View Full Version : 2 x AQ 130s Exhaust elbows amp Distributer probs Part 2

08-26-2006, 05:49 PM
Well if any of you can remember my 1st post dealing with exhaust eblow replacement (last week)you may recall I was quite optomistic when I found a supplier here in the UK who delivered 2 new ones very swiftly all thanks to this forum. Armed with my two new elbows I attempted to replace them. Problem...Bolts holding old elbows in place are so corroded that they will prob need to be ground or cut off. The heads of the original bolts have totally collapsed and all bar the shouting made impossible to remove the bolts. I am gona have to have both engines lifted out of the boat to complete any work on this. Can anyone advise on how and where to seperate the leg from the engine to enable the lift. One good thing i suppose is that the 270 outdrives have been disabled as far as tilting is concerned. Ive got to replace these elbows as the risk of complete fracture is to great to gamble. Besides comman sence would state that if there is a complete fracture im gona be pumping water directly into the boat not the best idea ive ever heard of eh ? Please advice ???

08-26-2006, 06:28 PM
"Why pull the motors? It's easier to take the exhaust manifolds off with the risers still attached and have a machine shop separate them. If the bolts holding the exhaust manifolds don't want to come out you can drill or grind the heads off the bolts, then slide the manifolds off. Resist the temptation to try to unscrew these bolts uness they want to come RIGHT out. If you twist the bolts off in the block, the heads may have to come of to repair them.


PS: The headless bolts can be penetrating oil loosened and removed with pliers."

El Pescador
08-26-2006, 06:37 PM
"One suggestion. If the bolt heads are corroded, can you weld nuts where the bolt heads were before? If so, and since when welding the bolt it will absorb heat, you may be able to remove them without having to pull the engines out.

If the former is a no-go, then to separate the leg you will have to:

1) Remove the cover and disconnect the shift cable.

2) remove the bolt securing the steering helmet to the upper gear assembly.

3) Disconnect the two bellows and the water hose from the leg, then remove the hinge pins.

4) Slide the leg out (the u-joint yoke will slide out of the bell housing splined shaft) and remove the plate securing the shift cable (it is secured with two screws). Pull the cable out and place the leg on top of a piece of cardboard or plywood.

5) Remove the u-joint bellows from the bellhousing.

6) Remove the locking plates fromt he 6 bolts securing the circular flange to the bellhousing, then remove the 6 bolts.

You are now ready to pull the engine."

08-26-2006, 07:01 PM
thankyou both for your suggestions. Jeff i maybe being stupid (in my defence its been a long day) the bolts that are corroded are going straight into the engine head. almost under the carb ? Again you need to give me the idiots version im a printer by trade not engineer. Didnt even know where the spark plugs where last week. Iv had a hell of a learning curve more like a learning right angle i think. Would you be good enough to explain that again in laymans terms plz (i appreciate your patients) Thanks again ? I think welding is out as its so close to the transom you can hardly get a spanner down there but good idea i think. Cheers boys

El Pescador
08-26-2006, 08:15 PM
"Uno759, if you don't have one by now, I suggest you get hold of a copy of the Seloc or Clymer manuals for your engine and drive (buy both if you can afford it, they are not expensive). They contain basically all the information you need and no matter how mechanically-challenged you may be, you will find that you can do most of the stuff yourself by just following the instructions. Those manuals are a must for anyone who wants to do his own repairs and maintenance.

What I think Fastjeff was trying to tell you is that if you cut or grind away the heads of the bolts (or whatever is left of them) then you should be able to slide the exhaust manifold out of its place, so you won't have to pull the engine. Then, once the manifolds are out, you should be able to remove from the head whatever is left of the bolts with vise-grips, a pipe wrench, etc."