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Itbs boat show season tips for first time buyers

galamb

Silver Medal Contributor
"I'm posting this mostly b

"I'm posting this mostly because I like to hear myself talk


Hopefully some other will add in their two cents.

Inevitably, a year from now a number of first time owners will post questions on sites like this asking all kinds of questions about the performance (or lack of) with their new rigs.

If you are planning on buying a new boat, and yes, boat show deals can be quite decent, make sure you do your homework before you see that sleek looking new boat with that high tech gadget they call a motor hangin' off the back that has been reduced by "x" number of dollars.

My suggestions, which apply primarily to outboard powered rigs 20' or less are as follows:

Buy something at least a foot longer and a little wider than you "think" you want - after 2 days on the water you will wish you had...

Package dealers like Tracker or Legend (Canada) put out some very enticing offers. Boat/Motor/Trailer at bargain basement prices. But be serious. Are you going to be happy pushing a 16 1/2 footer with a 50 horse motor. Not likely.

So while the price will jump significantly, put a reasonable motor on the back. 80% of the maximum rating is the rule of thumb. If the boat needs a 90 horse to perform correctly, there is nothing you can do to that 50 horse that will make a noticable difference.

If you want electric start, get it now. It will cost triple the price difference to add it later.

Consider the maintenance costs with an outboard. A 4 stroke will need service, at minimum, twice a year - can you do it yourself? Yes, you have an option - direct injected 2 strokes require less maintenance and are just as clean and efficient.

Don't buy into all the 4 stroke "hype". Yes, they are clean running and little quieter than old style 2 strokes, and do save a bit of gas (but not to the extent you may think).

Merc still produces a 2 stroke 90 horse (available on package deals mostly). At cruise speed it's sound level is the equivalent of a 90 4 stroke at WOT. Won't exactly make your ears bleed if "noise" is a major factor for you.

Unless you need a C.A.R.B. rated motor because of the waters you plan to run on consider a 2 stroke if still available. Additionally, if you are the average boater and will run less than 100 hours a year, it could take 10-20 years to recover the initial cost difference in price compared to the amount of fuel saved by "upgrading" to a fuel effient 4 stroke or DFI motor.

These can be compared to current "hybrid" cars. By the time you are actually saving money, the car is ready for the scrap heap...

Pontoon boats are nothing more than a "powered raft". While there are some new developments which include a 3rd pontoon in the middle to mimic a planing hull these WERE NOT designed to bomb up and down the lake pulling skiers.

Most have the hydrodynamics of a stone and were meant for "putting" around the lake and "catching some rays". If you want a ski boat, don't buy a "toon".

Kicker motors are great. Can use them to troll or even get you back to the dock incase your main motor acts up. My advice on them - do NOT buy a single cylinder 4 stroke kicker. That flywheel has 720 degrees between power strokes (since every second revolution is exhaust). It will idle like crap the minute the "new" wears off and no matter how many times you take it in and have it tuned, it will shake like a wet dog on a cold day.

If you can live with that, fine - otherwise, move up to the smallest twin cylinder you can use.

The cost of gas this past summer caused alot of people to back off a bit in their "pursuit of speed". Do yourself a favour and buy something you can afford to run or it will sit at the dock or in the driveway quietly depreciating in value.

Yes, a 200 horse on an 18 footer may be able to cap out at 60 mph, but can you afford the 20 gallons per hour in gas it will burn to achieve that?

If that's what you are really interested in check out a decent used boat that "some guy" bought last year and found he couldn't afford to run and is now selling at a very deep discount.

I guess it all comes down to 1) do your homework 2) know what you want 3) be realistic about the operating costs 4) don't settle for something less just because the price sounds great and

5) if you are unsure or have questions, ask in places like this. We are not trying to sell you anything and you will probably get a more honest opinion than from the guy trying to make a comission off of you..."
 
"Graham, Thanks for the sweat

"Graham, Thanks for the sweat equity on this post.
I might add, choose a hull for the water you intend to frequent and the intended use. Deck boats, trihulls or bows that dip down aren't good for open water waves. Adaquate fuel capacity and reserve oil.
Trailer set up is important. Proper tires, spare, bearing protectors, boat load distribution. Saltwater compatible finish, light placement.
Don't forget, plenty of life jackets, a tool kit, signaling devices, first aid kit, weather radio, communication radio/cell phone, proper anchor, ropes, spare bulbs. The list goes on!!"
 
"You both missed the most impo

"You both missed the most important part of buying a first boat. Take a power squadran coarse and like taking a first car to a big empty forgiving parking lot.... practise docking and operating in a safe place, get to know how your boat handles, its capabilities, your capabilities... all before you hit he big water. Oh and almost forgot...practise backing that trailer up in that big empty parking lot. Nothing more frustrating than getting up in the middle of the night, getting to the ramp 2nd and suffering through the first arrivals multiple attempts at getting the boat into the water."
 
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