a

How do I make sure I did not allow any AF to enter the cylinder(s)? Do I start the motor on muffs and water and covert to AF or just muffs and AF to begin with? Can someone please tell me why my only one of my manifolds allowd AF to exit out exaust and the other did not?
Thanks
 
"Fastjeff....I think you'v

"Fastjeff....I think you've scared the hell out of this poor guy and you've got him running around doing all kinds of things and causing needless worry and stress for him. Here is a piece from another licensed marine mechanic that posts all the time over in iboats.com maybe you should post your theories over there and see what everyone has to say about them. There is also a link to his entire winterizing post for your viewing pleasure.

" If you are one of those that must use antifreeze instead of just draining, for whatever reason, you can fill the block and manifolds with a 50/50 water/antifreeze mix through the hoses to the manifolds and coolers and removing the thermostat and pouring antifreeze into the engine block. Many of the RV type antifreeze do not have corrosion inhibitors in them because they are meant to be used in the domestic water system. "

http://forums.iboats.com/bbBoard.cgi?a=viewthread;fid=24;gtid=1184034"
 
".."....I think you've

".."....I think you've scared the hell out of this poor guy "

I agree, and I apologize.

W: If you spin the engine over on the starter, noting if it spins over smoothly (with the coil wire pulled, so it can't start), that will tell you if there's liquid in the cylinders. If okay, then insert the coil wire and fire it up (with Pink Stuff coming into the raw water inlet). If it runs okay, fog it and shut her down for the season. All will be well then. Trust me, and I again aplogize for mucking this issue up.

Bob: Agreed on the lack of rust inhibitors in the Pink Stuff--I guess that's why some brands cost a bunch more. Where the Pink Stuff is, though, and even without rust inhibitors, there will not be air, and that's a good thing. Agreed?

Jeff"
 
"Agree that some pink has inhi

"Agree that some pink has inhibtors and some doesn't, need to read the label to be sure and I'm sure your right about it affecting the cost.

Getting back to Mr. Sadler and his problem (I still don't believe he has one)
Any time you have the boat out for a run and shut it off those manifolds are full of water, I know this to be true because I can remove the drain and tons of water comes out and yet none of that water sitting there ever enters the cylinders. So I don't understand why the concern with what he has done, I have done or countless others by just draining that water and replacing it with some kind of an antifreeze mixture. Do you you drain your manifolds after every use to prevent water from entering the engine?
Sorry to be beating a dead horse to death but I don't think Mr. Sadler has a problem. I'm not saying there is anything wrong with the way you do your winterizing as I also know several folks that do it that way at my marina but I also know several that do it my way and there has never been the kind of problem you indicate will happen."
 
"He might not, but consider th

"He might not, but consider this: When you shut off the engine the water pump stops at the same time. Not so when pouring AF in.

I too have seen the water pour our when I do my yearly drain session, along with the rust particles!

Jeff"
 
One more question- When I pull

One more question- When I pull the plugs to check for AF it will exit the hole in a mist wont it? Most all of the AF will be past the rings and into the crank case. Will the AF damage anything inside the crankcase? I also want to squirt some regular engine oil in each of the cylinders while ive got the plugs out and spin the engine over with the starter a few times to prevent as much corrosion as possible. Any objections? This is my first boat (big one) and belive it or not I am only 17. Mr. Sadler may be the proper term but sadly I dont even have a girl friend- hahahaha
THANKS
 
"You soon will when they disco

"You soon will when they discover you own a boat!

I'd just pull the plugs, wheel it over to blow any water (if any), then start her up. You can check the oil last of all, to see if it's a vanilla milkshake consistence(but I doubt it).

Good luck!

Jeff"
 
"Jeff,

You suggested runnin


"Jeff,

You suggested running AF through the system by feeding at raw water pump. Do I need a big tank of AF, and dip the drive unit(water inlet) into it? Please advise.

Thanks,
George"
 
Muffs work better. You hook t

Muffs work better. You hook the line from the bottom of the tank you have to buy to the muffs and fire it up. Turn it off when the pink stuff comes out the exhaust. Shouldn't take more than a gallon or two.

Jeff
 
"Jeff,

Thanks for your advi


"Jeff,

Thanks for your advice. If engine only runs few seconds for this, the engine block won't be warm enough to open the thermostat and circulate the AF through it. Do I need to pull the large diameter hose at the thermostat housing, and fill it up with AF? Also there will be some air trapped in thermostat housing when reconnecting the hose, any suggestions?

Thanks again.

George"
 
"I can't believe this. Two

"I can't believe this. Two weeks and this boat is not winterized yet.
Do you guy's work for NASA? It's not a rocket guy's.
You had it right the first time. Quit trying to make something out of nothing.

NO AUTOMOTIVE ANTIFREEZE! You can not get it out of the engine without it (A) Hitting the ground. (B) Entering the water ways.
Don't care if the pink stuff has rust protection or not. Do not use the automotive type antifreeze.

You could pour ten freaking gallons of antifreeze into the exhaust manifold water jacket and it will not enter the cylinders! It can't happen unless the manifold has a hole between the water jacket and the exhaust side of the manifold at the exhaust port level.
The manifold will fill up before the antifreeze can make it over the riser. When filling the riser it will just dump the stuff out the exhaust. Not back into the engine.
Third, How did this AF in the cylinders crap get started?

Just drain the thing out and add some antifreeze,storage fog,bag the carb and exhaust ports. Check the drive unit to make sure no water is in the oil and put it away.

At the rate you are going it will be spring before you get done. There's nothing wrong with the engine quit screwing with it."
 
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