Winterizing a 305 185hp

"hey all ; i've got a 185

"hey all ; i've got a 185 hp it's a 305 . how do i winterize this myself ? want to save some moey ,but i want to do it right .could someone walk me through the steps to do this ?"

Tim...everyone seems to have t

Tim...everyone seems to have their own process that they have adapted or modified. Best thing to do is to get a manual for your year and use that process but that being said this is what I do for my winterization

start engine up and warm up to normal operating temp
change engine oil and filter and fuel/water separator
start engine up again to circulate new oil and then fog engine
open drains or remove caps from exhaust manifolds and drain
open block petcocks and drain (ream out drains to get crap out)
drop the big hose that goes from t-stat housing to water pump
drain power steering cooler and oil cooler (if you have them)

Not sure what kind of drive you have so that would be a different process.

"Ouch! There's gonna be s

"Ouch! There's gonna be so much water hiding in there that parts are sure to crack over the winter. In addition, that method leaves bare metal that will rust all winter long. Yikes!

The safe way is to use Pink Stuff (RV antifreeze), introducing it into the pump inlet until it comes out the back.

Here's the time proven method:

Drain the block AND exhaust manifolds.

Replace plugs and pull the thermostat.

Introduce the pink stuff to the raw water inlet and run the motor 'til you see pink stuff coming out the back. (You can buy a plastic tank from marine stores with a valve and hose on the bottom. If your boat uses a muff deal, the hose can be attached to the muff, so the Pink Stuff goes in that way. If you have a raw water pump on the motor, break the hose to it and put the Pink Stuff in there.)

Shut the motor down and pull thermostat housing again. Poiur in pink stuff full to the top, then replace (with a new one) the t-stat and button it up. Done.

Jeff"

"I hate to disagree with you a

"I hate to disagree with you and I understand you have your own method but there is no way there is any water left in that engine, been doing it that way for over 15 years, live in Canada and have never had a problem. Air does not freeze and the RV antifreeze does nothing for rust unless it has rust inhibitors in it, which not all pink stuff does.

As I stated up front everone has their own process and I think he should follow the one in his manual. I'm not saying mine is any better than yours although mine is very close to my manual and I'm just stating what works for me."

thank you both for the help th

thank you both for the help that you gave . i will try to pick up a manual this week .does it make a difference if i'm in the us or home in canada for the winter ?

"Change oil and filter, and fu

"Change oil and filter, and fuel filter, as above. Restart and fog. Drain the exhaust and block, then hoses per your manual or either method above. If you're at all worried about residual water (I am) fill it with anti-freeze. However, use low-tox automotive anti-freeze, not RV, because it will help prevent rust. That's how a good marina in Ontario would do it. it's not that expensive, because you can collect most of it in the spring, and re-use .

On top of this, assuming it's a Cobra, the outdrive should come off and wheel bearing grease applied to gimble bearing and u-joints. Triple grease or never-seize to drive shaft splines. And , of course, change outdrive lube and new gasket for re-assembly. Good time to inspect water pump impeller."