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1985 43 OMC Stringer Electronic Ignition Issue

gmcelroy

New member
"I purchased a Petronix electr

"I purchased a Petronix electronic ignition and a CDI ESA module (susposed to work with points or Petronix) and my boat still grids when shifting from forward to reverse. I even added the diode fix from the Petronix website and it still grinds. Do I need to install a ballist resister as a next step?. FYI, the coil looks like it's OEM.

PS - The boat runs great though"
 
"If it's the newer style f

"If it's the newer style from CDI/Rapair then it should work. Did you disconnect the the resistor wire as most of the electronic ignitions need the full 12v to work. The instructions should have covered that off.

You can also do the static test to see if the ESA is working at all. With the engine running in neutral, lift up the arm on the interrupter switch and listen to the engine, do the rpm's drop and the engine runs rough?"
 
"Bob....I will have to call CD

"Bob....I will have to call CDI since I do not know which wire is the resister wire....FYI, I do no believe that I have a ballest resister but I could be wrong....Also, the RPMS do drop when I put the boat out of neutral.....Thanks much...George"
 
"The resistor wire is part of

"The resistor wire is part of the OMC engine wiring harness, it's instead of a ballast resistor. I can't swear on the 1985 but 1986 and up it's a 20 gauge purple/red wire attached to the positive side of the coil. You may find that the electronic ignition needs you to run a 12v wire from somewhere else."
 
"with Pertronix, and a stock c

"with Pertronix, and a stock coil, you run 12V to the module, and leave the resistor in place to the coil. Feeding a stock coil 12V will burn it out within 30 minutes or so. The Pertronix module needs 12V. The diodes are not req'd with CDI ESA, get that non-coast guard approved fire hazard of diodes and plastic out of there.
Pertronix is idiotic for recommending such a thing."
 
"Bear with me folks, I am bran

"Bear with me folks, I am brand new to boating....

When I am shifting the boat out of neutral, the RPMS do drop to about 500 RPM. Then as I shift
VERY VERY SLOWLY, I hear the grinding/ticking then
it clunks into gear (either forward or reverse)
I have read that I should be shifting VERY SWIFTLY instead...Is this true??? Perhaps I'm creating my own problems by shifting slow and easy...."
 
Yes...shifting needs to be swi

Yes...shifting needs to be swift and decisive. Shifting slow will cause the clutch dog to skip along until it grabs hold which is what you are hearing. On most drives the ESA does not even activate going into gear but on coming out of gear into neutral which is when you need it the most.
 
"Bob...I have the boat out of

"Bob...I have the boat out of the water hooked up to a hose...So when I shift using your technique I should at least hear and feel a solid 'clunk' right?? And the shifter should move without difficulties...Also, the shifter should move easily getting out of gear as well....Based on your comments above, if the ESA WAS NOT WORKING I would have a heck of a time taking the boat out of gear as opposed to getting into gear right??
Thanks much Bob.......George"
 
"on a hose, shifting doesn&#39

"on a hose, shifting doesn't generally activate the ESA. The resistance of the lake on the propeller is required before the ESA functions."
 
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