Engine stallswonbt start after being fine for 10 minutes

"Hi,

I have a Glastron GT18

"Hi,

I have a Glastron GT185, fairly new (50 hours), and it had a problem this weekend that i've not see before.

I've hunted around on the forums, and it seems this problem is reasonably common, but i wanted to start a new thread in case the particulars of this engine are different, etc.

It's a 4.3L mercruiser, and we had it out all day saturday with no probs. Filled her to the brim in the evening, and the next day, warmed her up for 10 minutes, and then she simply stalled. Wouldn't turn over at all, occasionally coughed, but nothing for about 1 hour of attempting to start it.

So walked it back along the beach, got the trailer out, ready to pull her out, and tried it once more - and she started fine and ran for the rest of the day.

I have seen comments about fuel venting etc, but we had tried turning it over a few times with the fuel cap off and it didn't seem to solve the problem.

One thing that is different on this particular day is that we hadn't flushed the engine the night beore. Normally we fill up, take her back and run on the hose for 5 minutes. This time we didn't as we were taking her out less than 12 hours later.

We're not too familiar with the engine yet, so don't know our way around it, but could try some things if we knew what we were looking for.

Is it possible that this was a simple case of fuel tank getting stuck with a vacuum, or a kinked/damaged vent somewhere or could it be more sinister?

any help greatly appreciated.

thanks,"

"What year, EFI or TKS?"

"What year, EFI or TKS?"

"it's a fuel injection. no

"it's a fuel injection. not the very latest more powerful one, but a 2008 190 bhp."

""...warmed her up for 10

""...warmed her up for 10 minutes, and then she simply stalled."

When did it stall? Doing nothing but idling, when you put it in gear, after putting it in gear and then pushed the throttle forward, after 3 beers? More data please. Is it port injected w/6 separate injectors or throttle body injection like a carb w/2 big injectors on top?"

"ok - so we ran around for abo

"ok - so we ran around for about 5-10 minutes to warm her up, and then got a skier out. Just as we were turning the engine off to sort ropes out etc, it spluttered on the 'off'. Next time we started it up, it idled for about 20 seconds and then stalled. After that it would not start at all.

Probably tried to turn it over about 50 times over the course of an hour, sometimes would cough a few times, mostly nothing. Occasionally would kick in, only to die immediately.

One occasion had it fast idling for about 5 seconds at about 4000rpm, and it died from there.

So i wonder whether leaving it for 10 minutes whilst we dragged it back was enough to cure the problem, because one of the next times we tried it, it started up and didn't look back.

engine is throttle body injection.

thanks"

Sounds like a contaminated fue

Sounds like a contaminated fuel issue. Start by changing the fuel filters and cleaning the flame arrestor. Add one can of SeaFoam per 10 gal. of fuel to the fuel tank. Run the boat w/the blower on at all times.

"yes, kind of what we thought

"yes, kind of what we thought initially. We've ordered a new fuel filter, and will look into the flame arrestor.

can't see anywhere to get Sea Foam in the UK - so have emailed them.

What's with running the blower constantly? I thought it was just to ventilate the fumes if it's been stored for a while. Is it a heat issue?"

"The blower should be run cont

"The blower should be run continuously to ventilate any/all fumes and carbon monoxide along w/unwanted engine heat which can cause the fuel to boil when shut down for a short period.

Find an alternative to SeaFoam locally. It's a fuel conditioner that preserves the fuel, cleans the fuel system and injectors, removes carbon from the valves and combustion chambers. Don't use octane boosters or enhancers; they will foul the plugs and cause carbon buildup."

"ok - so i have now had this b

"ok - so i have now had this boat checked <u>and fixed</u>! (had the problem again, and this time ended up having to call the coast guard!)

Here's what was wrong:

Apparently, there is a small switch on the gear linkage on the top of the engine. When you change into gear, a small piece of plastic temporarily presses this switch, which drops the revs down by about 300rpm to soften the load on the clutch, and to make the gear engage more smoothly. Anyway, this switch on ours was sticky, and was getting stuck down, particularly after having engaged reverse (which is what had just happened on both occasions of the fault). So, after having got stuck down, the engine would usually stall, and then would not be able to get enough gas through to start up again. Eventually, it would seem, it would pop back up again – and then everything is fine.

So the switch has been replaced, and everything is as good as gold. Pretty annoying, but great to know that the problem has now gone."

"What that switch is, is a &#3

"What that switch is, is a "interuptor switch".

What its function is is to momenteraly interupt the ignition system when shifting OUT of gear.

The way the outdrive gear engagement works in a Alpha there is to much pressure on the gears to seperate easily when shifting out of gear.

The "short" shift cable attached to the junction plate is the cable that goes to the outdrive.
When there is any resistance on this cable it causes the V notch bracket that is attached to that short cable to move and activate the micro switch. This causes enough dissruption in the forces keeping the gears together and allows them to seperate."

Glad your fix was something si

Glad your fix was something simple. That is a coomen problem either a bad switch or just out of adjustment.