b79 bRude 140Convert choke butterfly to primer system

"I have a 1979 Evinrude 140.

"I have a 1979 Evinrude 140. The engine was rebuilt 2 years ago and it runs like a top. Compression, spark, and fuel delivery all check out just fine. The problem is this engine has been a BEAST on cold starts start from day one. My cold-starting procedure is to pump the primer bulb, move the warm-up lever to about 3/4 throttle, turn the key for 2 seconds and then press in for choke. Nearly every time the motor will kick over then die. I will repeat this sequence two or three times and then the motor finally fires and runs without dying. Then, as motor warms up and increases RPM I back the lever down until the engine maintains about 3000RPM for a minute or two. Once I've done this the engine will run without any problems.

When the engine is warm I can just turn the key and fires no problem, but the cold starts seem to require a little luck, crossing the fingers, and waving a dead chicken over the engine while reciting a spell

This summer I ditched the choke butterflies on my waverunner and installed a primer system. WOW, what a difference. On a cold start I give the primer a few shots, hit the start button, and BAMMO she's ready to roll.

I'd love this ease of starting on the old Evinrude 140. The wife-unit gets frustrated trying to start the boat and she really dislikes driving it for that very reason. This summer she told me "I'd love to have a boat that you can just turn the key and it starts".

So, now my quest begins to make this old Evinrude easier to start. What would it take to convert this beast from a choke butterfly to a primer solenoid system? Are there certain years of motors from which I could salvage a primer system?

Thanks,
KJ"

"I have a 1979 235. My carbs

"I have a 1979 235. My carbs were giving me fits, so I bought a used set from a marine salvage yard. The new set were from a later model engine, and had the primer system. The new set replaced the old perfectly. The primer system worked just fine, no modifications necessary. I would consider going the same route. (I got the carbs, fuel pumps, primer system, all hoses, connectors, etc. for $100) Best money I ever spent on the beast. Don't know the year on the new set, but they had to be newer than 1980, and older than 1985."

"If the carburetors were/are a

"If the carburetors were/are as clean as they should be, all jets checked visually and cleaned manually, and all of the choke butterflies closed tightly when activated, the start sequence being:

Prime the fuel bulb up hard, apply a slight bit of throttle. Press the key in to activate the choke and turn the key to the start position at the same time, and hold that position until the engine starts. After which, letting loose of the key and leaving the throttle where it is unless the rpms are too high, and from time to time pressing the key in momentarily when needed to re-activate the choke until the engine warms up somewhat (a few seconds or so).

The above choke setup and the later fuel primer setup should be equal in starting performance, at least that's been my experience."

"My replacement was to remedy

"My replacement was to remedy a set of carbs that I could never seem to clean adequately. I agree with Mr. Reeves. Im not sure that the primer system really worked that much better. That said, as I recall, not every carb had the butterfly for the choke. With the primer, every carb gets a lead. That would seem to put the primer system above the flappers, but again my main purpose was performance, not starting."

Forgot to add-I bought a used

Forgot to add-I bought a used set of carbs for my 225's on Ebay for $50. You can get some really good buys there.

"My 79 Johnson 140 (basica

"My 79 Johnson 140 (basically the same engine as the Rude 140) was also a pig to start, but is now a hell of a lot better.

Like you I had the mantra of squeeze bulb, warm up lever at full, key on start and pressed in and pray the bloody thing would start after only 4 attempts and cough asmatically into life cylinder by cylinder until I could drop the warm up lever after about 2 minutes}} (for weeks the neighbours thought the boat was called "Start ya Bastard").

Have you checked if there are any obstructions in the fuel lines from the electric choke to the cylinder heads. I found green gunge restricting the fuel lines (eventually). Easily cleaned out with a squirt of carb cleaner and now the engine starts, even in winter, on at most a second turn of the key.

(I also found the line from the choke to the port cylinder heads was cut and plugged so I was only dumping fuel into the starboard 2 cylinders)."

"One other thing that can help

"One other thing that can help a motor start is installing a set of Boysen reeds. I have had them in my old 1970 Johnson V4 and I put a set in my current motor, a 1987 Johnson 110. In both motors the reeds helped starting, idle smoother and adds a little more power."

"Joe,
The problem is that I c

"Joe,
The problem is that I can activate the choke to get it to start initially. However, if I press in the choke while it is running (well, sputtering and stumbling) it will cause the engine to die. It just seems the engine isn't initially aspirating enough fuel to give adequate fire and get itself going.

Doug,
I had thought about putting Boyesen reeds on this engine. I did that in my waverunner since the originals were allowing some blowback out of the carbs. I haven't noticed any blowback from the carbs on the Evinrude so I assume the reeds are okay. However, I may have to look into them if they help with the starting problem. Plus, a little extra low end performance would be nice for pulling skiers


CSIDER,
"Like you I had the mantra of squeeze bulb, warm up lever at full, key on start and pressed in and pray the bloody thing would start after only 4 attempts and cough asmatically into life cylinder by cylinder until I could drop the warm up lever after about 2 minutes"

Wow, sounds like we have twin motors! Exact same year, size, and starting problems.

"for weeks the neighbours thought the boat was called "Start ya Bastard"

Now that is funny. I nearly busted my gut laughing when I read that When my engine was rebuilt the mechanic replaced all the fuel lines on the engine and I've run a spin-on type fuel filter/water separator since day one, so I can't imagine there's a bunch of crud in the lines creating a restriction. I don't think it's a restriction problem since the engine doesn't stumble or hestiate at any other time.

Sleeper,
"My carbs were giving me fits, so I bought a used set from a marine salvage yard. The new set were from a later model engine, and had the primer system. The new set replaced the old perfectly. The primer system worked just fine, no modifications necessary."

So the primer system was part of the carb body? Hmmm, I'll have to talk with my mechanic and see if he has a set of carbs with a primer system laying around that would fit. He's pretty good about giving me deals on parts so I may be able to work that out fairly cheap with him.

Thanks for all the advice so far.

KJ"

"KJ, do you have power tilt on

"KJ, do you have power tilt on that motor? When the boat is in the water are the exhaust relief ports above or below the water line? On my boat I have a motor bracket and when sitting at the dock my relief ports are below the water line. It used to make the motor harder to start as it would load up a little bit and take a little while to blow out. I tilt the motor up until the ports are out of the water and it starts and runs better. Hwo does it start on the flush hose? "

"Hmmm...I didn't think abo

"Hmmm...I didn't think about the exhaust relief ports. Usually it starts without a hitch on the flushette.

Yes I do have power T&T. Actually, the motor originally didn't have that and that's one of the parts my mechanic gave me a great deal on when he rebuilt the motor.

I'll have to try it with the ports out of the water next time at the boat ramp. It's usually a bear to start if we've sat anchored for a long time as well, but I think the relief ports are out of the water when the boat sets level. This is definitely food for thought.

Thanks."