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Raw Water Pump Impeller RR 2001 57 MAG MPI

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abl1111

Regular Contributor
"I have a 2001, 5.7 MAG MPI 35

"I have a 2001, 5.7 MAG MPI 350. I want to replace the impeller in the raw water pump.

I have the online Mercruiser manual but it is a bit vague and it is tight to get in there.

A few questions:

1) Do the (2) hoses connected to the aft of the pump back plate have to be removed 'cause they are next to impossible to get to ? If they do, do I do this before or after I move the pump forward (after removing the below mentioned two bolts )

2) Where are the " (2) bolts " that hold the pump to the motor ?

3) Does the idler pulley get removed ? How about the bracket that holds the idler pulley and connects to the alternator ?


I'll tell you, it is ridiculously tight in there ! My hands are ripped up just poking around ! I'm doing this because it's all original and it's time, even though I have no overheating issue.

Advice greatly appreciated !"
 
Are you meaning the circulatin

Are you meaning the circulating pump on the engine or the raw water pump in the sterndrive if it is an alpha or the raw pump inside the boat if it a bravo?
 
"Remove the pump pulley, while

"Remove the pump pulley, while the belt is still on it loosen the nuts, makes it easier.
Remove the 3 x 1/2"AF nuts that hold the pump on the bracket.
Push the pump aft and let it fall into the bilge. The bracket has a slot cut into it to allow this to happen.
Then you should be able to get to the hose clips.
If you still can't get to the hose clips, remove the hoses from the tramsom plate and the Fuel cooler or the power steering cooler (what ever you have) and pull the pump out of the bilge infront of the motor, hoses and all.

Don't get the hoses mixed up on the pump when you put it back."
 
"}It's a Bravo 3, so mount

"}It's a Bravo 3, so mounted to motor not drive. Raw water pump, not circulating pump,


-----------------------------------------

Remove the pump pulley, while the belt is still on it loosen the nuts, makes it easier.

Remove the 3 x 1/2"AF nuts that hold the pump on the bracket. This is confusing. The manual says to " remove the (2) bolts attaching the seawater pump and bracket to the engine "

Am I removing the bracket ( the part that has the (2) aft hoses connected to it ) or just the pump housing ?

Your description makes it seem like just the pump housing should be detached and moved aft - and there is no way that the pump housing would slide aft because the bracket would be directly in the way. Besides the pump housing seems to be connected to the bracket via (6) bolts ( once the (6) bolts are removed, the innards of the pump housing, i.e. impeller are accessable.

I appreciate your help, just trying to get a clearer picture. It is so damn tight in there !!!! }

-------------------

Push the pump aft and let it fall into the bilge. The bracket has a slot cut into it to allow this to happen.

Then you should be able to get to the hose clips.
If you still can't get to the hose clips, remove the hoses from the tramsom plate and the Fuel cooler or the power steering cooler (what ever you have) and pull the pump out of the bilge infront of the motor, hoses and all.

Don't get the hoses mixed up on the pump when you put it back."
 
"First time I did mine was by

"First time I did mine was by the workshop manual, what a bloody nightmare that was. After I got it all off, I found there was an easier way.
You only have to push the pump back about 3/4 inch so the studs in the pump clear the bracket.
If you have the model with the pressed on pulley, you will have to undo the 3 nuts with an 1/2" openender. 3 of the 6 pump housing bolts are longer and pass thru the bracket."
 
"I've been looking at manu

"I've been looking at manual 31, page 6A-15. It says it's for my year and model engine...

I'll try to dig out the one your talking about."
 
The manual you referred to is

The manual you referred to is not for my motor. My raw water pump is a gonna be

BE-aaaaaaaaaaaatch !
 
"Update - Spoke to my Mercruis

"Update - Spoke to my Mercruiser mechanic. He said no matter what - I am going bleed a lot to do the job.

And then he showed me why it's not worth it to just do an impeller kit, but to replace the entire raw water pump. He said that EVERY pump housing, after a few years, gets scored to different degrees, where the impeller rides - and that it's a very poor design... The spot where the impeller rides is made from cheap sh*t, the same material the pump body itself is made from - and it scores VERY easily from sand etc.

He showed me an example in the shop. Pretty scored !!!!

IMO: It would be a smarter idea to use a SS insert or some sort of removable insert because get this - a new raw water pump - the one I have, retails for over $650, and one without the special air purging stuff I have is $450'ish.

EXPENSIVE !!!!

Pisses me off to have to pay so much $$$$ for something that should be rebuildable.

Needless to say, this was a preventive maintenance job - that I will be putting off this season due to economic restraints - or until I can find one for a MUCH better price..."
 
"Alam, Have a look around on t

"Alam, Have a look around on the eBay, basicepower etc, I'm sure I've see the parts there for your pump. I bought my parts there, even though my pump is different, the parts were 1/10th the price they were here in Australia."
 
"Sounds good, I'll check i

"Sounds good, I'll check it out.

Just frustrating how this part was manufactured - w/ NO longevity in mind. Not to get political / philosophical - but this is a perfect example of why so many economies are failing. Me, Joe-Blow, tax payer pays a premium for a new motor a few years ago and every replacement part is out-of-this-world expensive - and parts that should be restorable - are not because either someone had an oversight, didn't care, or designed it just this way so I'd have to buy a replacement - all unacceptable... And they charge a premium for it !!! For a couple of bucks more at tooling, they could have made this a maintenance item and not a replacement."
 
"That's capitalism at its

"That's capitalism at its best.

http://www.ebasicpower.com/

They have rebuild kits and parts and also sell the following:

Raw Water Pump, Mercruiser Engine, All Bronze
Code: JAB43210-0001
Weight: 9.94
Price: $369.95"
 
"Thx. I shot them an email to

"Thx. I shot them an email to see if that bronze pump will work I don't know if it will.

They also sell a mercruiser pump that will work, bit it does not come with an air blow-out set-up that mine has ( I don't even use this feature anyway ).

I'm pretty meticulous w/ my things - especially mechanical things - I just despise poorly made or designed things - because; there's no amount of care or maintenance that can avoid the pitfalls !"
 
"alan:

I think there are ma

"alan:

I think there are many people that feel the same way; I do. Many an engineer has been stifled by senior management after finding an answer to part failures such as the pump impeller.

"Since it won't kill very many people we can make it out of crappy materials and sell thousands of them and thereby increase our "bottom line."
biggrin.gif
"
 
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