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Water in oil

dcpaxton

New member
Okay...I'm really frustrat

Okay...I'm really frustrated. Just dropped a new/rebuilt lm318 long block in my '69 Century Resorter. Took it out to the lake. Ran it for about 30 minutes and it died on me. Got it toed in and found water in all cylinders and crankcase. How could water get it? Do you think it is a bad motor? Could i have routed the cooling lines wrong? It cooled fine...Could it be the intake manifold??? I don't even know where to begin.
 
"Sorry but you are screwed.

"Sorry but you are screwed.

New Engine, sounds like a workmanship error?

Is it easier to do a complete top end in the water or in the shop?

Did it make a sound like...sudden stoppage?

Kinda like a bunch of knarly metal grinding sounds just before there was this, like thud?

I'm guessing, but you also have water in the case?

Oh man, let us hear what you found out! Bummer!"
 
"Yes, it did make the sounds a

"Yes, it did make the sounds as mentioned. What were those sounds? What damage is there? When i pulled the plugs and turned the engine over, everything sounded fine...turned over smooth. How did the water get in?

Any input would be GREATLY appreciated. I just don't know what to do. Is the motor trashed now?"
 
Possibly from leaky exhaust ma

Possibly from leaky exhaust manifolds. I'd pull them and pressure test them.

Jeff
 
"Unless the exhaust elbows and

"Unless the exhaust elbows and manifolds were relatively new (2 or 3 years), then anytime you need a long block, you should also replace the manifolds and elbows....no matter HOW good they look from the outside."
 
Wow! Great info. here...thank

Wow! Great info. here...thanks!

Do you think that there is internal engine damage or would it be okay to just order the manifolds and elbows...install....flush the engine really well...new oil/filter...new plugs and try again?
 
"Daymond – did you build-out t

"Daymond – did you build-out the long block or did a shop do it (transfer of old parts to new that is)?

Re: your question about the likelihood of internal damage……your answer to David’s questions about the sounds, etc. is a bit concerning. Given the craft, I’m guessing that 30 minute run has some “spirited” driving in it. If the issue existed, or was building, that entire time (or even a fraction of it), you may have built up a massive amount of internal engine pressure……because the crankcase “fluid level” (oil and water) continued to build with no way of evacuation. Not to mention that you’re less protected from the heat and friction as the oil becomes more diluted. If you heard metal……not good (could be oil pump gear teeth, could have been the seizure of any number of components).

My block cracked over the winter and, when I started it up this spring, it took only a minute or two for the milkshake to come out my dipstick tube……and that’s at idle on a garden hose. I subsequently stripped every last component off of that block and, although almost every part was salvageable there are some parts that are still coated in that mess. So, even if the engine survived, it’s going to take many, many rounds of flushing and each one is dangerous….because watery oil is still in the bearing areas, etc.. Some would argue that the only safe way of salvaging those internals is to yank the motor, pull it apart and clean each component (vs. running it, changing the oil, running it again, etc.).

The reason I ask about the build-out is because there’s some other things, besides exhaust, that could cause the water intrusion. If the intake manifold was not installed properly, and the water passages weren’t well sealed, you’ve got one of the largest and most direct passages into the crankcase.

There can be different symptoms between intrusion through the risers vs. the manifold. When going through the risers, you’re getting water going down through the cylinders themselves. If it’s a slower or isolated leak, you might notice the engine performing poorly in advance of it shutting down…..from the affected cylinders misfiring (or not at all). A direct crankcase intrusion (i.e., intake, cracked block, etc.) can allow the engine to run normally (seemingly) because the piston rings are still protecting the combustion chambers. So, these those types of intrusions can often end in a more abrupt/sudden failure (friction, pressure, etc.).

I feel for you man…..especially with everything involved in dropping in a new motor. I hope you can salvage it. Keep us posted."
 
"I wouldnt freak out about the

"I wouldnt freak out about the motor yet. Check the manifolds for leaks: as other say this is a common leak path, and eventually, all manifolds will leak and need replacement. Mine did this spring, and I got similar signs as you describe. But I fogged the engine good with oil, and put on new manifolds, and everything was fine.
A compression test will also reveal if you blew the head gasket (or if it was mis-installed and leaking). That's another common cause.

The nasty noises: often it's just from the oil+water over filling the oil pan and getting whipped up into foam by the crank, which then gets into the valve lifters, and they start clattering. If you stop the water leak, and do an oil change, it calms down. And it might take a few changes and a few running hours to get all the water out. (30-40 minutes at 3000 rpm)

Unless oil/water is literally coming right up out the dipstick, you probably didn't crack the block. Check manifolds and head gasket first."
 
"RE: " a few changes and a

"RE: " a few changes and a few running hours to get all the water out. (30-40 minutes at 3000 rpm)"

For the first oil change, I'd make that 30 seconds at idle...(change filter also) and depending on how milky that drained out oil is after the first change, maybe 30 seconds for the second change as well."
 
Id rig up a primer bulb and sk

Id rig up a primer bulb and skiny hose to get all the water/oil out of the pan through the drain plug hole
 
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