"G'day!
I have a '93
"G'day!
I have a '93 Mercury Sport Jet 90 in a Bayliner Jazz. This is essentially a Merc outboard mounted to the chassis and with a direct drive impeller system.
The trouble is that the ignition kill circuit is faulty. To start the engine, I can pull apart the black/yellow wire near the ignition control module on the engine; the engine won't turn off, even with the key switched off and removed, till I reconnect that kill circuit.
The kill circuit is engaged all the time. I have determined, to the best of my ability, that the kill circuit runs from the keyed ignition switch, to a deadman switch (with a lanyard to attach to the driver in case the driver is tossed overboard), to a rev limiter, and then to the ignition control module on the engine.
I started at the deadman switch, and it ohms-tests as open with the lanyard attached, and as shorted with the lanyard yanked -- this is with the two wires UNattached to the switch. With the two wires attached, there is a short (ground) read across the leads no matter which position the deadman switch is in.
This means that there is a faulty short in the circuit somewhere else. I therefore replaced the ignition switch, but that didn't fix the problem.
The entire wiring harness is in great shape, and the wiring harness bundle that has a multiple-wire connection at the engine is clean and corrosion-free and still has waterproof grease in it.
This leaves me with a fault in either the rev limiter or the ignition control module, as I see it.
Does anybody have any experience they can share with me here before I start buying even more parts?
Thanks!
--Jim"
I have a '93
"G'day!
I have a '93 Mercury Sport Jet 90 in a Bayliner Jazz. This is essentially a Merc outboard mounted to the chassis and with a direct drive impeller system.
The trouble is that the ignition kill circuit is faulty. To start the engine, I can pull apart the black/yellow wire near the ignition control module on the engine; the engine won't turn off, even with the key switched off and removed, till I reconnect that kill circuit.
The kill circuit is engaged all the time. I have determined, to the best of my ability, that the kill circuit runs from the keyed ignition switch, to a deadman switch (with a lanyard to attach to the driver in case the driver is tossed overboard), to a rev limiter, and then to the ignition control module on the engine.
I started at the deadman switch, and it ohms-tests as open with the lanyard attached, and as shorted with the lanyard yanked -- this is with the two wires UNattached to the switch. With the two wires attached, there is a short (ground) read across the leads no matter which position the deadman switch is in.
This means that there is a faulty short in the circuit somewhere else. I therefore replaced the ignition switch, but that didn't fix the problem.
The entire wiring harness is in great shape, and the wiring harness bundle that has a multiple-wire connection at the engine is clean and corrosion-free and still has waterproof grease in it.
This leaves me with a fault in either the rev limiter or the ignition control module, as I see it.
Does anybody have any experience they can share with me here before I start buying even more parts?
Thanks!
--Jim"