Power issue think its with the timing

alright its a 1986 3.0 140 hp

alright its a 1986 3.0 140 hp omc motor

background... when i got the boat the previous owner put an electronic ignition in it .

my boat maxs out at 3400 rpms now over the summer i got it up to 4500 but i had to advacne the timing a lot got kinda nervous it would hurt the motor so i turned it back to 4 btdc . anyways when i got it ther were to wires coming out of the distributor from the electronic ignition one was red other was black obviously the red went to the positive of the coil but the black was never connected. so after rebuilding the motor i decided to connect it to the negative on the coil.. and with factory timing and brand new everything on the motor im kinda wondering if maybe its suppose to be a ground instead of being connected ..

anyone got any ideas about the mystery wire or anything else to try to get that exra power. o yea prop is right pitch. outdrive is a 3.0 all the obiwous thinks are right motor runs great its got like 140 compression..

help me out

esa maybe?

esa maybe?

"Supposed to be 1 btdc. Hows i

"Supposed to be 1 btdc. Hows it run there.

Hows the dizzy tight?

What kind of plugs you running?

Gap right .035?

Your only off 100 rpm, what size prop you got?"

"Depends what kind of ignition

"Depends what kind of ignition it is but on a Pertronix they put the red wire on the + coil and the black on the - coil. Not sure how yours would have worked before with the black off unless the casing of the module is grounded?

Anyway you also need to check the input voltage to the module, may of them will not work properly unless they get 12v, OMC's typically have a resistor wire as a ballast resistor, you may have to find a full 12v source, you can test this by taking the red wire off the + coil and run a jumper from it right to the + of the battery.

One other thing is that for some of these work properly on an OMC there is a diode fix you must build and install, the Pertronix website has the diagram and parts list (Radio Shack). There are new ESA modules builr by CDI/Rapair that are electronic ignition compatible that don't need the diode fix."

bob are you saying take the re

bob are you saying take the red wire from the distributor and jump to the positive???

also once i try this what should i be looking for as signs that indicate its the resister wire.

im not sure what the ignition system is ... i know its aftermarket. i tried looking for it once and found it in an auto parts place but forgot the name... does auto vs marine igntion compatibable ... that could be the problem??

ebay item 230157501301
Brand

ebay item 230157501301
Brand new distributor for $75 and be done with it.

"Jerod...I'm not saying to

"Jerod...I'm not saying to do that, I'm just saying that some of the ignition systems require the full 12v to work properly and if your OMC is still wired as it was from the factory then the resistor wire will drop the 12v down. You'll need to determine the type of ignition that it is and see if you can find the wiring specs online for it. Other option would be to put points back in?

ps...timing for that engine depends on what kind of fuel you run it on. 89aki should be at 4deg BTDC"