Problem getting my boat to full speed

"Got a 21 ft glasstron with an

"Got a 21 ft glasstron with an inboard, purchased it last year and could get to just over 40mph.
Just got it out for the first time this year and was fine up to about 30mph but if i pushed it any harder the engine would speed up but the boat would slow way down, almost seemed like the the prop was coming out of the water. Then i would have to slow the throttle down before i could get it to take off again.
I thought it was due to the engine mount trolling motor that i had just put on.
But i also noticed a ring that goes around the end of the prop (which a mechanic had cracked this winter) had fallen off, could this be the problem.
Im sure there is a simple explination to my problem but i am pretty new to boating any advice would be appreciated."

"well I think I read the ring

"well I think I read the ring helps with prop blow out, but could be the prop and/or prop hub is slipping, just hope for you its not ehe Coupler.

Have you ever hit anything ?"

"No the bottom end was just re

"No the bottom end was just redone this spring, and the ring fell off the first time i used it after getting it back. The ring was on last summer and i never had the problem.
Could you exlain what prop blow out is."

Would a coupler slip or just g

Would a coupler slip or just go out completly? I don't smell anything which i think i would if the coupler was slipping. It seems like the the prop keeps spinning but the boat just slows

"Another downside of raising t

"Another downside of raising the lower unit is when the prop is raised with respect to the water surface it tends to "paddlewheel." That is, along with pushing or pulling your boat forward, the prop wants to walk on the water like a paddlewheel. This generates a rightward motion to the transom, which causes the boat to turn left. To compensate the driver must turn the wheel right in order to maintain a straight path. Now we have the undesirable effect of "crabbing" the gearcase when the boat travels in a straight line. This creates drag, just the thing we are trying to avoid. At high speeds it also tends to form a bubble on the "shadow" or port side of the gearcase. As the speed increases this bubble trails back further and further until it reaches the propeller. This causes the propeller to blow out or ventilate. Now the prop suddenly stops generating thrust and lift and the bow drops and the boat slows. This is known as gearcase blowout and is usually very dangerous because if one side of the bow catches the water before the other side (or if the steering wheel is not straight) the hull will "hook" and change ends violently. So how does one avoid this "ugliness"? The simple answer is to apply a torque tab to the skeg. This wedge, applied to the right side of the skeg, tends to apply a leftward force to the gearcase which should compensate for the propeller forcing the gearcase right. Now the gearcase doesn’t crab through the water, no bubble, no blowout, no hook and hopefully no accident. Remember when a hull flies the only thing other than the prop in the water is the skeg so it is the single thing left that gives the operator control of the boat. Like flying an airplane with only one small control surface, to say it is crucial is a vast understatement."

Makes sense still wondering wh

Makes sense still wondering why it does this now when it didnt last year.

"diffuser ring is missing,"

"diffuser ring is missing,"

That what it is called? Think

That what it is called? Think it is making my boat do this?

can you have a new diffuser ri

can you have a new diffuser ring put on an old prop?

Contact a prop shop and give t

Contact a prop shop and give them the part number on the prop they should be able to get you something.