View Full Version : Aluminum Fuel Tank Installation
10-14-2008, 08:12 PM
I purchased a used aluminum fuel tank for my 74 CC 25'Explorer. I am looking for knowledge on doing the installation. I have found two different ways so far. One was to glue 1/4" strips of plastic to the bottom of the tank every 12" making sure that the plastic has no space for water to accumulate under it to prevent corrosion of the tank. The other one is to encapsulate the tank in foam. I like the plastic strips. Any one have some experience in this who would like to add to the discussion. I have a plastic tank right now that is only 30 gal which is a little small for my bb chevy. I have plenty of time so I would like to do it right. I also have read that I sure use stainless fittenings inbetween the brass and tank. Thanks in advance.
10-15-2008, 07:03 AM
"Use the first method, with 3M 5200 as your "glue". The foam method might allow water vapor between the tank and the foam, and that would be a disaster.
Note: One of the smartest surveyors in America recommends the glue strip method.
10-15-2008, 12:53 PM
"30 gal??? and I thought that 40 gal was small for my orignal 283CID/185 HP engine!! (69 CC 23' Lancer) Fortunatly, new engine, a 260HP 5.7L FWC MERC seems to get better fuel economy. Later Lancers had 60 gal tanks. Was going to increase my tank size this season, but figured that I couldn't afford to fill it up. This year.. short trips only."
10-15-2008, 12:54 PM
BTW inspect the "new" tank CAREFULLY for corrosion before you install it.
10-20-2008, 08:39 PM
"I received my tank a couple of days ago. I found two small spots on the bottom of the tank where you can see the aluminum was corroding I cleaned the areas with a brass wire brush neither spot goes through the tank. My question, is there something out there that I can use to fill in the spots both smaller the the dia of a pencil and my guess is less then 1/32 deep. I would like to make sure that the corrsion doesn't continue to eat through. The tank has been pressurized and doesn't leak."
10-21-2008, 05:55 AM
"Try this: Mix up some clear liquid epoxy. Next, using a piece of coarse (40 grit) sandpaper, sand the epoxy into the aluminum until you see it turn a grey color. Let it harden thoroughly and you're all set.
10-21-2008, 08:17 AM
The glued strips work, as do installing starboard strips on the surface where the tank is to be mounted. Just be sure the screws are recessed so they don't contact the tank. Also make sure the area is clean of all debris, including old screws prior to setting the tank. Regarding inspection, I would be more concerned about the welds rather than corrosion on a new tank. Inspect all welds, especially at the corners. I would even consider filling the tank with water to test it. The manufacturers I work for all test the tanks prior to installation, even though they are tested by the manufacturer prior to shipping. It has payed off many times, especially with a 500 gallon tank that goes in before the deck goes on.
10-21-2008, 01:05 PM
Do I have to build a frame around the front and sides or just glued to a sheet on the bottom?
10-21-2008, 05:49 PM
"I wouldn't use a sheet. You want to keep the area ventilated, that's why you use strips, it lets air through and keeps the moisture level down. You don't have to make a frame either, unless you need the structure to secure the tank in place."
12-12-2008, 10:17 AM
"Here's how I did mine after E10 ethanol fuel destroyed my fiberglass tanks.
03-08-2009, 09:17 PM
The snow is melting so it will soon be time to start my project. I will need to constuct some type of frame to mount the tank to. I was planning on mounting it in the stern where the current plastic tank was. I am planning on mounting it to the 2 large stringers that the engine is also mounted to. They are already notched for a tank with a v type bottom but this tank is flat. The plastic tank was in a wooden box and the box was held in place with 2x4s. I will have to construct something to mount the aluminum tank to. The web site above talks about a piece plywood sealed in fiberglass then glue the plastic strips that are glued to the tank to the fiberglass sheet. Will I need to put a frame around it to make sure that if the tank ever became loose it would go bouncing around my bilge or is the 3m 5200 that relyable.
03-09-2009, 02:56 PM
"Hi Brian, I would make sure the top of the tank is supported either by straps or a frame after setting the tank bottom on a floor raised as discussed in the website. Leave a 1/4" clearance minimum around the tank sides and bottom. Use the strips and 5200 to get this spacing. This assures water will not trap and corrode the tank."
05-19-2009, 09:54 PM
If I put straps over the top of the tank to hold it down what kind of material should they be? Will I have to worry about the same corrosion issues with the straps as I would with moisture on the bottom. If moisture gets under the strap wouldn't it also corrode the tank top?
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