External resistor smoking

"I'm still trying to get m

"I'm still trying to get my early 70's boat going.
I replaced almost everything on there now for electronics.
New Coil, Distributor, Starter, Solenoids, Plugs, Plug Wires and so on.
I tried to start the engine (250 GM Inline 6) however after a few minutes of cranking and waiting the external resistor started to smoke, I dont know if it might just have been some oil on it or what. Are these resistors supposed to get hot like this?
Is an engine going to start if the alternator is hooped? Thats about the only part I didnt change yet, and judging by all other electronics parts condition I would not be surprised if the alternotar is not working anymore.
Will any outomotive Alternator work or does it have to be a specific kind?

here my original thread [url=""]http://www.marineengine.com/discus/messages/12488/21005.shtml[/url]"

Is there oil on the resistor?

Is there oil on the resistor? Even if the wire going to the distributor is grounded (which is how the circuit works) it should not smoke the resistor.

Jeff

PS: THe alternator is not working at cranking speed.

"well its not smoking anymore.

"well its not smoking anymore. must have had some oil on it.
However I cannot get this engine running.
New fuel pump, carburetor, Coil, Distrubitor, Plugs and wires.
I have fuel at the carb, I have spark at the plugs (checked by taking one out and holding it on to the block while cranking) but it still will not fire, not even once.
What should I try???


BTW: I have a boat for sale, lots a new parts, perfect for handy man. "

"You say distributor above, ha

"You say distributor above, has it ever fired since you changed it? Possibly not in right so your timing is way off?"

No never has fired. Tried read

No never has fired. Tried readjusting according to book. #1 cylinder TDC line up mark etc.
but no luck there.

"I don't have a wiring dia

"I don't have a wiring diagram that goes back that far but most engines feed 12v directly to the coil during start (cranking) and not through the ballast, once engine is started then a different circuit goes through the ballast resistor or wire that knock the volts down to around 8 or 9. Do you get 12v at the coil during cranking? Also you may want to double check the distributor install again, see link for some help. I've heard of guys setting it up for when the piston comes up in cyl 1 on the exhaust stroke instead of the compression stroke...good luck!http://www.misterfixit.com/distrib.htm"

"ok, I had it running shortly,

"ok, I had it running shortly, I guess I was on the wrong stroke. However when it was running the distributor wasnt inserted all the way (oil shaft i guess) since i could not get it to go in all the way I pulled it out again. (should have re read some links first)
So I know it will run. My Question might seem dumb to you but here it goes anyway.

How can you tell if your #1 is coming up on the exhaust stroke or the compression stroke? Is there a difference something I can watch for without having to take a valve cover off?"

"If you put your thumb over th

"If you put your thumb over the spark plug hole you should feel it trying to push away as you are building compression because both valves should be closed, if coming up on the exhaust stroke you won't build the compression as the exhaust valve should be open."

"it is running!!!!!! [img][/im

"it is running!!!!!! thanks for the tips...

now on to the next "stupid" question.

I noticed the lower gearcase has no oil in it.
So of course I tried to put some in, just one problem, I cant get any in. So I reread the manual. It says to fill the oil in through the drain plug till the oil appears at the upper vent / level. How is that supposed to work? Oil flows upward? Am I supposed to check the levels with the leg in raised position or lowered. (this must be something any boater knows since the book does not mention it.)
Sorry for all these newby questions, and I am really thankful for all the advice I get here."

Best investment you can make i

Best investment you can make is to buy one of the little cheapy hand pumps that attach to the bottle of lube. You want to pump it in from the bottom as this pushes the air out the top to ensure the gearcase is completely filled with lube and no air. Drive should be in the down position when checking and when running the engine. Please don't run it anymore until you fill it with lube as the gears and shafts are turning when engine is running and also don't run it with drive in the UP position as you will destroy the ball gears. Also hate to ask this but are you running this on a trailer and if so do you have a water hose attached for cooling? If not you've probably already toasted/melted your raw water impeller. Also sounds like you could really use a manual for that engine/drive. You can order from this site or check on eBay.

"Thanks Bob will see if I can

"Thanks Bob will see if I can find one of them handpumps around here.
I do have a Clymers manual for this unit however it seems to be a little vague in certain areas.
Thanks for the tips about running it. I do have it on the trailer. I never ran it more then may be 30-45 seconds I hope that wasnt long enough to do any damage. I tried sticking the lower leg in to a tub with water but I couldnt find a tub that was deep enough to bring the waterline high enough.
Also bought some "rabbit ears" (think thats what the store guy called them) that are supposed to attach around the lower leg over the water intake holes, however I could not find these holes on my drive. Do they not exist on older OMC drives?
Where could I get replacement oil and vent plugs for older OMC's 1973? Local NAPA dealer says he cannot get them."

"Try this link to get to an ex

"Try this link to get to an exploded parts view of your drive once there select engine diagrams and then select products SD and then your year and the sub assembly, once you get the PN's try any local BRP or Johnson/Evinrude dealer http://www.evinrude.com/en-US/Accessories/Introduction.htm"