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70bs mercruiser vs Volvo Penta

searay57

Contributing Member
"*I posted this in volvo a

"*I posted this in volvo also but want both camps opinions*
A family member offered me a free 1978 bayliner victoria with a single I/O. From the research i have done there is a 75% chance it has a volvo penta sterndrive system. I am going to look at it tommorow so i will know for sure. I am completly unfamilar with volvo, after getting stuck with a boat that had omc stringer 800 I swore i would never own any thing but mercruiser again and dont want to get stuck with an I/O that breaks easily and is hard to get parts for and very expensive if you can find the parts.
Any info you can give me about late 70's volvo would be great ie.. common problems, reliability, repar cost, parts availability, and if this I/O setup is a deal breaker.
thank you"
 
"those mid 70's Volvo Pent

"those mid 70's Volvo Pentas are nothing to be worried about. Most would consider the VP drive superior to Mercruiser.
Parts for the drive are available, and it probably has a common Chevy engine.

Having a VP drive opens up the possibility of installing a Duoprop lower unit (bolt on) and that would be the sweetest thing on a big heavy Vic with a little 350 Chevy...."
 
They are by far the simplest o

They are by far the simplest outdrives too. If you want to change rotation you just switch the shifter cable and prop on the outdrive. If it's been taken care of it will be a good problem free drive especially the VP280. They will handle up to 300HP and the they are made for crappy conditions the swedish fishermen put them through.

Also El Pescador over in the VP forum is this forum's version of Guy Gaspar! A wealth of knowledge. The only thing I didn't like about my VP was the tempermental Volvo 4 banger engine that came with it.
 
"PugentSounder:

Thanks for


"PugentSounder:

Thanks for the vote of confidence. I try to remember the problems and repairs that I have done and those that I have read about.

However, I am dumber than a rock on many facets of boats. I do understand operation theories but have very limited internal engine and OD experience except for the impeller and cooling system. I haven't torn down an engine since 1970; it was a Fiat 2 cylinder. External engine parts, electrical wiring, ignition systems, two barrell carbs, boat structural rot, trailer brakes; I can fix."
 
"[QUOTE]*I posted this in

"
*I posted this in volvo also but want both camps opinions*
A family member offered me a free 1978 bayliner victoria with a single I/O. From the research i have done there is a 75% chance it has a volvo penta sterndrive system. I am going to look at it tommorow so i will know for sure. I am completly unfamilar with volvo, after getting stuck with a boat that had omc stringer 800 I swore i would never own any thing but mercruiser again and dont want to get stuck with an I/O that breaks easily and is hard to get parts for and very expensive if you can find the parts.
Any info you can give me about late 70's volvo would be great ie.. common problems, reliability, repar cost, parts availability, and if this I/O setup is a deal breaker.
thank you

Jeff, I was asked by one of your members to chime in. I am not new to forums, but did just join here.

I'd steer clear of this boat if it is not Volvo Penta and steer clear unless the transom is good.
That would be a "Deal Breaker" for me.

Some of this is a cut/paste from a post made by me on another boating forum whereby a member was considering a re-power from an OMC to a Volvo Penta and on an older hull....... He was trying to decide between the AQ series Volvo Penta (270, 280, 290 and so on) and the later Gimbal type SX or DP S style drive, of which allows some OMC parts to be used.
Some of this may pertain to your thread.... some may not!
Thought it may be worth the read for you:
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

Volvo Penta, as far back as the 60's, has used their patented Cone Clutch gear engagement system in their Auqamatic Drives.
IMO, this is by far superior to any dog clutch type gear engagement.

I'd suggest staying with the AQ series V/P. It is a stronger, more durable drive than the other two that would have been available during that year model! Dog Clutch engagement was the only other option during those years.

I can tell you first hand that parts are, and will be, available for years to come.
The Supply/Demand side keeps good used parts at an affordable cost (they do not break as often/ market is somewhat soft for these superior parts, IMO)

Here are several good reasons to stay with the v/p over that of the two other possibilities:

**Larger foot print against the structural transom.
**No Gimbal affair..... no engine alignment after install.
**No Rubber Hub drive coupler..... V/P uses the Borg Warner spline all steel coupler.
**No thru prop exhaust!
**Better steering geometry with the main suspension fork/pivot tube type system, IMO. Again... no Gimbal affair!
**Cone Clutch shifting in the transmission, not lower unit Dog Clutch shifting.
**The addition of the Duo Prop lower unit to any 250/270/275/280/290 SP and so on.
**Very easy drive bellows replacement... no Gimbal Bell to fight!
**No shift cable bellows!
**No "Shift Interrupt" system with cone clutch shifting. Smooth, no engine stalling with this type of shifting.
**No raw water pump in the drive. Easy to service Engine Mounted RW Pump.
**Not dependant on exhaust back-flow prevention flapper being at/on the bellows or Y pipe connecting area.
(Only the 280 production models could be found with this flapper...... a 290 flapper can be retro-fit to the 280 lower unti keeping the Exhaust Bellows clear!)


Comments and Items of concern:

Very highly reliability. Seldom any failures other than from deferred maintenance.

Good corrosion resistance if anodes are routinely replaced.... seems to be less problems with the AQ series in this regard. (my experience)

Primary Drive Shaft bearings/seals. Unfortunately, they get over-looked and don't get serviced and eventually fail! This is a maintenance issue moreso than a design issue.

Routinely replace the main drive bellows, seal, shift mech seal and all other O rings/gaskets just as you would in your OMC/Mercruiser drives.
These are among the easiest of all drives to do.

Lower unit seals. While in there, examine the gear set/bearings.

Reverse latch unit..... again, examine all parts... replace what's necessary.
This unit requires attention from time to time!

No offense to any M/C Alpha drive guys.... this is just my opinion after having worked on both for some time.

."
 
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