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Bubbles in Exhaust Pipes of 318

tweed

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"Having overheat problems. Si

"Having overheat problems. Situation is the freshwater cooled exhaust manfolds are set up for salt water cooled. They have no internal pipe and the gaskets only have a single hole at the top. Am loosing about a gallon for water every hour of running, then have low RPM cooling problems that go away when I run it high RPM..but only for a while, when enough water is lost then it overheats period.

So I did a cooling system pressure check, engine cold. Could not hold pressure, not even 5psi. I was getting bubbles out of my tail pipes.

Troubleshoot, what is going on? What has failed?
Note that I have no water in the oil and the plugs don't look steamed. Any ideas?

Tweed"
 
"RE:" the freshwater coole

"RE:" the freshwater cooled exhaust manfolds are set up for salt water cooled"

If I take this statement literally, then someone converted the previously freshwater cooled exhaust manifolds to raw water cooled???

IFSO...who and why do such a thing?"
 
"I read it another way, that t

"I read it another way, that this is an ordinary system.

If so, there's a gasket (and a plate, usually) that converts the raw water cooled manifolds to fresh water cooling. It's entirely possible that this plate has rotted out from the other side and is allowing coolant to leak into the exhaust.

You'll need to take the elbow/ riser off to see.

Jeff"
 
"I've gone ahead and bough

"I've gone ahead and bought a whole new exhaust set of parts. Bought three sets of each gasket too. On the port side, (new manifold), I pulled off the tailpipe and then pulled off the riser, cleaned & inspected both. They looked great, free of debris and only mild corrosion, gasket surfaces smooth, no cracks. Same result on the starboard side. Pulled it's manifold to replace it. Only thing I found was in the head, looks like a casting defect on the verticle web between the center two exhaust ports. Could be a crack, it has smooth edges like it's a defect. No water present, carbon, yes. Where is the coolant cavity located in the head of a 318?

I also have to ask, when I pulled out the last manifold bolt, the most aft lower bolt, water came out. This normal? Did the same on the other side when I did it. I towled out the valve seat to remove the collected water.

This is the first time I have gone down under the engine. Found my oil leak. All the bolts on the starboard side oil pan were either loose of missing, port side all tight? (too many beers my dear mechanic?). Remember I bought this fine beast in February. Also found the dipstick connection loose and leaking. Also found a brand new looking petcock at fwd starboard side just above the oil pan, in the block. Is this the coolant system drain?

Surprize! Found a freezer plug that looked suspicious, all crudded up and paint peeling. Poked at it with a screwdriver, gush, the engine emptied of water into the bilge. Now wouldn't that have been a nice surprize at an in-opportune moment, (going over the bar? or perhaps while landing a slab?).

Jeff, yes manifold gaskets, I too thought this could be the cause. Did not find anything amiss. At fwd end a Solid gasket except at top which has a hole for the freshwater entry, same gasket at the other aft end, which has hole at top for water to flow from riser to manifold, then another totaly Solid gasket on the other side of the riser, to the tailpipe, separating where the now warmed salt water enters and exits with the exhaust out the tail. Note the catalogue at my marine store shows both gaskets with possible use at all three locations? ?? Also one catalogue does not show the "freshwater distribution pipe", other one does. Still trying to figure that one out. Am taking your advice and reversing coolant flow direction, (my maniflods don't have coolant pipes. Only question I have is that the engine is tilted so much, lowering the top of the riser to about 1" higher than the "to be" freshwater entry at the fwd end of the manifold. Will this cause an air lock? Took of the thermostat and will replace. I am going to look at the sea water pump but probably not the engine f/w pump, it's not leaking anywhere and water is being pumped.

So all this does not explain the coolant system bubbling into the exhaust pipes.

What is going on?"
 
"..."I also have to ask, w

"..."I also have to ask, when I pulled out the last manifold bolt, the most aft lower bolt, water came out. This normal?"

Yes.

.." Also found a brand new looking petcock at fwd starboard side just above the oil pan, in the block. Is this the coolant system drain?


Yes. There's one on both sides.

..."Am taking your advice and reversing coolant flow direction, (my manifolds don't have coolant pipes. Only question I have is that the engine is tilted so much, lowering the top of the riser to about 1" higher than the "to be" freshwater entry at the fwd end of the manifold."

I'm really confused here. Either your motor is FWC (fresh water cooled) or not. If RWC (raw water cooled)you can pull the copper tubes from the exhaust manifolds and run RAW water in from the front. (That much tilt is no problem.)

So which is it, RWC or FWC?

Jeff"
 
"FWC.

Damn, I can't ge


"FWC.

Damn, I can't get the freezer plug out. While prying on it tore it pretty nearly in half. Looks like I need to chisle it out. Ideas?"
 
"Take a round rod about an inc

"Take a round rod about an inch in diameter and knock it into the block, then turn it sideways and remove it with pliers. If it's already too far gone for that, use a chisel--but be careful! Bugger up the block and it will leak.

Jeff

PS: Use epoxy when you put the newe one in."
 
"Good news.

Got the L/H man


"Good news.

Got the L/H manifold replaced. The riser and tail pipe were a pain. Both have bolts that you cannot grab with a socket. Even a thin wall box end will not fit. You have to use an open end and torq a singe flat advance at a time. Engineering sucks! Got er done though!

Got that ding dang freeze plug out. Used a torch, got it red hot, banged on it, ( I'm good at banging!), and then grabbed it with the vice grips and it popped right out. Replacement went in slick, and tight with epoxy, (thanks Jeff, new trick for me!) ;)

Restored all the hoses, clamps and all. Filled her up and ran for maybe 5 minutes. Shut her down and did a pressure check...15lbs held for several minutes!!!

So cool, thought I had a cracked head, turns out it could have been a multiple failure at numerous points of the cooling system, but not the heads! Rebuilt sea water pump, new heat exchanger, new thermostat, new manifolds and all with new gaskets!

WaLaa! The old engine is tighted up and working like it has a new set of duds on!

Good old 318!"
 
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