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Fuel pump and steering gear

egressman

New member
"Picked up a 1980 Rinker Model

"Picked up a 1980 Rinker Model 17 with 1979 OMC 120 HP. New to stern drives!

Three issues I have and any direction would be great.
1 Engine cranks and runs with steady squirts of stating fluid, see fuel bouncing in clear tube (fuel pump?) (Rebuild)

2. Steering gear has fluid dripping from around it?

3. High tilt motor inop, 12 v straight to it, major sparks. Switch is good. New battery. (rebuid)"
 
"2. Reseal upper gear box
3.


"2. Reseal upper gear box
3. remove electric motor, try turning shaft with screwdriver, bench test motor
4. get OMC manual off eBay, or buy Seloc from this site if cannot find an OMC one"
 
"OMC Manual should be number o

"OMC Manual should be number one
thumbs_up.gif
"
 
"I know of no rebuild kit for

"I know of no rebuild kit for a fuel pump. Replace fuel pump, ebay has them. New gasket also when you replace please.

Maybe the fuel pump leaked into your oil, smell the oil,it won't look milky from fuel.

Ok heres a link to help tou with the tilt.

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=259807

Now to the leaking gear , need to rebuild the intermediate, need a rebuild kit. Ebasic power has all kits.

And you need a water impeller kit.

And a tilt clutch housing kit.

Heres a link how i remove the whole drive or just the lower.
http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=275061&highlight=how+to+remove+ball+ge ar+shaft"
 
Thanks Hy Stat I don't kno

Thanks Hy Stat I don't know much about boats yet but that had me scraching my head.
 
links to iboats are depressing

links to iboats are depressing.... they lump OMC in with the Merc forum over there...as soon as anyone says "stringer" they say "push the boat in a landfill... get a Merc..."... always ganging up on a drive that is far superior in many ways to the Merc.
 
"I know after I got my boat I

"I know after I got my boat I had read some of from that iboats and thought what have I go in to.
uhoh.gif

But all is ok so far.

Frank"
 
"Did the op say post has oil l

"Did the op say post has oil leaking around the steering gear?

Well you have to pull the gear, pull the steering shaft, and replace the seals, hence rebuild the intermediate.

Does anyone know how to do that without pulling the drive.

If yes please post here i would like to learn that magic trick.

I'm scratching my head also."
 
"Didn't suggest rebuilding

"Didn't suggest rebuilding the upper, just resealing it. The steering gear goes into the upper gearbox of a stringer drive with tru-course steering. He indicated there was oil leaking out, so that would be upper gearcase oil. It is a very common leak point on stringer drives, when you tilt the drive up, oil starts dripping off the steering gear- and it is an often overlooked seal when there is milky oil in the upper.

The intermediate steering shaft seal may very well keep water out of the bilge, but there is no oil on that side of the steering gears."
 
"I would say basic to intermed

"I would say basic to intermediate skill. But advanced levels of patience and finesse for removing some of the stainless fasteners that are holding the aluminum components together. Look for an OMC manual on eBay or buy a Seloc manual at this site, (marineengine.com) and have a look. No special tools to simply reseal. A set of seal drivers would be sweet, but most people do it without.

Your drive is probably due for a water pump impeller anyways, and the disassembly required to change that impeller means you'll have the upper gearcase out and half apart already."
 
"Well,

Ordered fuel pump,


"Well,

Ordered fuel pump, pulled the trim motor and turned the shaft. Motor runs fine, sounds like an aircraft when it is spinning-up.

Reinstalled it, and the motor went down 3 inches, then wouldn't move. pulled motor again, found a little tab in the hole. Put the tab in the slot, installed the motor. Now I get a "ker-plunk" sound in both directions with know movement???

Egressman"
 
"grease your tilt pins. If no

"grease your tilt pins. If no improvement, remove clutch cover to look for water, sludge, and rust."
 
"Ok,

Took the Rack off that


"Ok,

Took the Rack off that engages the tilt motor gear so I could lower the lower end and remove the weight from the gear. Still get the same thing, motor runs but won't turn the gear.

Also, what is the secret to getting the spring back on the clutch where the tilt motor connects (Brass collar with tabs)?

BTW, Changed the fuel pump, runs fine now!"
 
"well, a dying electric motor

"well, a dying electric motor will often spin on the bench just fine, but under load will show it's true colours.
Before condemning the motor, you would want to remove all the high current side terminals from the tilt relays and file both sides of the ring terminals shiny, and also file the washer both sides and the side of the nut that contacts the terminals. Also remove the two 50 amp barrel fuses back behind and to the starboard side of your motor and sand the metal ends of the fuses clean if they are rusty.
If you can remove the motor and turn the drive up and down by inserting a screwdriver in the hammerblow coupling, (that's actually what I meant way back in post 3 of this thread) and winding it by hand, then the clutch and worm are obviously fine and the electric motor is the weak component, or the wiring and relays to the motor are not delivering full current.( I know - not possible to access it on all boats....some are very hard to get at)

Another way to test the motor in place and it's wiring is with a clamp on ammeter. The motor should draw a good 25 to 35 amps when trying to lift the drive. If it isn't pulling that kind of current, then the motor or relays/wiring is the issue.
If it pulls 30 amps and the drive does not move, then there is probably a mechanical issue in the shaft/clutch/etc"
 
"Great info, What did we do

"Great info, What did we do before the internet?
I will try to check the electrical side.
Last night I pulled the cover off the clutch and pulled it apart. There must have been some water in there, noticed some rush color to the oil. I popped the snap ring and separated all the plates. The metal ones had some corrosion on them so I used a wire brush and cleaned it all up. Battery is 100%

The worm gear, with the shaft out will spin from inside the boat. When I put the motor back in, it wouldn’t move. (Weight is still off the gear)
Hold do I get the worm gear out (need new manual) I pulled the triangle cover off the back but I still couldn’t get it out. Large color of the clutch stayed in also?

Gut tells me to order a new motor."
 
"after the triangle cover is o

"after the triangle cover is off, there's just an o ring holding that round puck in there. A good hit to the big brass gear up and back will pop it out...
Watch for flying parts - the little nylon washers are important.
I've never seen one of those clutches work correctly after being disassembled, but you might be the exception. I thought you need a press to assemble it. Maybe not if it's all worn out."
 
Two pair of channel lock plier

Two pair of channel lock pliers did the job. Not sure how worn it is since I have never seen a new one.
Where is the brass gear? What manual would you suggest for my motor?
Egress Man
 
"that's what we call "

"that's what we call "throwing parts at it". Sometimes ya get lucky but usually not.
Thus all the "before condemning the motor" advice above....

but, you will need a new motor eventually - now you have a spare."
 
"Are you ready for the fix?

"Are you ready for the fix?



It was the missing gasket on the clutch cover, the clutch was pinched. When I pulled the cover off, it was covered with RTV and I thought the extra washers were on the outside of the cover. It appears they used them as spacers instead of the proper gasket!!!"
 
"that's actually not a gas

"that's actually not a gasket, the parts book calls them "shims"
usually takes 2 shims to get the brass gear the clearance it needs.
The O-ring does the sealing.
glad it's fixed."
 
"Would be why you get 5 in a p

"Would be why you get 5 in a pack! They used star washers as spacers? I guess it worked, but I think it leaked. Would explain the corrosion inside and all the RTV."
 
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