Timing marks mercruiser140 181cid

I finally finished putting my

I finally finished putting my old 181 back together. Block and exhaust manifold were both cracked. welded block and new manifold and rebuild .IT fired up on the first try and runs decent but I'm not sure if I'm reading the timing marks correctly.0 mark is tdc then there is 5 marks(10 degrees counterclockwise} to an A marking.there is only 4 degrees of mark on the other side of 0. Timing according to my manuel is 6 btdc at 600rpm.dwell is set right but when set to 6btdc(left or counterclockwise of 0) it doesn't run as well. The manuel says nothing to decipher the marks and direction. I tried moving it the other direction with the same results but it seems the best it runs is at 0. Are the marks to the left(counterclockwise) of 0 btdc and what does the A mark stand for? This is my first boat rebuild so it may seem like a trivial question for the pros out there but I want to make sure I'm setting it right before I start throwing money at other problems. thank-you

"Mike: The timing dial wasn&#

"Mike: The timing dial wasn't moved during the rebuild was it? Recheck the dwell and check the timing with the light directly perpendicular over the dial and not at a sharp angle. I painted a stipe 1/8 in. wide on both sides of the timing mark on the balancer with white paint. I also put an arrow point on the dial at the correct timing mark. It is easy to see it flash on the dark timing mark with paint on both sides.

The 0 on the dial is Top Dead Center on #1 cylinder. Degree markings left of it facing the engine are Before TDC markings or CCW. The A stands for After TDC and are CW. The 4 degrees ATDC are there because timing is generally not set more than a few degrees ATDC since it means the plug is firing on the down movement after max. compression. Worn timing chain or misalignment of the timing gears would also cause your condition. When you adjust the distributor, it will move off the timing you set when you tighten the bolt. Mark the shaft and bracket with a lumber crayon to see if it moved."

"I have this same engine but i

"I have this same engine but i am noticing at full throttle i am only getting 28 knots also i notice that my alterantor belt keeps slipping off. Also it seems like i am getting a constant knocking sound from the front of the engine. pleas help, also my 3 blade propeller has a chip on one of the blade"

"Carlos: the alternator belt

"Carlos: the alternator belt slipping off can be just a worn and loose belt, a loose crank or alternator pulley, a worn or bent alternator shaft or if the belt is new, misalignment of the pulleys causing the belt to jump off.

The knocking can just be a buildup of carbon on top of a cylinder that can make the engine shake, shudder and sound like a hammer striking an anvil or it may be a rod causing the knock. Also check your motor mounts and bases.

Does the knock ever go away? Is your oil pressure within tolerance? If it is, then try using an engine carbon remover; GM has a good one that I have used on my truck engine--thought I threw a rod it was shaking and knocking so violently--turned out it was carbon on the piston top from using fuel octane enhancer additives. If that doesn't work, you may have a worn out engine.

First, you need to fix or replace the damaged prop. The prop is out of balance and just may be contributing to your problems but definitly is going to create problems with your outdrive.
Good luck, Guy"

"Thanks Sir may i ask youwhat

"Thanks Sir may i ask youwhat is the name of the carbon remover from GM and also is this something i can do myself and would is the procedures for doing it. I will change the prop which is a 3blade but i dont know the pitch for reaching 4000-4500 rpm what size prop would you recomend and the pitch, also i notice my front engine mounts are in terrible shape"

"CARLOS:
You have a problem

"CARLOS:
You have a problem that is in need of immediate attention. If the "front engine mounts are in terrible shape", you have to remedy that issue. What exactly do you mean by terrible shape? Are you talking abount the mounting base that the enigine mounts are bolted to? Are the tops of the bases collapsed to the point that the mounts are sinking into the bases? If that is the case, then there is rot in the bases and they need to be rebuilt which is not an impossible job.

The engine mounts support the engine and are adjusted to keep it in-line with the outdrive. With engine out of alignment, damage is occurring to the engine coupler and stress is being put on the outdrive gears, etc.

In addition, if there is rot in the mounts, then there is a 99% probability that there is rot in the floor, stringers and transom--all are major repairs requiring the floor removal and the engine and O/D pulled.

Unless you can do the repairs yourself, you are looking at $3000 to $4500 in hull structure repairs alone on a 20' boat. There are web sites that tell you how to do it. Materials will cost about $1000 - $2000 depending on the depth of refurbishment you do.

For starters, take your boat to a mechanic you can trust and have them inspect the floor, stringers, transom and engine mount bases for rot. Also tell them what problem you are having. Then get their advice on what to do and go from there. You may find it is time to send the boat to Davy Jones' Locker and get another one.

If the boat is still sea worthy, check for the prop pitch and size numbers and an MFG name on the old prop. If you can't find them, in order for you to get the right prop for your engine, get the engine serial # off of the valve cover tag or look at the boat title for it and then go to www.mercruiser.com and look for the prop by engine SN #. That will give you the size and pitch and part # you need.

Good luck, Guy"

I have 1999 searay 180 bowride

I have 1999 searay 180 bowrider with a 3.0 mercruiser outdrive. I do not think it has a fuel/water separator on it. It looks like it is only fit with a filter. Am I missing something. please help. Thank you and happy boating.

"Jon: By tacking on to the en

"Jon: By tacking on to the end of someone else's message, your problem won't be seen by many board members. You need to start a separate thread about your problem to get the most responses.

Is your fuel filter attached in-line after the fuel pump? If so, it is probably just a fuel filter. If it looks like an oil filter with its own mounting bracket before the pump, it probably is a fuel/water separator filter. Guy"