43 still water in oil

See earlier post about water i

See earlier post about water in oil. Now I have pressure tested each cylinder with 50 psi air at TDC and looked for bubbles in water were t-stat housing sits. NO bubbles. I removed exhaust manifolds and found both flappers were missing in pipe. Replaced flappers. Ran full speed for 1 hour. Still have steam coming from valve cover vents. Can some water still be left on bottom of oil pan? Temp is 165-170. Dipstick never shows any oil at all. When I change oil I only get a little over 3 qts. out with pump. Engine runs perfect. Never misses on start-up or any time. Where am I getting this friggen water in my engine????

"Is Your oil getting 'milk

"Is Your oil getting 'milky', or is it just the foam in the valve covers?
As for the dipstick, I would check that You have the correct length on it!"

"The oil on the dipstick never

"The oil on the dipstick never shows any sign of being milky, it looks new- I just changed it. The oil I pumped out was golden brown in color, no signs of water. All the white mayonnaise looking stuff is in the valve covers and oil cap. I removed and cleaned them again before todays run. I measured the oil I pumped out because it looked less than four qts. I put back in same amount and dipstick reads full. The dipstick tube that I pump out of looks like it does not go all the way to the bottom of the pan."

Are You haveing a car engine b

Are You haveing a car engine block and set up?
On the cobras the dip stick and suction tube should go to the botom of the oil pan and be connected where the drain plug normally is. Furthermore the oil pan is different from the cars. Does the valve covers have vent hoses attached to the flame arrestor?

"I am the second owner of this

"I am the second owner of this Four Winns and as far as I know this is the stock OMC 4.3 Cobra. The oil drain is fitted with a right angle elbow attached to the dipstick tube. Looks same as parts list on DougRussel. I am thinking I should suck out oil again ,remove elbow and fully drain pan into bilge. Maybe there is a small amount of water in the very bottom of pan."

If you checked with the piston

If you checked with the pistons at TDC the valves would be closed. If there is a crack in one of the exhaust or intake ports it may not show up if the valves are still sealing.
Try the air test with the intake and exhaust valves open to rule out a cracked port.
This will require sealing the intake and exhaust so the only way for the air to get out will be through a leak in the ports into the water jacket.

I just had the valves ground a

I just had the valves ground and two replaced 30 hrs ago. The shop that did them did not magnaflux them but said no visible cracks.How would I seal intake and exhaust to hold 50 psi?

"You may probably air pressure

"You may probably air pressure test to dooms day without finding the crack! The 'only' way that may give You an answer is probably by running, with pressure, 90C hot water through the block, and that You may not probably do in the boat! If there is a 'crack' it is next to impossible to find unless You have the block heated and puts the pressure from the side of which You have the leak : the cooling system.
Be sure You have no water in the oil sump, the cranck case ventilation is working (hoses from valve covers to flame arrestor correctly attached) and try a different oil intended for marine engine use."

"You might simply still have r

"You might simply still have reidual water in the motor, especially since your less than perfect oil changing technique is not getting all the oil out.

Jeff"