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AQ130C warm up cooling issue

am_dew

Advanced Contributor
"After I start my AQ130C (

"After I start my AQ130C (raw water cooled) after launching, while the engine is warming up I have to keep a very close eye on the water temp. gauge for a while to be sure that the water pump is pushing water thru the engine. If I notice that the water temp is rising higher than normal, I give the engine a few quick revs and the water temp then starts to drop. I run the engine during "warm up" at about 1000 RPM. I recplaced the water pump impeller about a month ago and checked it a few outings later to find it in good shape. The water pump is fairly new...3-4 years old. Once the water pump is pushing water thru the engine, everything is fine after that and the engine runs like a champ with no overheating issues for the rest of the day and although I always keep a close eye on the temp gauge anyway, ths "warm up" issue does not repeat itself when restarting after a stop (ie. after shoring the boat and taking a lunch break). I'm wondering if I should increase the "warm up" RPMS to about 1500 to see if that helps get water circulating right away? Any other ideas or suggestions? Thanks."
 
"What happends when You launch

"What happends when You launch is that You get an air-buble in the system, probably when You pull the boat out of water. When You stop at sea, the pump is below the waterline and siphon effect keeps it filled. Check all water hoses and clamps to be sue there are no leaks, You may have 'vacum' leak without haveing a pressure leak. Hopefully You have not installed a sea water strainer before the pump, if so it has to be below waterline."
 
"Thanks Morten. I have not in

"Thanks Morten. I have not installed a sea water strainer and have no reason to believe anyone else has either. I have the V/P 270 outdrive...does that even have a sea water strainer, I wonder? And if it does, how easy is it to get to in order to check/clean?"
 
i installed a clear plastic ho

i installed a clear plastic hose just before the waterpump to see if i was getting air bubbles...turns out my elbow at the top of the leg was sucking air..
 
> Check your water hose co

> Check your water hose connection on the intermediate housing..

Can this be done without pulling the drive?
 
Re: Sea water strainer

I&#3


Re: Sea water strainer

I've seen some units made by Shurflo that are much cheaper than the one linked to. Are they suitable?

I still wonder if there is one in the 270 leg that can be accessed to clean/replace?
 
"There is no strainer inside t

"There is no strainer inside the leg, and the hose connector can be replaced without pulling the drive.

Regarding the strainer, I picked the San Juan Engineering type for my boat because of its rugged construction, durability and simplicity. The ontly thing that can ever go wrong is the cover, which is just made of Plexiglas and easy to replace. Obviously, there are cheaper strainers around that will do the job just fine (most of the newer types are made in China), but you usually get what you pay for."
 
"If not mistaken the AQ130 imp

"If not mistaken the AQ130 impeller is the same as the 'small diesel' impellers with 6 wings. On my Yanmar I had a similar problem with the same basic pump, but in a different configuration. To make it short, I changed to a Jabsco 12 wing impeller and that really made a difference."
 
"Yes, the AQ130C impeller has

"Yes, the AQ130C impeller has 6 wings. It makes sense that one with 12 wings would work more efficiently than one with 6. I think the problem would be finding one with 12 wings that matches up to the OEM impeller. Also, what about the gaskets? Assuming I could find an impeller with 12 wings that matches the OEM one, would the gaskets that come with that impeller match up to my water pump since they are made for a different pump? Seems unlikely. How did you resolve that issue Morten?"
 
"In my opinion, the best impel

"In my opinion, the best impeller in the world will not solve your problem if the pump is sucking air through a rotted hose connector in the sterndrive, or if there is an obstruction in the system (exhaust manifold, heat exchanger, strainer)."
 
"El Pescador, you are absolute

"El Pescador, you are absolutely correct. I plan on checking that hose connector and a few other things first. Can you give me an idea where this connector is on the 270 leg, how I can get to it (if not obvious), and what I should be looking for? Thanks!"
 
"Not a question of solving a m

"Not a question of solving a mechanical problem, but to my experience the 12 wing impeller is less reluctant to have the wings shot off due to exhaust back pressure, catches the water quicker if the system is dry (from trailering if drained etc). A bit more pricy, may extend pump life, next to a 'Petronix' in the cooling system: less maintanance! But mechanical defects, has to be fixed first!
As for cross reference, Jabsco has a cross list and they are all more or less Jabsco and Johnson pumps out there Volvo, Yanmar, Westerbeke, Ford ...... Jabsco even has gaskets for the Johnson pums."
 
"Bob, the hose connector is in

"Bob, the hose connector is in the intermediate housing, where the raw water cooling hose is attached. Remove the hose and make sure that the hose connector is not disintegrating. This is how the hose connector looks like:

http://www.marineengine.com/parts/part_details.php?pnum=SIE18-2778&returntopage= 80240788.htm

or

http://www.marineengine.com/parts/part_details.php?pnum=SIE18-2777&returntopage= 80240788.htm

Morten, I agree 100% with your point about the impeller. Life has taught me that there is no substitute for experience, and I (like many others) truly value yours."
 
"Morten, El Pescador: I great

"Morten, El Pescador: I greatly appreciate your insights on this issue. While I am very capable, you both obviously have much more experience than I do and fully agree that there is no substitute for experience. My situation, and I'm sure many others here, is such that I cannot afford to take my boat to a mechanic every time something comes up. I am not afraid to tackle projects in which I have no/little experience as long as it's feasible to do so (ie. considering cost of special tools, overly complex, etc.), but I also make sure I gather as much information before just diving in...hence my posting here and gathering valuable information from generous people like you for which I am very grateful."
 
"Bob:
I hope wi did not make


"Bob:
I hope wi did not make You confused with our small sideline discussion in the midle of Your tread. I can assure You that our main goal is to solve the problem in the tread, that is mainly why we are here. Sometimes however we (us 'problemsolvers') may do some small comments betwen ourselves, mainly related to the problem, but may be for the ones not too experienced a bit confusing. I may though ensure You that in the most El Pescador and I agree, even if we may have some 'issues' that we sometimes teases a bit about. I had my main occupation in a country where engines older than 15-20 years hardly exists, in particular theese old Volvos and I enjoy trying to keep Yours alive as long as possible, but within reason.
We had the boats in water 6 months of the year and then up for winter storage, You seem to launch and pull them out almost every time. You seem to keep the drives on, and only take them off if some trouble makes it needed after some 10 years, I took them off every year! Is it needed? Tecnically yes, it is the only way to get spline shaft greased, bellows, waterhose, shift cable, pivot bolts etc checked.
The main problem with theese old egines are corrosion and cooling. The best way to keep that under controle is to do an anual check and have all bolts etc properly greased. After a couple of times You may take of and install the drive in less than 1/2 hour, save You both $$$$ and peace of mind when driving as You know that one of the most critical part is in working order.
As for the hose connector, the original Volvo replacement is in nylon/plastic, I am not sure about the Sierra."
 
"Morten, no I was/am not confu

"Morten, no I was/am not confused at all.

A little history of my old boat. My father bought it brand new in 1972...our "family boat" it was. As an older teenager and young adult, I spent many hours cruising in that boat as well as water skiing and tubing behind it. My father treated the boat very well and always kept it in excellent condition...it has only seen saltwater a few times in it's lifetime and is now used exclusively in freshwater. About 7 years ago, my father gave me the boat. The engine was pretty tired by this time and needed replacement/rebuild, and since the rest of the boat was in great shape, I decided to repower it with a Volvo factory rebuilt AQ130C engine, which I purchased and had installed by a local dealer. To make a long story short, 2 engines went bad very quickly (excessive oil pan pressure and piston blow-by) and were replaced under warranty by Volvo, but the 3rd engine has been working great for the past 3 seasons. During the time the other two engines went bad, the dealer went thru my entire cooling system and drive looking for potential problems. During that process he replaced my u-joints, water pump, outdrive water hoses, de-scaled the exhaust manifold, and a few other minor things. This third engine has turned out perfectly and has given great service thus far...the boat has never run better, even better than when it was brand new. I understand about the need for periodic maintenance, checking, etc. and I do what I can do myself or what I can afford to have someone do for me, but at the same time I also know this boat is working on "borrowed time" and so I don't want to dump too much money into it either. But, I do what I can to keep the old classic running as best I can and am very proud that it is still in the family and providing pleasure.

Here is a larger pic if you're interested:

http://www.panix.com/~am_dew/022_19A.jpg""
 
Sounds to me like the thermost

Sounds to me like the thermostat is sticking closed. I'd toss in a new one.

Jeff
 
"Thanks Jeff. Yea, I should p

"Thanks Jeff. Yea, I should probably do that as well. I've never replaced the t-stat before and in looking at the exploded view below, in addition to replacing the t-stat (1) and t-stat gasket (2), it looks like I should also plan on replacing two seals (5), a gasket (29), and two rings (34) since they may get damaged during disassembly.

http://www.imagessite.com/OEM_Images/volvo_images/3685_1F07.gif"

Anyone know for sure what seals and rings I will need to replace?

Thanks."
 
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