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Water in oil

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96rinker

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my question is where to start

my question is where to start with diag. It is a new boat for us a 1996 Rinker captiva 232 w/ 7.4 ltr and bravo drive. We (me and the wife) purchased it 2 weeks ago took it out last weekend for a few hours when we got back I cheked the oil and it's milky... any help would be great.

Thank You
 
"I think I would start with th

"I think I would start with the previous owner, especially if it's a dealer. My guess is they knew the motor was shot when they sold it to you."
 
bought it from an individual..

bought it from an individual.. The boat had sat for a year but had been winterized before hand true or not I don't know? supposedly the engine has been rebuilt showing 183 on the hour meter. seemed to run fine Sunday when we took it out. If it is a bad engine I'm stuck with it just kind of wondering the direction I need to go

Thanks
Jason
 
Go to your attorney asap. Hav

Go to your attorney asap. Have him write a letter to the sellers and put them on notice. He'll know what to say.

Pull the spark plugs and look for water evidence in the cylinders. If it is evident then start by removing the exhaust on the bad side and test for cracks in the water jacket.

No water in the cylinders; cracked block from none or poor winterization. Check all of the brass casting or "freeze" plugs. Any loose or new plugs? New plugs means they had prior knowledge.
 
"[i]where to start with diag.[

"where to start with diag.
block the cooling hoses to the manifolds with 5/8" bolts and clamps, supply regulated air pressure to the water supply to the thermostat housing (removed from the supply from the sterndrive obviously) pressurize the engine's cooling system to 10 or 15 psi - listen for the leaks."
 
If it is a manifold or riser..

If it is a manifold or riser...Please correct me if I'm wrong but I should be able to hear it in the exhaust correct?.....Has through hull exhaust

Thank You

Jason
 
Do not do anything until you s

Do not do anything until you seek legal advice!!!

Then ask what to do next from attorney.

most likely it will be bring it to a full service marina and let them diagnose the problem and how much it will cost to repair.

Also could bring it to a marina now and get a diagonoses and a quote to bring to attorney.

If you mess with it no one will be able to say it was NOT you!!!
 
"[i]If it is a manifold or ris

"If it is a manifold or riser...Please correct me if I'm wrong but I should be able to hear it in the exhaust correct?.....Has through hull exhaust

hear what? a crack? no. Nothing audible about that. Pressure test the block first. If it isn't the block, then suspect exhaust.

Frozen exhaust manifolds always leak externally more than internally. Often, they only leak externally."
 
How milky we talking?

It mi

How milky we talking?

It might just need an oil change.

Wouldn't be the first motor rain water has leaked into.
Wouldn't be the first motor with condensation.

Is it blowing milkshake out the breathers?
 
"More like a darn frosty....pu

"More like a darn frosty....pulled the plugs #6 (right bank) water poured out, #'s 5 and 7 showed signs of being wet. in the process of blocking off and pressure testing.

Obivousley you can't hear a crack just wondering if I would be able to hear hissing from the manifold.

Thanks
Jason"
 
[i]wondering if I would be abl

wondering if I would be able to hear hissing from the manifold
no - sounds normal with cracks

water pouring out of 6 not good.
manifold riser issues tend to fill the back two cylinders first.
 
"Just had the same issue with

"Just had the same issue with a 350 mag MPI inboard. Same side too. Most likely, you have a bad exhaust riser on the right side. If so, the water could have leaked into the engine while fushing it just as easily as it could while operating it at the lake. Was it a saltwater boat? My 2003 was and I flushed it religiously, however, salt and cast iron never mix. If you hear the air leaking in the exhaust, you may as well prepare to drop some cash on new manifolds and risers. If only one side is leaking into the cylinders the other is not far off. Better safe than sorry. Unfortunately used boats are "As Is". Simply drain the bad oil and and change out the filter the refill. Don't run it again until the leaking manifold(s) are swapped."
 
"I encourage you to get the &#

"I encourage you to get the "milk shake" out of the block ASAP. If nothing else, pull the plugs and put some fogging oil in the cylinders and drain & refill the oil pan."
 
Boat was mainly used in fresh

Boat was mainly used in fresh water. can anyone tell me exactly how a riser works?...And I thought my ex-wife was a pain.
 
"Well I hate to say it Jason b

"Well I hate to say it Jason but you should've posted on this board before you bought the boat. I know, it's buyer beware and hindsight is 20/20 and all that but there are a few simple tests that would've prevented you from buying this boat. Just curious how much did you pay for it? I'm guessing around $20K.

I think I would see a lawyer, if he OKS it then take the boat to a mercruiser service dealer, find out what exactly is wrong with it, how much it will cost to fix it, and then have the attorney send a letter possibly having the previous owner covering half the repair bill or buy the boat back from you or what ever he suggests. It might be something as simple as a head gasket which you could probably afford to pay for although you shouldn't have to. I don't have confidence it's an exhaust manifold, it's hard to get water in your oil except through a bad gasket, cracked head or block, or corroded out heat exchanger. Anyway good luck I hope things work out for you.

BTW I hope this isn't another craigslist story, I'm running out of faith in using that board anymore. Too many schysters!"
 
"The risers are where the raw

"The risers are where the raw water is pumped from the engine cooling maze into the down stream part of the exhaust. Thru-hull and thru-hub. The water travels from the water jackets inside the manifolds into the water jackets on the risers then it drains into the rubber part of the exhaust(bellows). If the water passage in the riser breaks through into the exhaust port, it can allow water to pass into the heads and through the piston rings and ultimately water up the oil. It's not a death sentence to the block if it's drained and fixed. I had the back 2 cylinders on the right bank fill with water too and it is good as new with new manifolds/risers, plugs and oil."
 
"Got a pretty good deal in the

"Got a pretty good deal in the boat, she was part of a nasty divorce (the) being his exwife kept the boat out of his possesion for almost two years. To make a long story short he is selling off everything to cover the settlement. I got the boat for $5,000. So no I'm not going to complain or call in the sharks. My goal is to get it up and running while keeping my fingers crossed.
I'm just new to the water circulation on a boat engine and the typical things that can go wrong. everyones help on here is greatly appreciated and if I havent said it before thank you

Jason"
 
After you change the oil and f

After you change the oil and filter disconnect the water inlet hose at the T'stat and direct it into a bucket. Hook up the water hose and muffs so the impeller won't burn up and run the engine to distribute fresh oil for 30-45 seconds and no longer.

A riser is just an extension of the exhaust manifold to put the elbow higher above the waterline. Cooling water does flow through it as Jason stated.

If you replace the exhaust system stay away from GLM; too many problems about them solved here. Nov. - Feb. will get you the best prices on OEM parts. Watch eBay for new "take-offs" where someone bought a complete drop-in engine and did not use the new exhaust. I've seen a 6 piece set for under $500 "Buy It Now" and it goes quick.

There is a USA aftermarket mfg. but I can't remember their name.
 
"I would do what Guy says, cha

"I would do what Guy says, change the oil and filter and run it again. If you still have water in the oil you might start the process of finding out where it's coming from. Water will not just get past the rings unless the rings are missing and then you will be rebuilding the motor anyway. If compressed air and fuel ignited to explode won't get past the rings niether will water that's what the rings are designed to do is keep stuff inside the cylinder even under pressure.

Worst case scenario if you have to buy a rebuilt long block you still won't be out much because of the good deal you got."
 
"Possible problem found, betwe

"Possible problem found, between thunder storms today my curiosity got the best of me and I pulled the exhaust manifolds. heavy would be an understatement...What I found is water sitting in the bottom of both (where only exhaust should be) The manifolds actually look very good with no scale or rust same with the risers. Is it possible that the gaskets between the manifold and riser was bad? The area is questionable and there is some mild pitting. I read some where they can be checked with acetone? if true and no leaks I will send them to the local machine shop to be trued up. Ideas, suggestions?

Thanks

Jason"
 
"Jason:

Stand the manifolds

"Jason:

Stand the manifolds upright, plug the water inlets and fill the water jackets w/water and see if they leak. If needed you can get some antifreeze dye at an autoparts store to help you see any minute cracks.

Getting the parts trued is a good idea. Gaskets could very well be the pproblem. Check the exhaust shutters while the mans. are off. They are 15 yrs. old and easy to replace w/mans. out of the way."
 
"shutters? what shutters and w

"shutters? what shutters and where would they have been? I did drain the oil, still draining actually. filled the cylinders with oil and turned it over several times"
 
"The shutters are like check-v

"The shutters are like check-valves, in the exhaust plumbing that the exhaust elbows connected to. You may have to remove the rubber hose connectors to see them. Look for #7 here:
http://www.mercruiserparts.com/Show_Pictures3.asp?dnbr=821723%2092&ivar=images/C RUISER/821723.92/24.png&inbr=1621&bnbr=250&bdesc=EXHAUST+SYSTEM+%287%2E4L+BRAVO% 29

If you think those are heavy, try the old crusader "log" style....almost 75# more, each.

ps - when you get done fixing it yourself, you'll still be better off, in many respects, than getting "counsel" involved."
 
They are still in the old part

They are still in the old part of the exhaust.. This boat has through hull exhaust manifold..riser..and what I'm guessing to be a muffler and then it exits out the side. do I need to keep looking.


at 75# more they need thier own floatation device and a cherry picker to hold them in place so you could put them back on
 
"Ok, Thanks Guy... Just got do

"Ok, Thanks Guy... Just got done making some block off plates for the manifolds now I can add some water and pressure test"
 
"The through hull is an import

"The through hull is an important bit of info. I would've guessed your flappers were gone and the water in the exhaust ports was a result. It's still hard to get water into your oil that way but you can hydrolock the motor easy enough and bend some internal parts.

Your boat in good shape, would be on the market here for $15K to $20K so if you paid $5K for it and had to buy a rebuilt long block w/warranty for $3K and new manis and risers for whatever you can get them for, you will still come out ahead. And it's alwys nice to know you have a new motor."
 
"Jason

strongly recommend y

"Jason

strongly recommend you get hold of workshop manual they have some good diagrams of water flow thru the block manifolds and risers etc.. really helped me fault find my cooling system...Im concerned with the water in oil..bad exhaust cant do that, unless water in cylinders is gettin past the rings????.....maybe..
consider the following.
1/ bad head gasket
2/ cracked head or block
3/Rusted out inlet manifold (below Thermstat housing)dumps water straight into valley...bad but easy to fix.
4/ rusted out exhaust and hole in piston. (unlikely)
all of the above...(very unlikely) Keep working on the pressure testing of the cooling system, do the block and heads with the ex manifolds off. Mark."
 
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