Evinrude 175 hp 1995 60 Degree Looper Does not Stay on

"Hello,

I've been readi

"Hello,

I've been reading this forum and have found many answers to problems I have encountered with my engines. However, I have come to a problem which I am unable to resolve.

I went out to go for a quick spin the other day to make sure everything was running fine before going fishing the next day. I started both engines up to warm up for a few minutes, and both engines started up with no problems. I untie and start going down the canal for about 10-15 minutes and suddenly the starboard engine dies. So I prime the bulb to make sure there is gas in the engine. I try starting and it seems to fire and then dies. So I tried that a few more times, followed by disengaging the shifter and accelerating the throttle. I try starting and again it fires goes up to about 3000 rpm real quick and dies just as fast. I checked the spark plugs and they appear to be like they usually are.

I took the fuel pump assembly off to make sure the vapor chamber and filter were clean. Put it back together and made sure gas flowed from the output of the fuel assembly and into the carburator lines. Plenty of gas flow. So I don't think the fuel pump has anything to do with it right now. I could understand the fuel pump were failing if the engine would idle for a little while and then died, but this is not the case.

What would be the next thing on the list to check or otherwise do to fix this problem. I do have the 600 page manual of which I have read most of it already, but it does not seem to have a trouble shooting section which describes my problem.


Thanks,

Andrew"

"It's possible that the ig

"It's possible that the ignition switch has a intermitent short, acting as an automatic and unwanted kill switch.

To check for this type condition, remove the black/yellow wire (kill circuit) from the back of the ignition switch. If this cures the problem, replace the switch.

Note.... with that black/yellow wire disconnected, it will be impossible to kill the engine via the normal turn off of the key.

If the above cures nothing, check the stator under the flywheel (beginning of the charging and ignition system). If the large black coils are dripping a sticky substance down on the timer base and powerhead area, replace the stator. Those black coils provide approximately 300 AC volts to the powerpack capacitor to energize the pack.

When those black coils start to melt down, the ignition becomes weak and intermitent, eventually resulting in no ignition. In most cases, when they first start to fail, the ignition/spark will be fine when cold, but as the engine warms up, the problem surfaces.

Check the spark with the spark plugs removed. It should a 7/16" gap with a strong blue lightning like flame.... a real SNAP! Let us know what you find."

"Hi,

I forgot to mention th

"Hi,

I forgot to mention that I disconnected that part of the wiring harness on the engine.

I will check to see if there is any dripping sticky substance, but I have not seen any thus far.

As soon as the rain stops, I will check the spark on all the spark plugs, and report back. If the spark is weak or non existent, does that mean the stator is bad or might it have something to do with the power pack?"

"I just tried checking for the

"I just tried checking for the sticky substance, but didn't have much luck since the flywheel is encased in a plastic cover along with the optical ignition system components.

Is there a way to test the stator or otherwise access it without taking the timing wheel and such off on this 60 degree looper with OIS?"

You may do a resistance measur

You may do a resistance measurement. To get the right values and other relevant info there is smart to get a good workshop manual!

"I have a clymers manual for m

"I have a clymers manual for my engine and actually found the resistence test in differenct section of the book.

Just to double check, it says that the readings should be between 430-530 ohms. Is this correct?


I'm kind of nervous about taking the flywheel off to visually inspect the stator because of having to take off the timing encoder wheel. From what I have understood, in order to time the engine, a piston stop tool is used to back the cylinder all the way in. A mark is made on the timing wheel. Then the flywheel is rotated the opposite way until it stops, and another mark is made on the wheel. The mid point between the two marks is TDC."

"You may take it all apart wit

"You may take it all apart without haveing to worry too much about readjust the ignition. Your main 'worry' is two:
1: Getting the timing wheel off without destroying it, it someimes get rather stuck.
2:The magnetism in the flywheel is rather strong and the edges on the aluminum housing rather sharp. Do not cut off Your fingers!
(Tecnically no puller needed)"

"I performed the stator resist

"I performed the stator resistance test on both my engines, one works, one doesn't, and I recieved the same readings on both engines, when probing the brown & brown/yellow and brown/black & brown/white.

However, I am confused about the manual taking about jumping the brown and brown/yellow cables? Can you provide a little insight on this?"

"Trying to pull the timing whe

"Trying to pull the timing wheel off, but I need a piston stop tool. I called various dealers in my area and none of them sell tools. Can someone give me some suggestions as to where to get one or how to make one?

Or otherwise, a method to take the timing wheel off without the tool."

"No tool needed to take the ti

"No tool needed to take the timing wheel off. Unscrew the screw and lift. Sorry, but no tool available! Why the piston stop tool? If You want one, go to the hardware store and buy a screw with same thread as the spark plug."

"Well I tried using a socket w

"Well I tried using a socket wrench to take the wheel offer, but the it and the flywheel turn as I try to loosen the nut. Any suggestions to take it off?"

I also did try to find a 14mm

I also did try to find a 14mm by 1.25 thread bolt at various hardware stores includes a company that deals solely with bolts and they did not have one.

"Whatever You do, do not use a

"Whatever You do, do not use a piston stopper for that kind of operation!!!!Put the engine in gear and a piece of wood between the prop and ventilaton plate or a wide screw driver between the flywheel gear and outer housing to lock it from rotating."

DUH!!! I should have thought

DUH!!! I should have thought of that hours ago. Thanks.

"I finally got the stator take

"I finally got the stator taken out, and I did notice this black stuff that looked like melted plastic but was kind of stretchy like rubber.

Does this positively mean that the stator is bad?"

"I finally recieved the stator

"I finally recieved the stator this morning and just finished putting everything back together. Anxious as I was, I held back and made sure all electrical connections were right, as well as all the throttle linkages. Finally ready to try it out, turn the key, and to my disappoint the same thing happened.

The motor cranks, then it seems to fire, but almost as fast as it starts it dies. Any further suggestions, or tests that I can do to try and solve the problem at hand?

Thanks"