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1991 Sea Ray 170 Wonbt Restart after Short Run

S

stealth94rt

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"I am the 2nd owner of the abo

"I am the 2nd owner of the above boat - bought it used about 4 years ago from a dealer in Cinci OH. This is the first boat I've owned.

I have had a nagging problem every season. The boat starts fine after being put into the water at the dock. However, after a brief 5-10 minute run across the lake, it runs rough when brought back to idle for the no-wake zone, and then refuses to restart after turning off. Our outing always ends with having to be towed in by a another kind boater.

It has been to 4 different repair shops for various carburator "adjustments". Each repair costs us $250-$350. Each time it works well for a few trips (the rest of the season), and then the problem starts all over again the next season. The boat gets winterized at the end of every season.

We had the same problem yesterday. I'm about at the point that I wanted to put a hole in the hull and give it a burial at the bottom of the lake.

Any advise on what I could do to fix this problem would be appreciated. I used to really enjoy boating, but this problem turns every trip to the lake into a "stressful" experience, and the fun has just about gone."
 
"refuses to start, dosent turn

"refuses to start, dosent turn over(cracked manifold, leaking riser, hydrolocked) or dosent want to run .
The next ime it happens pull the spark plugs and then try to spin the motor. See if any water comes out.
Fuel issue: water in the fuel making it`s way to the carb, instal a water sep filter.
a bit more on the repair history would help. what was done so far, etc."
 
"This is a closed cooling syst

"This is a closed cooling system correct?
You have a radiator cap to put in antifreese correct?

Several common problems with 4 cylinder motors.
1. the distributor shaft bushings are worn and you are not able to keep the correct point gap after runnnig a short time.
2. Radiator cap leaks and small amounts of antifreese runs into the center two spark plugs and shorts them out (can be seen by dried liquid traced running towards the spark plugs.
3. getting to hot! 190 degrees or more.
4. fuel issues, vent clogged, pick up in tank clogged or getting clogged after running a short time stopping fuel to carb,

When was the last full tune up done?

Your "proffesionals" do not appear to be very proffesional. They need to actually take the boat out and lake test it for a hour or so in order to actually find/figure out/FIX the problem.

When I worked in the industry I lake tested every single baot I serviced NO MATTER what was done for a repair or even better was to try to reproduce the customer complaint!

You may need to find a water front marina who will lake test your boat to find the problem"
 
"I think this is a water-coole

"I think this is a water-cooled system. I don't believe there is a radiator. It has the Mercruiser 3.0L 4-cyl. engine with the Alpha drive.

RE: Repair history - most of the mechanics have focused on the carburator, stating it is the source of the problem. It had a full tune up with plugs, new cap, rotor, 2 seasons ago. We only run the boat on the lake about 5x per season for about 1 hour each outing. So, it doesn't see much use.

When we have the "no start" problem, the engine cranks, but doesn't fire (like the engine is flooded with gas).

Yesterday, when we had the problem again, we pulled the flame arrestor off the carb - the bowl was full of gas like a faucet was turned on.

Does that help?"
 
"gas pouring down the carb wou

"gas pouring down the carb would indicate a high float level, debris clogging the needle and seat ,defective needle and seat,leaking or fuel soaked float allowing the fuel bowl level to go too high."
 
"I'm wondering if I should

"I'm wondering if I should get a rebuilt carb and put it on, or let the service place rebuild the carb that's on there?

If I get a rebuilt, will I have to make adjustments after installing, or do they just bolt on and they're ready?"
 
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