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A step by step easy to follow Winterizing

jcampbe6

New member
"It's time to pull in the

"It's time to pull in the docks, rafts, lifts, and boats for another season. But there is more to it than just taking boats out of the water. Winterizing a boat and motor is the most important maintenance a boat owner can perform to help ensure safe boating next spring.

Whether you choose to do it yourself or have your marina or storage facility do it for you, winterizing is the best way to prepare your boat for the season to come. Regardless of where your boat is stored (inside or outside), much care is needed to protect your boat engine.

The following are some basic steps to winterize your marine engine and equipment.

Fill the fuel tanks and add the appropriate amount of stabilizer. Run the engine long enough to get treated gas into the fuel line and engine. Left untreated over the winter, gasoline deteriorates into varnish and gum, making starting difficult.
Flush the cooling system. (Flushing kits are available from boat dealers.) Also remove block plugs and drain all the water from inboard and inboard outdrive engines. This cleans out accumulated sediment and rust flakes. Pump in anti-freeze to avoid trapped ice pockets. Use an environmentally safe product to avoid contaminating the marine environment.
Fog the engine with oil to prevent rust. Available in bulk or aerosol cans, fogging oil is formulated to stick to the cylinders and not slide down the walls. Follow the instructions that come with the product making sure to spray some of the oil into the cylinders through the sparkplug holes once the engine has cooled down. Check the spark plugs and replace them as necessary.
Replace the oil and oil filter on inboard and inboard outdrive engines. Be sure to dispose of the used oil at an authorized recycling center.
Change the lower unit gearcase lubricant on outboards and inboard/outdrive engines. Even a little water trapped in the gearcase can cause damage, especially if allowed to freeze.
Check the props for nicks. Even slight damage can hinder performance. Worse yet, blade damage can cause vibration, damaging other engine parts and the drive system. Some damaged props can be repaired by marine dealers for a fraction of the cost of a new one.
Store outboards in an upright position. Consider having the water pump impeller replaced every two or three years. The rubber legs can get stiff, reducing water circulation, or they may break off, eliminating coolant flow completely.
Spray a moisture displacing lubricant such as a silicone product onto electrical terminals and the fuse panel. Read the label to make sure the spray is safe for use on electrical components.
Inspect steering systems, including tiller steering friction fittings on outboards. Tighten them if they're loose.
Clean the backfire flame arrester on inboard engines with carburetor cleaner.
Clean boats inside and out and cover when stored, even indoors. Allow for air circulation under the cover to prevent mildew.
Drain water from the bilges and leave the transom drain plug out. It's a good idea to place a reminder note in a conspicuous place to avoid embarrassment at the boat ramp next spring.
Hang life jackets up where they can air out.
Examine trailer tires and grease the wheel bearings, replacing them as necessary. Check bulbs and electrical contacts on the plugs as well as sockets where the bulbs screw in. Spray contacts with a moisture displacing lubricant and wrap electrical tape around the plugs to keep them dry.
Put the trailer on blocks and remove the tires to prolong rubber life and hinder boat thieves.
Check the owners manual for tips that are particular to your own brand of boat, engine and trailer.
For boaters who aren't comfortable doing their own maintenance, all the procedures may be performed by a qualified marine technician at your local boat dealer. Taking a little time in the fall to get your boat and motor ready for winter means that you can be one of the first boaters out on the water next spring.

And i know some people on this forum say "air doesnt freeze" but the water does if you are not experienced enough to get it all out!!!!!"
 
"I'm in an area where we s

"I'm in an area where we sometimes get some winter gales, and no matter how the boat is covered some water always manages to get into the boat... my solution: pour some antifreeze into the bilge, just enough so it starts to come out the drain hole. Just make sure you use a NON TOXIC antifreeze if you do this as any water that gets into the boat over the winter will displace a water/antifreeze mizture onto the ground where it could poison an animal. I don't know about your boat, but none of the boats I've owned drain perfectly dry when the drain plug is pulled."
 
"Rob,

I have never had a pr


"Rob,

I have never had a problem with my boat draining.. All I do is Crank the trailer jack all the way up and put it on a cinder block to ensure a steep angle and propper drainage.. Also if i'm feeling froggy i will pay the 200 bucks and get it professionally shrinkwrapped and the company i deal with has a guarantee that the inside off the boat wont get a drop of water inside....

Cheers, Jesse."
 
"I have been shrinkwrapping my

"I have been shrinkwrapping my boat for 13 years and never had one drop of water get inside the boat no matter what season it is..........

As far as your pre winter service I have never done much this unless a customer has specifically asked.

I will tell you one thing from many years of experience, Servicing the outdrive in the fall is not a wise thing to do.
If there is water in the gear oil then yes something has to be done but if there is not then this is my reason,

When I worked in the business we serviced (hundreds and hundreds) of boats each year and we never changed any oils (engine or outdrive) in the fall.

When the spring came around and we drained the outdrives and removed them to service the Ujoint assemblies, 1 out of 20 had a bad upper carrier seal. This showed up because the seal got cold and shrank and the outdrive being in the UP fully trimmed position allowed the gear oil to drain into the bellows.

In the fall, Unless the seal is leaking and you remove the outdrive to service the ujoints you most likely will not notice the lack of gear oil when you drain it.

Just my opinion and it is the way I deal with my own boat.

I would rather be 100% confident that all is perfect in the spring than ASSuming it made it thru the winter without issue."
 
Did the upper bad carrier seal

Did the upper bad carrier seal have anything to do with how the OD was stored over the winter? And do you really remove your OD every spring to inspect? I was under the understanding that it should be checked every 4 years or so. Seems a little overkill. But then what do I know .. lol
 
"No the upper carrier does not

"No the upper carrier does not care how the outdrive is stroed!
A seal is a seal and if it leaks it leaks.

In my opinion every alpha, especially gen l's they need to be removed and the ujoints need to be serviced evey 50 - 100 hours. The drive shaft needs to be greased even on the gen ll's. the Gimbal bearing needs to be felt with hands and it is the only way to tell if the carrier seal leaked into the bellows. The only other way to tell is to pressure check the outdrive.

I used to do at least 500+ outdrive services every spring EVERY year.

We had a 95 % fixed the first time record at our marina and one of the reasons was the overkill."
 
I always change the oils in th

I always change the oils in the fall just so I know there is no water in it. Better to be safe than sorry. Besides if one finds water in his outdrive or engine oil than now you have a winter project to keep you from getting bored.
 
"I just pulled the bottom plug

"I just pulled the bottom plug on the leg to check for water and replaced, then check the engine oil and it was fine as well no water and I change all the fluids in the spring. I agree with Kghost "then you know exactly what you got""
 
I saw a show called "truck

I saw a show called "trucks" the other day. An engine builder stated that engine oil should be changed prior to mothballing because the acids in suspension could etch bearing surfaces.
 
I have heard that also many ma

I have heard that also many many times.

If you are mothballing for a very long period of time say more than a year I agree.

I personally have never seen any evidence of this issue in a motor that has been stored for under 2 years. Never have seen one stored any longer than that either.
 
"Piston driven Aircraft engine

"Piston driven Aircraft engines that are properly cared for, are flown often as a PM measure. One reason is to protect the Camshaft Lobes from moisture pitting and residual Acid damage. Renewing with clean undiluted oil can only help minimize contaminates. I change my engine oil prior to the final run of the season so that the internals get washed over with new oil. Al W."
 
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