Safety Switch

"Hi all, Suddenly my 1988, 350

"Hi all, Suddenly my 1988, 350 CID, 260 hp won't crank over. Both batteries are fully charged. When I turn the key to start there is no clicking or anything at all. Last week I noticed that once or twice I had to move the shifter handle a couple of times to get the engine to crank. I think it's the safety switch in the shifter box on the dash. Does anyone know how to test it and or replace the switch if bad? Thank you, Bob"

"If you have the surface mount

"If you have the surface mount control and can remove the cover to get to things, they are pretty easy. With the cover removed, look for two yellow-red striped wires going to a mini-switch. When in neutral, those two wires should make a closed connection, when not in neutral, the wires should be open.

sometimes, the witch mounting screw come loose and the switch arm looses contact with its cam. This will give a false "in -gear' state.

The other styles are handled similarly, at least electrically. the access part is more difficult. You can always look for the "crank" at the slave solenoid using a test light (same yellow-red striped wire)."

"makomark, If the wires are to

"makomark, If the wires are touching one another in neutral the thing is adjusted correctly? What if it is in the correct position and still fails to work, is time for a new switch? Thanks, Bob"

"Bob:

I haven't seen yo

"Bob:

I haven't seen your control so I can only provide feedback on your inputs. The ones I've seen didn't have the wires touching. In N, there should be continuity between the two, no continuity in either F or R.

If you can short the two wires together and get the engine to crank, it could be time for a new switch. If they are shorted and it won't crank, check for 12V with a test light at the 'short'. If no light, check the ignition switch. If the light is on, its down in the solenoids or the starter."

"Makoman, I just got back from

"Makoman, I just got back from working on the boat. A friend (mechanic) looked at the neutral switch and said it's all brand new! I then jumped the ignition switch and nothing. I pulled it out and wire brushed the three terminals on the back and reconnected it and guess what, it actually works fine! Now if I get my "over heating" and "lack of top end RPMS" straightened out I'll be in good shape. Thanks again, Bob"