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1990 OMC Ford 4cylinder

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dick_ford

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I have just purchased a 1990 R

I have just purchased a 1990 Renken Seamaster 2008 WA. It has an OMC Drive with a Ford 4 cylinder motor. Only 450 hrs but it has been sitting for awhile. The motors look very clean and the boat only had one previous owner who said the boat ran fine last time it was in the water. I am fine working on the motor but have no experience with the outdrive. Should I send it away or take the plunge and do it myself? If I had a good manual I feel pretty confident and I am pretty sure there is no gear damage. Thoughts - Recommendations?
 
"Richard, I would drain the oi

"Richard, I would drain the oil in the outdrive and go from there. If there is water then I would plan on a manual.I understand the factory manual are best.What 4 cly engine is it? Kevin"
 
"The motor is a Ford and I thi

"The motor is a Ford and I think it is a 1.3L. I pick up the boat tomorrow. I've ordered a Seloc manual. I want to do a pretty extensive service, replace all the seals and replace all the rubber parts water impeller etc. Hopefully the manual will be clear on what to do. It will cost me about $1,200 to send both the upper and lower drives away for a basic rebuild but would like to do it myself unless people like yourself tell me it's a nightmare of a job. I have all winter and enjoy a challenge :)"
 
"You most likely have a 2.3 Fo

"You most likely have a 2.3 Ford (not 1.3) and in my opinion you would do much better with an OMC factory manual than the aftermarket ones. If select engine manuals at the top of this page you can actually get brand new ones (I think they are reprints) although pricey much better. You can also find them quite often on eBay such as this one. When you get the boat check the last 3 digits of the engine model # to see if they are (PWC or PWS, this indicates 1990)

http://cgi.ebay.ca/1990-OMC-ENGINE-STERN-DRIVE-FACTORY-SERVICE-MANUAL_W0QQitemZ2 00275876642QQihZ010QQcategoryZ26453QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem"
 
Thanks Bob I just ordered the

Thanks Bob I just ordered the factory manual. I plan to take the drive off the boat but is that necessary to do the basic overhall?
 
Yes Richard...definitely part

Yes Richard...definitely part of your overhaul and ongoing maintenance should be checking/greassing the 2 u-joints on the drive shaft. The drive has to be removed for this. Always purchase a new gasket from a local marine shop to put the drive back on with. While you have the drive off is a good time to inspect the gimbal bearing as well as the drive bellows for any wear and tear. The factory manual has a very good section on general maint plus very detailed sections on the upper and lower units.
 
Hi Bob

Andrew is going to g

Hi Bob

Andrew is going to get you for this. I'll bet he sells them.

Frank
 
"Now Frank...I know that Andre

"Now Frank...I know that Andrew is watching me
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and that's why I directed Richard to click on the engine manual icon at the top of the page, I merely pointed out that you can also find them sometimes on eBay (incase Andrew is out of stock)
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"
 
Did not want to cause any trou

Did not want to cause any trouble but now I have two manuals and don't think I need a third!
Got the boat home on Saturday and motor is a 2.3L Ford. Slips in and out of gear very smoothly and everything looks intact and clean. The position of the oil dipstick was obviously not thought about when they dropped this motor in this boat - you have to bend it at almost 90degrees just to get it out. Thanks again for your help and I will let you know how I get on.
 
"It's ok Richard I just li

"It's ok Richard I just like giving Bob a hard time.
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"
 
My optimism is shrinking! Got

My optimism is shrinking! Got the boat home and found out that the motor was never winterized. Took the thermostat out and black water was present. Only able to remove one drain plug from the stern drive the others will have to be drilled out. Have not removed the motor head yet but put a wrench on the motor to try and turn it and it won't budge. Based on this I am thinking the head may be cracked but what damage ocurs in the stern drive if it was not winterized and is there a way to check condition before I start ripping it apart? Have thoughts about cutting my losses and putting boat up for sale but haven't given up yet. Any advise?
 
Was this boat used this past s

Was this boat used this past summer? The drain plug you did take out was the oil good or milkie?
Was the drive lifted up or was it down? Can you get the boat inside where it is warm. If so then you can warm it up then you can do a presure test on the drive to see if it's cracked.They say you should alway store the boat with the drive down so it will drain the water out.
Lets start with this.
 
"Storing it in the down positi

"Storing it in the down position is also the best for the drive shaft bellows as it's compressed then instead of extended. The Cobra has 3 screws for the oil, the dipstick right on top, the fill screw about midway down on the stbd side and the drain right at the bottom on the stbd side. There are also 3 water jacket drain screws, 2 on the stbd side and one on the port. The manual will point all these out. Also if you see a larger screw around the middle DO NOT REMOVE because the metal nut plate will fall off inside, although you will probably be taking the drive off anyway you don't want to remove that screw. It's normally covered with a Cobra medallion badge but they fall off."
 
A problem That I just went thr

A problem That I just went through on that same 2.3 liter engine was that the exhaust manifold froze and cracked after several days of searching and numerous phone calls I found out that the 2.3 was only produced from 1987 to 1990 and the manifolds are very hard to come by. the only one I found was a stainless aftermarket manilfold that sells for $2000. No that is not a typeo $2000 dollars. Check yours very carefully for cracks and pressure test it. Thought I would offer you this advice before you started spending money on rebuilding the engine and going into the drive.
 
"Thank you for that advice. I

"Thank you for that advice. I have been doing a lot of research and am still in the planning stage before I start pulling everything apart. I was trying to figure out worst case if I had to replace the engine and the outdrive. Looks like I can buy a remanufactured engine for $1,300 and a rebuilt outdrive for $2,500 if I add another $1,000 for miscellaneous parts I may not be able to salvage then I am looking at $4,300. The boat cost me $2,500 and for $7,000 I still think I would have the perfect boat for my use. Add $2,000 for a manifold and the money pit just keeps growing!! The boat only has 450 hours on it so I am still hopeful that I can get it running for less than that. Any directions on how to pressure test the manifold would be appreciated."
 
I made a plate to cover where

I made a plate to cover where the riser and thermostst housing bolt onto the manifold and sealed them with some silicone. I removed the drain and threaded a air valve into it. I started by filling the exhaust ports full of water and then put about 20 pounds of air pressure in the water passages to see if there was a crack into the exhaust side. Then I semerged the manifold in a tub of water and pressurized the manifold again to check for external leaks.
 
Thanks Michael - Just for fun

Thanks Michael - Just for fun I looked on-line for a replacement exhaust manifold in case I end up needing one and you were not kidding nothing out there. I also read that someone with the same problem had replaced the manifold with one from a truck and run the exhaust just out through the back of the boat! I don't think I want to do that. Maybe replace the motor completely with another 4 cylinder?
 
"Frank - Haven't drained a

"Frank - Haven't drained any oil out of the motors yet still developing a plan of attack! Did hook up a battery and the trim/tilt actually worked plus I have lights! Just clicked the starter but nothing moved. Once it gets a bit warmer I will drain all the oil - take off the exhaust manifold and test, remove the plugs, soak the cylinders with WD40, and do a pressure test on the outdrive. That's my plan so far."
 
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