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Bilge pump float switch

guyjg

Gold Medal Contributor
I am going to install a float

I am going to install a float switch to my bilge pump; which brand is the best one to use? Which brands should I avoid? Thanks.
 
"I have always used"RULE&#

"I have always used"RULE" pumps.It more of wiring them properly ,keeping the connections OUT of the bilge water."
 
"Bt Doctor:

Thanks. I hear


"Bt Doctor:

Thanks. I hear ya; I like to solder copper wires, seal w/liquid elec. tape and finally enclose it w/shrink tubing. Too many electric items are being made w/aluminum wire that has to be crimp connected. This switch will be wired to my deep cycle battery."
 
My recommendation is the one w

My recommendation is the one with the swinging float (fairly sure its a Rule) BUT... I would install it in the optional guard. It keeps junk in the bilge from interfering with the switch operation..
Re: wiring... I favor tin plated copper.
I crimp them then I carefully solder them (the actual wire crimped section) taking care that the solder does not wick up into the insulation. Then I crimp the insulation support portion of the connector.... Then seal with liquid tape and shrink. I've had connections done this way last 16 years (then I sold the boat and lost track)
 
"You do not mention whether th

"You do not mention whether this boat will be moored or not.
If you plan on mooring, you may want an "Un-Interruptible" power source for this float switch! If so, then the wiring changes schematically for the power to the float switch.... all else can remain the same.

For this I would recommend power be taken from the rear of your MBSS (Main Battery Selector Switch)...... # 2 terminal is usually a direct connection to your house bank.
If so, that is where I would pull this un-interruptible power from.... fused, of course.
(keep the Rat's Nests from your batteries by doing this)

The idea would be to have the ability to leave the boat unattended with the MBSS OFF, leaving power only to this emergency float switch.
An alarm or buzzer can be tied into the existing bilge pump helm switch wiring if you want to.

Post back.... and if this is a concern, someone can make a suggestion or two for you re; float switch elevation, etc. This becomes a little different as well. "
 
"AS long as we are on the subj

"AS long as we are on the subject...
My setup on (used on several single engined boats).
Twin batteries, one marine crank, the other crank/deep cycle.
A/B switch
Small bilge pump in the bottom of the bilge wired directly to the cran/deep cyle battey via fuse and auto switch as well as to a switch at the helm.
LARGE 2000+ GPH pump with autoswitch mounted 3 to 4 inches higher than the smaller bilge pump. This is permanently wired to the start battery with a manual switch aft.

I used to use a charge splitter but given the duty cycle of my boat, I just run the boat on the start/deep cycle battery after every couple of trips. There are some very good but a bit pricy charge controllers that fully charge the "off line" battery which a simple splitter won't do."
 
"Yep, BlueSeas makes some exce

"Yep, BlueSeas makes some excellent products in this line. Go to their web site...... Great stuff there! http://bluesea.com/products/7610

Where my logic (or what I think to be Logic) differs here, is that I never make any direct battery connections other than battery POS/NEG cables themselves...... I make no small gauge connections to any battery.

For these smaller circuits, I use an auxiliary fuse or breaker panel, and power this new panel from the "common" terminal of the MBSS.
However, my Float Switch power would come from the non interruptible "# 2 terminal"...... Not the "common"!

Just to be clear on my previous post..... IMO, we especially do not want any ON/OFF/AUTO bilge pump switch powering a bilge pump from the Helm. When the MBSS is OFF, THIS power will be DEAD if using the factory wiring (in most cases).
If fact...... we DO NOT want ANY switch in the path to our float switch.
We never want this float switch to be accidentally powered down.

If you don't moor, nor sleep on the hook occasionally, nor have a concern for this, then it's a moot point.
For me..... I want that puppy to work even when I am away from the boat with all O/B 12vdc power OFF.

Robert, a little off topic here..... but I have a large bank of 6 volt batteries on my Stbd side... of which is also my House Bank.
I do not have a cranking battery on this side...... I crank on this large house bank.
I have a solenoid "Jump System" from the Port "common" to Stbd "common" if need be.


All of us should keep our cranking battery in reserve when possible!
"
 
Ricardo:

Thanks for your in


Ricardo:

Thanks for your interesting information. I don't use a battery switch; one start/run battery for the boat and two deep cycle 12 volt batteries in series run the trolling motor. I plan on using one of the deep cycle batteries for the float switch power source to either the existing bilge pump or add a 500 GPM aux. pump. I only moor the boat a few weeks each year.
 
"Just a clarification of my ea

"Just a clarification of my earlier post...
The switch at the helm for the small bilge pump is a manual ON. The "auto" lead is hard wired (via a fuse)to the battery. And this is the only point that Ricardo and I disagree on ( a FIRST!)... I hard wire to the battery using the wingnut terminals instead of to the switch for one reason... to eliminate the battery to switch connection as a possible point of failure.

While my boat is not moored, the design of the hull is such that every drop or water that falls on it needs to get pumped out. Normally the boat has "full canvas" and very little water gets in. When we get bad storms I take down all the canvas and make the bilge pumps earn their living... reasoning... don't want to buy new canvas any sooner than I need to. Since I live only three blocks from where the boat lives this is a reasonable policy. When I leave town for any period of time, the canvas stays up.

BTW... the big pump on the cranking battery has never run...except on its twice a season test.
It's intended as catostrophe-only pump, i.e. to cope with those situations where a 360 GPH pump won't cut it."
 
Robert..I agree. to battery no

Robert..I agree. to battery not switch. The bilge pump is the only wire other than the mains to my batteries. Battery switches do fail. I do make use of a 3 way switch (on-off-auto) auto position while moored and off when on trailer layup. (transom plug out) I don't like any circuits live especially in wet environments..the wire corrodes much faster on the positive side when power is present.
 
"Rollie, I fully agree that an

"Rollie, I fully agree that an "each to his own" option should be honored!
Professionally, I won't and can't bring myself do a connection like you suggest (if I understood you correctly).
And for what it's worth..... a float switch "un-interruptible power connection" directly to the MBSS (main battery selector switch) as appose to a battery connection, does not involve any of the interior contacts of the MBSS.... it involves a simple "lug" connection using one of the existing stud terminals on the rear of the MBSS.
Schematically, this is the same as though the connection came directly from the battery bank..... but without some of the other issues that we run into!
We're not using the "Common" terminal for this! We're using either # 1 or # 2... for me, it's going to be # 2, my largest battery bank.

To boot, a good quality MBSS rarely fails!

Here is what I see all too often, and what I'll take great measures to avoid.
While this image does not fully show the potential for small terminal corrosion, corrosion here can and does exist on many boats where this practice is used. (this is an extreme example, but you'll get my point here)

http://www.encompassmarine.ca/encompass%20web%20pics%20001.jpg"

Please tell me that you don't want anything close to this in YOUR boat! LOL"
 
That picture is what I call &#

That picture is what I call "bird nesting"; a nightmare of unfused circuits. All of my circuits are fused individually at one buss box except for the power trim. The only other wires connected to the batteries are the chargers.
 
"Guy, that's good.
Howe


"Guy, that's good.
However, given a little more attention to the install, charger leads should NOT be making at a direct battery connection either. Again..... you've got the perfect and much more permanent connecting point right at the MBSS.
Just my opinion.
Here's an image of a typical and more correct O/B charger lead connection. http://www.cmsquick.com/schematic-g.jpg"

(The isolator shown would be better if it were an ACR unit)"
 
Ricardo:

I previously said


Ricardo:

I previously said I have one start/run battery for the boat and separate from it are two deep cycle 12 volt batteries in series to run the 24 vdc trolling motor. Two separate chargers are used; one for the start battery and a dual charger for the trolling batteries. I plan on using one of the deep cycle batteries for the float switch power source to either the existing bilge pump or add a 500 GPM aux. pump.
 
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