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View Full Version : AD41B removal and reinstallation



skiss
05-23-2009, 07:02 AM
Hi... I have not seen any posts regarding the proper reinstallation method for AD41B (early edition 290 Duo). Engines have been totally rebuilt and were removed by disassembly of components to access the bellhousing bolts.
Please suggest the right way to install. Same way as coming out or remove the drives and take apart the transom shield...Thank you. Steve in Ontario.

haffiman37
05-23-2009, 07:11 AM
"If You do not want to risk damaging the intermediate shaft, I would recommend to remove drive and bell housing from transom, then install bell housing on engine before install. When all out, why not change intermediate shaft bearing at the same time."

skiss
05-23-2009, 08:32 AM
"A big thank you... Mech is a top notch performance diesel rebuilder, but not a marine spe******t. Looking at the parts manual and workshop manual, it is not clear if the steering fork and helmet have to be removed? Also in question is the parts to replace given your good advice. Qty 2 sealing rings(958860), rubber rings(813967), qty 1 Bearing(11013) bearing(181105), seal(925260) and seal(842913). Anything else suggested? Engines had 3500 hrs and drives were recently totally rebuilt by volvo marine mechanics. Everything so far is being done by the volvo books and specs. Thank you again."

haffiman37
05-23-2009, 08:53 AM
"No need to remove fork and helmet. Take out the 2 screws that goes through the helmet 'bolt' and pull out the 'bolt'. If the bolt is stuck, install 2 screws in the smaller holes and torque the bolt out, it works as a puller. Then remove the pins for the tillt cyls, locking screws for drive hinge pins, hose clamps for bellows and water hose, finally the drive hinge pins. (support the fin!!)
If You do not want to remove the whole drive, at least the upper unit.
Knock up the tabs and unscrew the 6 bolts holding the clamp ring. Remove/loosen clamp ring. If clamp ring is stuck, same procedure as the helm bolt. Install the screws in the holes behind the locking tabs and torque loose the ring."

skiss
05-23-2009, 09:10 AM
Thank you Morten. Drives have been off before so no problems there. Anything else other than the universal and bellows that should be inspected / replaced? Is the hose to the tap from the drive a big deal to replace? Reading past cooling issues it was suggested the raw water intake valve be replaced. Mine operates freely and has only seen fresh water. Your opinion on this is appreciated.

haffiman37
05-23-2009, 09:23 AM
"With engine out and drive removed, no problem replacing water hose. You have to remove the tap on the inside as the hose has a collar that is 'squeezed' tight on the inside. I hate the tap, but is up to You. Even if working, reduces water flow."

skiss
05-23-2009, 11:44 AM
Last 2 questions... Should I order locking stiker plates(3)or can they be reused? And the dealer cannot identify the seacock tap replacement part that you recommend. The tap is 853517 and I think it is a 45 degree offset. Thank you.

haffiman37
05-23-2009, 10:54 PM
"If tab does not brake, they may be reused.
Look at below pic:
#9-872334
#10-872338
#17-925064
http://www.marineengine.com/discus/messages/12494/283856.jpg"