Just what is needed to winterize a Aq151 with 290sp

"just curious since I have nev

"just curious since I have never owned a volvo that used antifreeze, just what is needed to winterize this unit? other then the greasing the lower unit and probably a gear oil change. is their anything needed on the engine side?"

"Briefly, it involves changing

"Briefly, it involves changing oil and filter in the engine, close the fuel valve and run the engine until it runs out of fuel, add fuel stabilizer, spray the cylinder walls with rust preventing oil, drain the water from the raw water side, etc. You may want to get hold of a copy of the SELOC manual for your engine. The procedure is described in Chapter 11.

In addition to what SELOC says, I recommend that you spray the whole engine (including alternator, starter, distributor, coil, etc) with Fluid Film (WD40 is too thin) to prevent corrosion. Pay special attention to the timing gears, as they are very prone to corrosion."

And what about the raw water s

And what about the raw water side of the cooling system!

Jeff

'Lubricating' the timi

'Lubricating' the timing gears for the belt?

"Yes, Morten, I lightly spray

"Yes, Morten, I lightly spray them with Fluid Film before storing the boat for the winter (in fact, I do the same thing with the timing gears of my 9.9 Yamaha 4-stroke kicker). I found this works really well when you operate in salt water. I have done this for years without experiencing any negative side effects, and the benefit I noticed is that the gears do not corrode/pit if you don't use the boat for a long period of time. As you know, when the timing gears get pitted they turn like sandpaper and will eat a timing belt in a matter of hours."

"I think it would be nice if Y

"I think it would be nice if You speciefied the fluid You use a bit moe excactly. I have made some bucks in my time replacing and retiming after winterizations like that after the belt has slipped at first start up in spring. Doing this on the twin cam 171 is next to suicide. I would rather see to that the engine room is clean from salt, dry and well ventilated during storage. Change the belt and if needed the gear every 5 years and there would be no problem (they should last around 10 years). Most of the corrosion takes part during the warm season when there is allways some salt spray/water around in the engine room.
No disrespect El Pescador, but there is a difference when the 'experts' do a job and the 'amateurs'. The later may have a tendancy to owerdo to be on the safe side.
As for Fastjeffs comment about the raw water side, I would recommend to suck in a 50% anti freeze mix in the system. Keeps scaling off the manifold. As I allways took the drives off, I used the water hose on the outside and extended it into a bucket. Started the engine, and at the same time used one or two cans of Fogging oil into the carbs. No need to unscrew pluggs etc if this is done, and You even protect valve seats and exhaust ports. I never ran the carbs empty, but had a 3 gal outboard tank with the 'Ficht' mix (2+4, fogging oil, fuel). If those carb bowls are left dry, You might as well put in some termites! On metal parts I used the OMC Anti corrosion. Leaves a wax film and does not smell when engine heats up after restart."

PS: Note that the anti freeze

PS: Note that the anti freeze in the engine needs to be replaced every two years as the rust preventive ability is reduced by time.

"Morten, I already metioned th

"Morten, I already metioned that I use "Fluid Film", this is the name brand. This product is virtually identical to the Mercury/Quicksilver "Corrosion Guard". Check this link, including the FAQs:

http://www.nlsproducts.ca/ff_e.html

If you read my post, I clearly mention that I "lightly spray" the timing gears, just to cover them enough to displace humidity. I agree with you that soaking them in any type of lubricant would not be a solution, as this is clearly a case when more is not better but rather the opposite. Also, I have never experienced slippage of timing belts with the use of Fluid Film and I don't think that should occur as long as the tensioner works correctly."

"I think Morten highlighted &#

"I think Morten highlighted "slipping" in regards to the AQ171 DOHC engine since that is an interference engine, ie if valves open incorrectly, you'll end up with a broken valve, a broken piston, a bent connecting rod, or all/a combination of them. Pricey!

As for winterzing, it is VERY easy on the Volvos to suck up a glycolmix and fill the sea/raw water circuit. If you do not remove the drive, you can just disconnect between impeller pump and drive shield, cnnect a hos and let it "suck".

Also, do not forget to LOWER the drive, both to drain water, but alos to relieve stress on the bellows over winter."