"I was able to find the new OE
"I was able to find the new OE parts for my 1987 remote at this email:
[email protected]
If you go to your local library you might borrow a service manual. If you repair it youself, use a digital camera to take photos each time you remove a part and also take notes. Viewing the photos on a 19" LCD screen is much better than a B&W book picture.
Before you do anything, disconnect the trim motor and battery ground cables. Then shift into neutral. Remove the handle by removing the set screw at the botton of the handle and gently pull it outward but not all the way. Try to mark the position of the big washer behind the handle--it only works in one position and can easily be put in the wrong position. Use a scribe or nail to scratch it and the housing for repositioning it. Pull off the IDLE button and disconnect the trim switches from the harness inside the handle by carefully prying open the wire connection plastic holder. The wires are color coded; just unplug each one. I taped them together to slide them thru the opening in the handle above the shaft opening. Check them for cracks at the crimp point, especially the red wire; mine broke twice in two years that is why I replaced the 19 yr old harness assy and switches. The original factory installer did not leave sufficient wire length for it to move within the wire holder and in the handle. The wire would break at the crimp point.
If you replace the switches and trim harness, you might want to slip shrink tubing over the the point where the wire is crimped to the pin--it protects the connection from corrosion and adds strength to the connection. Make sure you only use about a 1/2" to 3/4" thin piece for each wire covering just over the crimped edge of the pin to just past the bare wire--about 3/16" will be enough when it shrinks. Use a long shaft BIC lighter on low to apply heat to shrink it.
After it starts to cool off insert them into the plastic pin holder and press them into place before you snap it shut and fit it into the handle shaft. Mold the wires around (2 per side)the screw bases on each end and position them in an "S" type pattern to give them room to move while not rubbing on each other. Add a little lube on the rub points to reduce friction and wear thru. If you have a squeeze the handle to shift, make sure the shift pin is put back in the correct position and check the lube inside the handle. Just a little grease goes a long way.
Next, remove the screws holding the assy. in place and remove the it from the back of the panel if a sidemount.
I worked on mine with a white clean rag spread over a cookie sheet with sides. Remove the back cover and take some photos for later reference. If you see that the grease is hardened, then you will want to remove or clean around some parts to clean it out--DO NOT REMOVE THE BIG SPRING--YOU'LL NEVER GET IT BACK ON AND CHANCE LOOSING SMALL PARTS WHEN IT FLIES ACROSS THE ROOM. I used brake clean with paper shop towels and compressed air with a small tube to pinpoint the air. I replaced the old grease with a good synthetic grease--use it sparingly. Coat the parts at contact points only. Someone told me to use vaseline. To remove the throttle and shift cables, the throttle was on the top and easy to unscrew the clamp enough to slip it off. The shift cable is under the other half gear. You'll need to rotate the gear enough to be able to loosen the nut with a wrench--box end ratchet type works well. Do not operate the shift cable except enough to see if it is not seized. Also check the throttle cable for easy movement and lube it. They can be lubed at this point--I used speedometer liquid graphite lube but it is messy. Hold the cable straight up with a rag around your hand and slowly drip the lube onto the cable shaft while working it back and forth. If you shift gears, remember to put it back in neutral. Also remember the position of the plastic barrell spacers where the cables are clamped. Don't remove the neutral safety microswitch, just gently clean it using a Q tip with brake clean on the cam of the half gear and the roller on the switch, then apply a small amount of lube to the cam and a little speedo. lube on the roller. The switch is used to prevent starting the engine while in gear. You can test it with an ohm meter set on the 1K scale. It should be "0" ohms with a stable reading in the off cam position. It is a "push to break" switch. Push the button and it should read infinity without any fluctuation. Any reading other than those you should replace the switch. Look for cracks in the switch housing and replace it if you find any. If it is old and has seen a few thousand shifts I would replace it now. The switch is held in place with two lock nuts over two threaded pins that are pressed into the plate. Mine had one broken off so I replaced it with a stainless screw and lock washer and nut from the local hardware store. You can also epoxy it in place if you scuff and clean the plate with alcohol. Drill two to four 1/16" holes thru the plate under the switch for the epoxy to have fingers to hold it in place.} Good luck and take your time--photos and notes are a big help.
If you plan on replaceing the switch, wait until you get the new one before removing the old. It is much easier to solder the wires to the switch before installing it. Use shrinkwrap on the soldered connections after they cool. If you put it in backwards, you'll crush it the first time you shift gears since it won't clear the cam.
When reassembling, there are two adjustments, a friction screw and detent screw with a ball bearing adjustment. They are black plastic screws next to each other. They are very easy to adjust. During disassembly, count the # of turns and record the # for each screw so when you reassemble it you have the adjustment recorded. Where the wires exit the control box to the trim pump, there is a clamp holding it down. When you remove it there will be a spring loaded shift pin under it that extends thru the half gear. There will be a ball bearing on the outside or plastic cap, then the spring, next the shift pin, looks like a .22 LR cartridge followed by a ball bearing. I used a magnetic probe to remove them. Assmble it in reveerse order."
