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1970 Johnson 50 Hydroelectric drive No neutralreverse

newkyboater

New member
"I just bought an older boat w

"I just bought an older boat with a 1970 Johnson 50 with Hydro-electric drive. The boat goes forward in forward, forward (idle speed) in neutral, and forward (with acceleration) in reverse. Where should I start?
Robert"
 
"Well, I am not a marine mecha

"Well, I am not a marine mechanic, but I bought a boat with a 1968 55 hp Johnson and had the same problem. I was able to fix the problem in two steps. 1) I checked the lower end wires and made sure that they were connected together correctly. 2) I replaced the electric shift switch in the control box after verifying the correct spark at the lower end wires. My previoius posting is labeled, "1968 55 HP Johnson stays in drive in water" if you want to check out all the advice that was provided to me. Here is the link (hope it works) to my thread. http://www.marineengine.com/discus/messages/12478/21321.shtml

Good luck,
Ken"
 
"(Hydro Electric Shift&#41

"(Hydro Electric Shift)
(J. Reeves)

The shifting setup of the lower unit is what's called a "Hydro Electric Shift", which is quite complex consisting of voltage being applied to solenoids in the lower unit which in turn change oil passages via a oil pump that supplies various pressure on a spring loaded shifter dog. The wires leading to the lower unit (at the powerhead) are "Green" and "Blue". The engine must be running or cranking over in order to shift out of forward gear.

You CAN NOT use HI VIS lube in that lower unit. You MUST USE what OMC calls "Preminum Blend" lube, commonly called "Type C". (A thinner lube)

In neutral, you need 12v to the "Green" wire.
In reverse, you need 12v to both wires, the "Green" one and the "Blue" one.
In forward, there should be no voltage to either wire. (The spring loaded shifter dog forces the unit into forward gear)

To check the lower unit for proper shifting to make sure you have no trouble there, remove the spark plugs to avoid problems and to allow a higher cranking speed.

This next step eliminates the actual shift switch in case problems may exist there.... Disconnect the blue & green wires at the knife connectors (the rubber insulated boots) leading to the lower unit at the powerhead, then using jumpers, take voltage direct from the starter solenoid to apply voltage to the "Green" wire for neutral, then both wires 'Green" & "Blue" for reverse (Remember the engine must be cranking over in order to shift).

With no voltage applied, the unit should be in forward. No need for a ground jumper... the lower unit's already grounded. You may crank the engine with the key switch or by energizing the starter solenoid with a jumper wire."
 
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