No fuel to the plugs

I have a Johnson mocel FDL-13

I have a Johnson mocel FDL-13 R Serial #1680305.
Problem- getting no fuel to the plugs.
I can choke it till fuel runs out of the carb. but
still no fuel on the plugs. I have good
compression when I pull on the rope.

"Strange happenings.... that m

"Strange happenings.... that much fuel pouring from the carburetor throat, even if the carburetor was fouled bad, should have resulted in the engine running for a short period of time.

You say compression is fine. What about the spark? With the spark plugs removed, the spark on that model should jump a 1/4" gap with a strong blue lightning like flame.... a real SNAP! Does it?

Simply checking the spark by having it jump across the plug gap is no good. You need a spark tester which might be found at a automotive parts store or one such as the home made one described below.

On that 1959 18hp Johnson, the spark plugs should be Champion J6C plugs, gapped at .030 .

Spark Tester - Home Made
(J. Reeves)

A spark tester can be made with a piece of 1x4 or 1x6, drive a couple nails through it, then bend the pointed ends at a right angle. You can then adjust the gap by simply twisting the nail(s). Solder a spark plug wire to one which you can connect to the spark plug boots, and a ground wire of some kind to the other to connect to the powerhead somewhere.

Using the above, one could easily build a spark tester whereas they could connect 2, 4, 6, or 8 cylinders all at one time. The ground nail being straight up, the others being bent, aimed at the ground nail. A typical 4 cylinder tester follows:


..........X1..........X2

.................X..(grd)

..........X3..........X4

Now, if you have good compression and spark as explained above, assuming that both leaf plate valves are not broken (which is very unlikely), and the engine still won't start and run, the most likely cause is a fouled, clogged, gummed carburetor. In which case, the cure would be to remove, clean, and rebuild it. Carb adjustments follow:

(Carburetor Adjustments - Two Adjustable N/Vs)
(J. Reeves)

Initial settings are: Bottom high speed = seat gently, then open 1 turn out. Top slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

Setting the high and low needle valves properly:

NOTE: For engines that DO NOT have a shift selection, obviously there is no NEUTRAL position. Simply lower the rpms to the lowest setting to obtain the low speed needle valve adjustment.

(High Speed) Start engine (it will run pretty rough), shift into forward gear, take up to full throttle. In segments of 1/8 turn, waiting for the engine to respond between turns, start turning in the bottom high speed needle valve. You'll reach a point whereas the engine will either start to die out or spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the needle valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest setting.

(Low Speed) Slow the engine down to where it just stays running. Shift into neutral. Again in segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the top needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running. Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back. Again, at that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

When you have finished the above adjustments, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway."

To Joe Reeves

Found a bad s

To Joe Reeves

Found a bad set of points.
What is the gap setting?
How do you set spark advance?
What should the fuel ratio be
for this 1959 18 Hp?
Also what should the copmression be?

"Points = .020 . Spark advance

"Points = .020 . Spark advance is set with linkage, not adjustable. Mixture 24/1 (1Qt oil to 6gal gas). Compression should be about 80 psi or better and even on both cylinders."