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Wonbt turn over

L

labman

New member
"Hey Guys;
First post, and I

"Hey Guys;
First post, and I have a problem. I did a search and did try a couple of the options posted.
History;
Bought a mid 70s. something or other boat from Vancouver Island (NO HULL ID NO MANU.)put it in the water this past week, it started and ran, well at home on the muffs, ran in the lake for about 3 Nms. then it quit, kept flooding itself out, long story short, I had the Carb, rebuilt, Needle and Seat were stuck and inside of carb looked like a cheap PIZZA!
Serial # on engine block comes up as a mid 70s. 250ci. 165hp. inline 6cyl. chev. Mercruiser.
I put the rebuilt carb. back on, turned the key and the motor tried to turn-over (Alt pulley advanced about 1/16th) then it just clicked. I switched the battery switch to the ALL position and still just clicked. I did a load test on both batteries, both showed good charge, ran 55amp AUTOMATIC charge through the batteries for 12hrs, retried to start motor, CLICK,CLICK. Pulled Spark-plugs, thinking that I may have washed the cyls. when it was flooding,poured Lucas Oil Treatment in the cyls. that I could, tried to turn the motor over, yup, just CLICKED!
As I had seen posted, REPLACED Selenoid, re-tightened every wire that I could find, CLICK CLICK. The motor seems to be trying to turn, as noted that the front pullies advance SLIGHTLY when I first hit the key, but then it seems that the starter just won't turn it over! The starter is engaging, so that would indicate to me that the Bendix is working, and it doesn't seem to kick out until I release the key.
Because of the front motor mount system, I have not been able to access the Harmonic Balancer/Crankshaft Pulley, to hand turn the motor, but it doesn't seem to be seized.
Any ideas about what could be going on?

Labman"
 
"Pulled Spark-plugs, thinking

"Pulled Spark-plugs, thinking that I may have washed the cyls. when it was flooding,poured Lucas Oil Treatment in the cyls. that I could, tried to turn the motor over, yup, just CLICKED!
Plugs out, still nothing but the Click!
Also just checked the Closed coolong system, the canister is empty, Oil level is still at the full mark, so that is another problem!"
 
"I replaced the #15A, I believ

"I replaced the #15A, I believe this is a 4 post Solenoid, I thought the round thing attached to the top of the starter, with the main power/ground and ign. wire attached to it was a Bendix?"
 
"A "Bendix" is a trade

"A "Bendix" is a trade name for an older style starter gear....I don't think they have been used for decades.

What you called a 4 post solenoid is more commonly called the slave solenoid. The round thing on top the starter is the starter solenoid.

If you cleaned and tightened both battery cable ends and replaced the slave solenoid, the starter solenoid or the starter itself are most likely. You can test the starter solenoid with a test light or just pull the whole assembly and take it to a shop to test it. I'd bet the disk in the solenoid is burnt."
 
Or the cummutator in your star

Or the cummutator in your starter is dirty and making poor electrical contact.
In either case the starter needs to come out and be serviced.

Rod
 
"Almost have the Starter out!

"Almost have the Starter out! What a pain, the bolt that holds the starter in, Port side bolt, which should be the easiest to get out, won't budge. I'll just keep at it! I tried to remove just the Solenoid, but the 2 litle mounting bolts are screwed, if/ when I get the starter off, I will have to slot them to remove, 9/32 is to small, 5/16 to big same with 7/8mm.
angry.gif

There is only about 2 3/4 \" between the starter and the side of the bilge, not a real good engineering job! Had to remove the closed cooling tube (San Juan) to get any wrenchs in at all!"
 
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