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woodmo
11-15-2008, 10:48 PM
I have replaced the impeller (4 hole cover) and now the pee hole is peeing a lot of water. Should there have been an O ring or is the shaft worn too much?

cedmunds
11-15-2008, 11:19 PM
"William,

If I understand your description correctly you replaced the internal impeller in the raw water pump but when you run the engine there is water leaking from the weep hole at the bottom of the raw water pump. If you have the same raw water pump that I have, there are also 2 seals inside that water pump back to back and one or both of the seals are bad. If this is the case you need to remove the pump and replace the seals. These are rubber donut shaped seals and easily replaced once you have the new ones but be sure to place them in the same back to back position and at the same depth as those you remove or they will not function properly. The seals should have a part number on them and, at least in my case I was able to acquire them from the seal manufacturer rather than volvo."

woodmo
11-15-2008, 11:41 PM
My pump is the one with a 4 hole cover and is a bit different than the one with a six hole cover. I suspect you are right about the two inner seals though. I was hoping for an O ring to be missing as the bolts holding the pump to the engine are very rusted and will probably be my next problem in the repair.}

vics
11-16-2008, 09:46 AM
"All the pumps I can find in the parts lists and the workshop manual have a 6 bolt cover and one fitted to some MD17 engines has two ballraces so cannot comment on the pump fitted to your engine.

However the problem with a severe water leak is that water can be forced past the inner seal, the oil seal, into the engine crankcase. If your pump has ball bearings those are at risk as well.

So while you might be able to ignore a slight weep you cannot I am afraid ignore a severe water leak.

Inspect the bearing(s) and the condition of the shaft at the same time. A complete overhaul might be called for."

cedmunds
11-16-2008, 10:04 AM
"William,

I have to give a strong 2nd to Vic S. email to you on this. Attached is the diagram for the what I always call the simple version of the pump, I believe the one without the ballraces.

I have to give a strong 2nd on Vic S. email to you on your situation.

A little off the subject, Vic S. Do you happen to have a diagram for the ballrace version of the pump that you would be willing to upload? I own both versions of the pump and would like to have an exploded view of the ballrace version of the pump. In lieu of that I would appreciate having the manufacturers PN identification of the ballraces so I can hunt down some spares without taking apart the pump I have. <center><table border=1><tr><td>[img]http://www.marineengine.com/discus/icons/mime_pdf.gif""" align=left alt=""application/pdf"">Simple MD-11C pump
WATER%20PUMP%20%20833522.pdf ("") (38.5 k)</td></tr></table></center>"

woodmo
11-16-2008, 05:44 PM
The impeller and shaft on my pump are easily removed by pulling straight out without a screw keeping the shaft secured. The only screw is the one mounting the impeller to the shaft. Any ideas? My engine is an MD-11D. I agree with both you that this cannot be ignored.

cedmunds
11-16-2008, 07:17 PM
"William,

I am not sure why you are concerned with getting the impeller and shaft out of the pump at this point if the pump is still on the engine. According to my best recollection, you can&#39;t get at the seals that need attention without removing the pump from the engine. When the pump is removed from the engine you can push out the shaft and impeller from the back side then the seals can be removed and replaced &#40;again from the back side&#41;. I know you said the bolts holding the pump on to the engine are rusted but sooner or later you are going to need to address it and now is better then when you are in a pickle. Just be patient and you will get it. Soak the bolts with a good agent like liquid wrench, WD-40 and let it sit for a day. Try tapping on the head of the bolt or heat the bolt heads and then spray with an agent. If you go the &#34;gorilla&#34; route you are likely to get an undesired result e.g. bolt head broken off.

At any rate below is what the manual says for removing the impeller &amp; shaft from the front side, uploaded pic for you as well.

Remove the cover. Watch out for water pouring
through the pump. With the aid to two
screwdrivers prise the shaft with the impeller out of the housing sufficiently for the screw which holds the impeller to be undone. NOTE! Lay
some kind of protection under the screwdrivers
so that the housing is not damaged.
59. Take the screw out and pull the impeller off the shaft. Clean the housing internally and check
that the carrier &#40;MD17&#41; is free from defects and
fit the new impeller. Fit the cover together with a new gasket.

Maybe Vic S. will confirm.

Best of Luck with it.

http://www.marineengine.com/discus/messages/12494/221392.jpgpic of impeller removal

woodmo
11-16-2008, 10:20 PM
"I used the workshop manual &#40; http://www.bluemoment.com/manuals/VolvoMD11C_D_17C_D.pdf ("") &#41;which was already on the boat in a 3 ring binder. It has all the pics you have sent plus some. My quandary is that at page 21 item 60. it states that the shaft is held in place by a screw, yet when I changed the impeller the shaft came out during the simple prying of the impeller and has no screw holding it in as is shown in the diagram and associated text. Is there yet another type of pump that is not shown in either diagram following item 59. or 60. ? Thank you for your patience as this is my first on a diesel and am new to raw water."