Winterization without starting engine

"Is it possible to winterize a

"Is it possible to winterize an AQ130c without starting the engine? I was thinking about pulling the thermostat and pumping rv antifreeze through the engine, seems like it should work but don't want to risk serious damage.

I did not get my boat in the water this year because I was trying to fix the engines. During that process I ran water through them, but now they are not starting again, and I am running out of time to work on them before real cold sets in.

Thanks,
Dave"

"Dave, I'd drain all &#34

"Dave, I'd drain all "low points" of the raw water system... be sure to probe the opening with a wire to remove any debris.
If these engine run, I'd then do a 6-10 second dry start with the sea water pump impeller removed.
It will not harm anything in this short order, but will blow any water out of any cylinders that may be somewhat wet..... it will also clear the exhaust manifold.
Again.... in this short order, it will not harm anything if the impeller has been removed.

Removing the impellers for the winter is a good idea anyway.

Do the antifreeze via the thermostat opening if you want to, but only after completely draining down all "low points" of the raw water system.
Draining again .... even after you do the antifreeze, is most important. This eliminates any chance of residual raw water that may have found a place to hide.

In 6-10 seconds you can also fog the engine!
Also, vertical cylinders (as with the AQ 130 inline 4) better allow for oiling each cylinder if fogging is not an option. Just be sure to turn it over several times after oiling them.

Your call!

."

"Ricardo, in lieu of fogging,

"Ricardo, in lieu of fogging, what do you recommend for oiling the cylinders? Thanks."

"[b]"Ricardo, in lieu of f

""Ricardo, in lieu of fogging, what do you recommend for oiling the cylinders? Thanks."

Bob, I don't particularly like the idea of "in lieu of fogging". Fogging, IMO, is superior! This is just my take on this..... and I believe that several factors play into it;

If you have an engine with vertical cylinders, and with "non-dish" type pistons, you can use engine oil (or oils intended for this) through the spark plug port, followed by rolling the engine over several times.
With this, we can coat the cylinder walls as the piston travels up/down the cylinder......., but it offers little for any valve/stem/seat protection!

"V" or "canted" cylinder engines cannot take advantage of this (gravity pulls the oil to the low side).
Add dished pistons to the mix, and the oiling of a cylinder in this type of engine becomes much less effective as if it were "Fogged".
(Fogging is dynamically performed and likely offers a more thorough film of protection if done correctly!)

Anything you do may be better than making no attempt at all!
Squirt some oil into the cylinders, turn it over if you can, etc.

This is simply my take and perspective on this! Others may have some great ideas that would counter this. Don't know.
"