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Honda bf130 running rough

gnm001

New member
"hi guys. i'm new on here

"hi guys. i'm new on here and i'm looking for some help with my engine running fault. my outboard is a 2001 bf130. serial no: bzbe - 1302076. it's running really rough at idle and splutters like hell when you try to accelerate. if you free rev it it's slightly better but still not right. when it does eventually get up to revs it seems fine. i've already replaced the fuel system from the engine connection right through to the fuel rail.including the vst, pump and all hoses and filters. it also has new plugs. i'm at a bit of a loss now. anyone out there got any ideas? please help."
 
"I'm going to jump on here

"I'm going to jump on here to see if we can help each other. I have a 1999 BF130 with similar problems. I've already changed or cleaned the entire fuel system along with the MAP sensor and IAC sensor, plugs, plug wires, etc.

In essence, the motor is running rich and fouling plugs. If I put new plugs in it will run fine for a day and then they load up and I'm right back where I started. I'm convinced it's a fuel issue but I can't get it figured out.

I would be happy to exchange notes with you if you want to email directly - [email protected]. Perhaps between the two of us we can get it figured out."
 
"George...Have you done a cyli

"George...Have you done a cylinder drop test? At idle, momentarily pull each plug wire off of the spark plugs one at a time and see what the engine does. Be sure to use an insulated pliers. If the engine makes no change when you pull the plug, that is the cylinder that has an issue. Normally the engine should run slower or die. If it is one or two cylinders, may just be injector issues. At least that is a place to start. There are a host of things to do after that if it is one cylinder.

Check spark plugs and see what they look like. Any water on any of them?"
 
"Jack...are all of your plugs

"Jack...are all of your plugs fouled? Or just a couple?

Has this motor run ok at any point for you?

Has this started all of a sudden or gradually?

Has there been any major work done to the motor?

It sounds like you have done a lot already...when you cleaned the fuel system, did you check the breather passages for the vapor separator chamber?

Have you checked the black plasic cover (breather)to the intake for debris or critters that may have built a nest? How about the opening in the top of your engine cover (in the top rear)? Any of those plugged up could imped the air and possibly cause it to run rich. The computer can compensate for only so much.

Just trying to look for something obvious.

There are still a lot of other things it can be especially if this is occuring to all of the cylinders."
 
"Mike,

Awesome response, th


"Mike,

Awesome response, thanks! This is a big help. I've been out working on the motor all day and just sat down to relax a bit. To answer some of your questions:

I've owned the boat for two years. It's a 1999 with about 1250 hours on the meter currently. Apparently the original owner had a new power head installed under the Honda recall at about 500 hours. I believe at that time they also changed out the VST and high-pressure pump (it has the newer style filter now).

This came up slowly. It ran perfect for the first year and a half. At first it just started to protest slightly after a long idle (like on a fish). That progressed to stalling when I would take off after a long idle. Now, if I put in new plugs they will foul within a day (first trip good second trip fouled).

As far as the plugs go - number one and two are bad, three is pretty clean, four is the worst.

Like I said, I've been working the problem systematically today. All plugs are sparking. Compression is very close to 190 across the board. I cleaned the air box and the intake breather looks so-so (can I run without them?). I'll check the intake on the engine cover now.

I just scored a Honda manual in pdf format so I'll take a better look at the Vapor Separator breather passages as well - any tips there would be greatly appreciated. Another mechanic cleaned it last time so I can't answer accurately.

Again, THANKS!"
 
"Jack...What is your serial nu

"Jack...What is your serial number on the frame? i'll check to see it the warranty work is in the records.

Also, if you have not done it already, I would go to honda-marine.com and click on owners link, then product registration. Under registration about the fourth line down you will see "If you need to change your name, address, phone number or ownership information, please click here"...you can then officially transfer the warranty of the motor to you. That way, you can be notified if issues arrise in the future.

More basics...

1. Check Oil - make sure it is not too high.
2. Check PVC valve (yes this motor has one) See your shop manual
3. Check thermostat to be sure that it is not always in partially or full postion. Then engine would run too cold.
4. Check timing marks. Since you have a shop manual, you may want to check to be sure that the timing marks line up. You can find this in the maintenance section under valve adjustment. Make sure that your timing belt is tight. It has a self tightener. If the belt feels real loose, it may have jumped timing.

I'm trying to go for the easy stuff first.

I am also assuming you are using NGK spark plugs and a good fuel treatment like Sea Foam, PRI-G, Quickkleen, etc.

The intake breather is actally called a silencer. I wouldn't run long without it. It definitely will be more noisy. I can not confirm its other functions at this sitting. While we are talking about it, there is a small plastic hose that attaches to a nipple on the bottom. Make sure the hose is not plugged up and make sure the other end goes to a spot on the bottom of that area that is a hole to allow air for it to breath. It should not be connected to anything else.

Eventually, a leak down test would be good. Hopefully, you will find one of the "obvious" things.

It is really hard suggesting rational things to do without seeing the engine. If I think of some other basic things, I will let you know.

It may be possible that there are cracks in your head. Even though it was replaced before, there have been some issues with these depending on your serial number. They cause idling and acceleration problems. I am not sure what the spark plugs would look like like. The ones I ran into, one cylinder failed and there was water on the spark plug. Unfortunately, the head will have to be pulled. That is better done by a dealer. Also, if there are cracks, it may still be covered by a 10 year (from original purchase)warranty. This is assuming the unit was purchased in the United States. The warranty only applies if there are cracks around the water passages. Anything else, you are on your own. There are several other things that could go wrong with the head...hope it does not get to that."
 
"Thought I would jump back on

"Thought I would jump back on here to post an update. In the last round of tune-up work I did several things so it may not be possible to discern exactly which did the trick:

- adjust timing belt
- changed the main relay back to original(was replaced on recall)
- thoroughly cleaned throttle body intake
- new plugs
- changed all filters (again)
- and more...

Through all this I never found anything really "wrong". Then, finally, I checked the thermostat and, sure enough, it was stuck open. Not sure why I didn't check it sooner, wish I had. This is the only thing that was "not right" with the motor and I believe it to be the culprit. I cleaned it and re-installed and the boat is back to purring like a kitten. I have a new one in route and should have it installed this week.

After all that I can't believe it was something so simple. I learned a lot through the process and the motor did receive a thorough tune-up so she's running better, and more fuel efficient, than ever.

Thanks to all for the great advice!"
 
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