1970 60 hp Johnson starting problem

"My motor starts and restarts

"My motor starts and restarts fine out of the water on muffs. Every time I put it in the lake it starts within a minute or two after choking it. Then after driving a little while stopping and trying to restart it will sputter and then quit every time I turn the key. In order to get it restarted I have to wait about 30 minutes to an hour and it will start up again. Plus the fuel bulb goes limp every time it runs. It is almost like it floods after running it. I did the bulb test with the engine off by pumping the primer bulb until it is hard and with the front carb valves open and the rear carb valves closed I do not see any fuel leaking so I think the carbs are ok. Oh and choking it for a restart doesn't help either. Any ideas any help is appreciated.
Thanks,"

"You probably have a fuel supp

"You probably have a fuel supply restriction somewhere between the primer bulb and the tank (reason== the bulb goes limp). Either theres a fuel line kink or collapse, the pickup in the tank is plugged or the tank vent is plugged."

replace the plug on fuel conne

replace the plug on fuel connector that connects to the fuel tank and the motor or better still buy and complete fuel line with primer

"Matt.... Does that bulb actua

"Matt.... Does that bulb actually go flat, collapse, or are you saying that it simply doesn't stay hard? Most fuel bulbs lie horizontal and when running, the fuel level drops down to the halfway point which is normal.

(Compression & Spark Test)
(J. Reeves)

1st - Regardless of what problem one might encounter, always start with the basic troubleshooting procedure. Check the compression which should be in the range of 100+ psi (somewhat less on the smaller hp engines) and even on all cylinders.

2nd - With the spark plugs removed, rig up some type of spark tester whereas you can set a gap to be jumped. On magneto ignition systems.... and also the Battery Capacitance Ignition system OMC engines from 1968 to 1972, set the gap to 1/4". On the solid state OMC ignition systems from 1973 to the present, set the gap to 7/16". The spark should jump the gap with a strong blue lightning like flame..... a real strong blue snap!

If there was no spark, on engines from 1973 up, disconnect the RED main electrical plug at the engine. Remove the s/plugs. crank the engine via the starter solenoid (jumper bat term to small 3/8" term nut, not the ground nut) and observe spark. If spark is now okay as stated above, the usual cause is a shorted ignition switch.

If the above checks out as it should, and the engine dies out when throttle is applied or won't idle, it is usually due to one or both of two things. The carburetors are fouled, in which case the cure would be to remove, clean, and rebuild them..... or the timer base under the flywheel is sticking which would result in a retarded spark. If the engine will not fire/start at all even though you have the proper spark and compression, it's usually due to fouled carburetors.

To check the timer base for sticking (Engine Not Running), spin the prop to align the shifter dog with forward gear and while doing so, put the engine into forward gear. Now, while watching the timer base, slowly apply throttle clear up to full throttle. The timer base should move smoothly all the way up against the black rubber cap that is atached to the end of the full advance spark setting screw. If the timer base sticks, find out why and correct that problem.

Usually any sticking of the timer base is caused by one of the four retaining clamps being slightly too tight. Putting a very thin washer under the clamp cures that problem. Some boaters use a thin screwdriver to bend the clamp upwards slightly but I prefer the thin washer. The sticking can also be caused by having a faulty stator start to melt down, resulting in a sticky substance dripping down on the timer base nylon retaining ring."

Thank you everyone for your he

Thank you everyone for your help thus far. I tested spark and compression passing both tests. Compression was well above 100 on each cylinder. Spark shot out on each wire. I regapped the spark plugs which were a little closer than .30 and two of the little ends that screw on to the spark plugs were loose but still attached. The primer bulb isn't sucked in or anything after running just feels empty when I squeeze it. It is weird that it only happens to me on the water. It is a brand new gas tank. I didn't trust the old red OMC one I had. There was fuel on all of the plugs also. I know fuel comes out when I push the primer because I transferred a bunch of fuel with it a little while ago. And another weird thing is even after pumping the primer when it won't start on the water it doesn't help. I think if it was the timing it wouldn't start and run fine on muffs at the house. I think it must be flooding on the water somehow because it seems to help by opening up the throttle when it won't start. I guess a carb cleaning and float check is in order.

"Hi Guys,
I've got an old

"Hi Guys,
I've got an old '71 60hp Johnson that was starting great until the weekend. Basically I had it going (electric start), switched her off, then a couple of minutes later went to start it and heard a small "pop" from the motor followed by a click whenever I turn the key. I've yet to test the starter motor as there's power going to it, but I'm thinking it may be the solanoid that's the problem. It still starts and runs fine using the pull start. Any help would be greatly appreciated."

"Michael, I had a problem with

"Michael, I had a problem with my solenoid as well. We took a wire and jumped around the solenoid to be sure that it was the solenoid. Good luck. I have a website where I found the replacement. Let me know."