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Drive and motor ID

K

kalsobrook

New member
I have a VP Drive P/N 850676-8

I have a VP Drive P/N 850676-8012 s/n: 2225971
The motor is a 5.7 SBC based on casting numbers on the block. There is a plate on block stating "Made for VolvoPenta by GM" I can't find any other ID plates on motor to ID which VP series motor it is.
The shift cover is also missing on the drive. I think it is a 280. How can I positively ID the motor and drive so I can order the correct factory service manuals. I need to replace the water connector and hose above the exhaust bellows and found my Seloc manual useless.
The boat is a 1983 Ciera Command Bridge.
 
"Check in the block above the

"Check in the block above the starter, it should state the model of the package you have installed.

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"This is the water connector &

"This is the water connector (aftermarket)

http://www.marineengine.com/newparts/part_details.php?pnum=SIE18-2778&returntopa ge=sierra_marine/sierra00826.htm

This is the hose

http://www.marineengine.com/newparts/part_details.php?pnum=SIE18-2775&returntopa ge=sierra_marine/sierra00826.htm

Replacing those parts is simple. You just need an Allen wrench (3/16") and a screwdriver. Remove the hose clamp from the transom shield, the remove the two Allen screws, get the old gasket out, coat the new gasket with Perfect Seal (or Loctite sealing compound or similar) and install in reverse order. Make sure you tighten the screws well, as the o-ring side of the gasket has to make a good seal around the water tube."
 
Thanks for the help. Glad to h

Thanks for the help. Glad to hear the water connector and hose replacement isn't a huge dis-assembly job. I used muffs on the lower drive for the first time and couldn't get water up to the raw water pump(yep...was so excited finally getting the motor fired up on first attempt that I probably destroyed the new impeller I just put in). After plugging the bottom hole noticed that water was leaking down onto the exhaust bellows from the water connector.It is badly corroded and probably has a hole in it somewhere.
When replacing the starter last week I didn't notice an ID plate where your arrow is pointing. I will check again.
 
"Ken, be sure to notice that t

"Ken, be sure to notice that this water neck "beaded gasket" is directional. The bead goes down against the pivot tube in order to seal. Grease this side of the gasket.

Also, best to use the Volvo OEM manual. There are some errors in the Seloc and Clymers.

If you are going to install new drive bellows, this would be the time to change the water neck fitting.... the access is much better with the transmission off and out of your way..... IMO, that is!

TIP: if you suspect even the least amount of corrosion, apply some heat to the suspension fork as to warm the threads before trying to remove the two little screws.... again, IMO here.

TIP # 2: If no history of the PDS (primary drive shaft) bearings having been replaced, I'd strongly encourage you to do so.
On the V-8's, it does involve either removing or sliding the engine forward for access, but the parts are inexpensive relative to the cost of a new Flywheel Cover due to bearing failure resulting in a broken bellows snout.
I replace several of these just about every year.

You will find that this engine/drive are amoung the easiest to work on.

."
 
"At this point in time I am on

"At this point in time I am only replacing the water neck fitting (both exhaust and drive bellows look in good condition). It looks like very limited space available to get to the two screws with an allen wrench. Should I try and remove the outer exhaust bellows first to get more room? I am trying to avoid taking the shift cable out, etc. It appears the drive needs to be in the full up position to provide enough space to work in there. Proceeding cautiously.....please advise."
 
Got it El.....my big hands and

Got it El.....my big hands and lot's of restrained patience. Also used some heat as Ricardo suggested on the suspension fork to get one of the screws loose enough to turn with an allen wrench. I was always right on the verge of stripping out the head of the allen screws due to the tough angle to get the allen wrench to set perpendicular on the head of the screw. It took
to different lengths of allen wrench and a last minute squeeze with needle nose Vise Grips to get the stubborn one out.
 
"Ken, I'm glad you got the

"Ken, I'm glad you got them out. Now, make sure you coat them (especially the threads) with Perfect Seal, or Loctite Sealing Compound, or Permatex Aviation Gasket, or similar. This way, you will have no problem removing them next time.
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