News on our pawl issue

"Hi again!! FINALLY, we have

"Hi again!! FINALLY, we have found that somehow the push rod (with the sleeve) that goes through the fork was NOT going thru as it should. The opening in the fork was mis-shapen as if it had been "smeared" and was more an oval or half-moon. It was stopping the push rod from moving properly. We filed it so the rod is not hindered and NOW the lower unit latches down.

Still, can't get the pins out of the fork, though. We see that the fork was put on without a bushing on one side, or it fell out (how likely is that??). The pins we are trying to remove, using the pictures (and info. from El Pescador) will not budge. BUT, I think it's because we were told to drive the pins from the outside of the fork toward the bellows. My husband INSISTS that they can't be removed that way. He says the one bushing remaining looks like it is in there from the opposite side than shows in the intermediate housing diagram, item # 38. It shows it going in from the outside, but he says it's in there from the inside. (God only knows, as we don't know what it's supposed to look like anyway!) He keeps trying to drive the pin from the inside out, when I think we were instructed to do it from the outside in.

Please clarify what the instructions were for removing these pins so we can pull the lower unit away and replace the u-joint bellows...I swear we CAN read!! (I can!)} LOL Are the pins driven out by moving them through the fork toward the drive unit and bellows, or driving them from the inside and away from the drive unit?

Once we get this done, we are going to take the boat out to see what happens with the power/RPM/speed, etc., and then decide what the next work is to do on it.

Thanks for your help!!"

"First, congratulations for fi

"First, congratulations for finding what the problem was with the sleeve and the pushrod.

Second, and as I already said, to remove the pins you <u>drive them with a hammer and a punch from outside towards the bellows</u>. To achieve that, you have to turn the steering either to port or to starboard so that the steering helmet and yoke are out of the way. The only exception is if you have a unit with power trim installed. In that case, the pins are drilled and tapped so that they can be <u>pulled</u> with the help of a bolt and perhaps a slide hammer. Since I understood that your outdrive did not have power trim, I did not include this last bit of information in previous messages.

Good luck."

"You could remove the upper to

"You could remove the upper to change the bellows. it is a good idea however to exercise the pins. You need to address the bushing issue also. I reccomend You take off the upper anyway, as it will give You better access. sounds like You're getting a good education in V.P."

"AH, OK! We do have power-tri

"AH, OK! We do have power-trim (you flip a toggle and the drive lowers or raises)...sorry so dense here. We are indeed learning a lot, just not quick enough sometimes. Especially since this is our first stern drive. Looking in the manual a lot, but it just isn't that clear to us. Forgive the ignorance, Pescador!

We'll see what we can do with these pins now...because we don't see anywhere to thread a bolt into the pin to PULL it. The pin looks just like the pictures under Stern Drive Removal in the Seloc Manual.

Our old boat is a 1972 TrimCraft Chrysler 70 HP outboard, and we've only had THAT one for a year. It's in good shape, but we want to sell it and fix up this 1986 Bayliner Capri. We're working on it...
Thanks!"

"Do you have power trim or pow

"Do you have power trim or power tilt? Power trim is hydraulic; power tilt is mechanical-electrical. Somehow, if you have the hinge pins slotted on the outside but not threaded, I don't think you have power trim (unless you have one of the very early ones with the pump above the steering arm and the hydraulics at the bottom of the transom shield). Perhaps you could upload some pictures of what you have?

Also, why does your husband think that you cannot drive the pins towards the bellows? The pins are cylindrical, and as long as you don't have a visible obstruction between a hinge pin and the bellows, that is the way they are driven out."

"Well...uh...power trim, power

"Well...uh...power trim, power tilt...sounds the same. I think that may be the confusion. Here is what the stuff looks like. JUST LIKE THE MANUAL.

I don't know why he doesn't think those pins drive out toward the bellows. Maybe this is helping us understand though...here are the pics below.

You must realize I am not a professional photographer.... But do you see that they are EXACTLY as pictured in the manual? Yet they will not budge and there is fear that we are doing it wrong or that they will break. The bolts WERE out, but now they are back in. He did NOT attempt it while the bolts were through the fork and in the pins. He tried penetrating oil and everything when the bolts were out.

In the past, doing what we think will work and is correct ISN'T, so maybe that's why so much fear and hesitation!!?? Perhaps they are seized in there? Tell me what to take pictures of if this isn't good.

"

"I can see you have power tilt

"I can see you have power tilt, not power trim.

To remove the hinge pin (port side):

Remove the locating screw (1)

Turn the outdrive hard to starboard (all the way to the right) so that the steering yoke 2 is out of the way.

Drive the pin (3) towards the bellows.

Repeat the same process with the starboard side hinge pin, but this time turning the outdrive allt he way to port side (left)

"

"You are not only knowledgeabl

"You are not only knowledgeable, but have the patience of Job!!! It isn't anything different than what you told us before...so we will just DO what we are told.

If the pins are siezed, I know that we can just order new ones when ordering bushings, but how would you suggest removing them if this is the case? What if we crack the fork (is a fear)...do you know how stupid we feel asking over and over?? LMAO!!! I am humble and will keep at it, hoping you guys don't disown us!! "

"If the pins are seized, they

"If the pins are seized, they will likely be seized on the transom shield side. There is supposed to be a nylon bushing inside the hole each side of the fork, so chances of the pins seizing there are either minimal or nil. So don't worry, you should not damage the fork in your attempt to remove the pins.

Try first to drive the pins towards the bellows by using a brass rod and hitting it with a hammer. If that does not work, then heat the area between 1 and 3 in the picture with a propane torch, then attempt to remove the pin again with the help of the hammer and brass rod.

Chances are you will not have to order new pins, as they are made of stainless steel and they do not normally waste. What you will have to do once you remove the hinge pins is to clean the holes very well and remove all remaining aluminum oxide with the help of a bearing scraper or a knife, then smoothen the holes with fine sandpaper and coat them with water-based grease (for example, Quicksilver Special Lubricant 101). However, you may have to end buying new nylon bushings for the fork (there are no bushings on the transom shield side).

You are getting closer to success. "

"You know you are a hero, righ

"You know you are a hero, right??

Well, DH (dear husband) isn't going to try this until he gets some more parts. The water hose is connected to a housing part that looks like it's corroding and he wants to replace that, too...

The u-joint bellows he moved enough to keep the hole from being a problem. I think now he wants to see if there is any improvement with the power. We have the exhaust outlet, the pawl latches properly, and it's important to know if there is any improvement before we order more parts. Shipping costs and all that....

I personally think the U-joint should be cleaned with penetrating oil and the new bellows done, but if he says it won't let water in now, what can one more try on the lake hurt? If a couple hours more can incinerate a part or blow something up, then I would rather not, of course!! But since he thinks he knows what else needs to be ordered, and he will follow the above instructions when replacing the bellows for the NEXT time...

I just hope he's not going to make something worse!! I am going to TPA on the 13th for my own mini-vacation and hope he doesn't explode the Penta before my return!!!! Am I a brat or what?? LOL"

"Hi possibly some pictures mig

"Hi possibly some pictures might help me, I have a 1981 aq120b and a 270 outdrive and I'm having the tilt lock issue myself. Everything seems to be working ok, but I'm not sure if i'm missing something that it latches too? I apoligize for the vagueness of this post, but I'm new to boating and especially IO's. All the springs look good and the pawls seem to move freely, quite stiff but they move. There are 2 little posts that seem like they should be sliding into the holes in the outdrive and bracket assembly. Can someone take a few shots of what this assembly should look like and what it's supposed to latch too."

"Ryan, start a new topic to ge

"Ryan, start a new topic to get your question to the top! These guys know what they are talking about and are a huge help. Did you buy the SELOC manual? It's worth every penny; do not get the online version, but the actual hardcopy. I got mine through this site and it is VERY much the bible everyone seems to think it is. NOT perfect though, for those of us that know nothing about I/O and stern drive. The guys here will be able to help fill in the blanks, though. But if your post isn't near the top they might miss it!! And look into that manual... "