23 liter omc running rough

"Hello,

I am new to I/O&#

"Hello,

I am new to I/O's and have lots of questions so any input is apreciated. I have a manual in the mail but would like to get out this weekend. I just bought an 88 bayliner with a 2.3 liter omc. Before buying a local mechanic (no affiation to this boat) replaced the shift interupt modual and said that everything else was fine, lake tested for 30 min, no problems, and ok'ed to buy it. he said it probably had 500 hours or less. Last weekend after 15 min of boating stopped to swim, later, it would not start easily. When running, seemed to die, or pause simular to when my ford pickup had a loose plug wire, sometimes quit all together. I eventually got it running and stopped at a marina to dodge a thunder storm. Found a new kill switch and replaced the old one. This seemed to fix it, , It was hard to start the first time but ran well for the rest of the day.

So Questions,

1. What else should I check that could be causing this?

1.5 What is the recomended Idol RPM?

2. I ordered new plugs, wires, and a tune up kit, do I need to re-adjust the timing when installing this or can I just match the new parts up to the old parts?

3. Where is the water seperator and how do I check it? (Mechanic said gas was fine, used tester)And I added 1/2 tank new gas.

4. Where is the flame arrestor and what does it look like? I would like to clean it as suggested in other posts.

5. this is a 17 foot bayliner capri, what kind of top speed should I be getting? My speedo says 32 but this feels low. Anyone have this boat? Can the speedo go bad/be pluged and how would I check this?

6. Is it ok to run WOT? I am hitting 5500 rpm on the top end (gauge shows redline at 6000) and don't want to damage anything.

Thanks for the help,

Joe"

"1 Check your module ESA to e

"1 Check your module ESA to ensure it's not activated at start up time. While running at idle in neutral pull up the arm on the interrupt switch, engine should stumble and drop in RPM's to around 400, then let go and they should return to normal. Also check that the switch is not already engaged before starting.

Idle RPM's should be around 600-650

2 Always check and adjust the timing after changing the points (use dwell meter to set them right on)

3 Water/fuel separator should be just before the fuel pump. Normally a spin on filter looks like an oil filter. Dump the contents into a clear jar and look for water separation. Should just put a new on as part of your regular tune up/maintenance.

4 Flame arrestor is on top of the carb, sort of like the marine version of the air cleaner. Normally never needs to be replaced but should be cleaned regulary. You can use carb cleaner and then let air dry or blowe out with compressed air.

5 Thats not a big motor so probably low to mid thirties is about right.

6 WOT RPM's are 5200-5600 so you are in the range but don't run there long or often."

"Thanks for all the great info

"Thanks for all the great info. Guess I will have to wait for the manual on the tune up.

Still waiting for the manual so, ESA means??? and is located???

Thanks for putting up with me,
Newby"

ESA (electronic shift assi

ESA (electronic shift assist) OMC designed a fancy way to slow the engine RPM when shifting out of gear into neutral. By dropping the RPM's it reduces the load on the gears and makes them mush easier to separate. This will be black oblong shaped with a 2 and 4 pin connector plus a ground wire. Should be on the left side facing the engine up top near the carb.

"Hello I have a 2.3 LT cobra t

"Hello I have a 2.3 LT cobra timing at 10deg carb backfires and somtimes stalls when pinned.If I advance timing to 18deg seem to improve this condition, could choke cause this problem, Please help . thanks"