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BF90 Changing streering swivel arm

ricksrealm

New member
Looks like i may need to repla

Looks like i may need to replace the rusted swivel arm on my 96 BF90A. I am unable to get grease up to the top of the swivel. The grease only comes out the bottom. The motor is really hard to turn/steer. Has anyone else had to do this? And is a costly repair? Does the motor case and lower unit need to be removed? It looks like to me that it can be done by removing the lower unit with shift rod. Two lower shock/mount bolts and the two studs that go thru the steering swivel... Any input? Thanks
 
"Had this problem but it ended

"Had this problem but it ended up being the steering cable itself. The cable has grease inside of it so if it sits in the sun (like here in Hawaii) for a long time, the grease gets dry."
 
"Ya, Thats what i originaly th

"Ya, Thats what i originaly thought until i disconnected the steering cable. The steering wheel and cable turn freely. Then motor is real hard to turn manually. Has to be in the steering swivel area on the motor itself..."
 
"Just a note- Chryslers and Me

"Just a note- Chryslers and Mercs got this symptom a lot and was cured by applying heat from an oxy ace torch till the grease would flow to the corrosion. Not knowing the amount of plastic and combustibles in the area of that model- you will have to decide for your self. Also saw a post from a guy who freed his up with mineral oil in his grease gun. But would do the heat first as not sure how a pivot full of mineral oil would react with a torch but have an idea.

Last; something learned the hard way- if you are going to grease your steering cable, make sure the rod is collapsed inside the steering support or you will fill it's "cave" with grease and it's a buggar to get it clear."
 
"I didn't get it fixed bec

"I didn't get it fixed because of the cost. So, I drilled a hole into the bushing on both sides of the motor. I spent about a week spraying in PB Blaster and pushing the motor back and forth. I then tapped the threads and put in grease fittings where they should have been in the first place!! It's a lot better than it was. I can now use the boat. I'm going to keep working on it with PB Blaster. Thanks for everyone's help."
 
"Rick,
Your first thoughts a


"Rick,
Your first thoughts are good. You may be able to change the mount frame as you suggest by backing off the 4 nuts on the mounts and pulllng the shift rod.
You can back off the 4 nuts about 1/8 inch or so and see if the engine is free to move using a pry bar. If it is you can go that route. If not more work in involved and you have to tear it down. If the mounts are free perhaps $400 to $500 will do the job. It is a fair amount of work. (At least 4 + hours and probably more.)"
 
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