View Full Version : 327F cooling question
08-27-2008, 11:24 PM
"I have a 327F that is raw water cooled. When running it with a garden hose, I noticed that the starboard pipe does not put out as much water as the port side does. Port side is always putting out water but starboard side sort of puts it out in gulps. I also noticed that after running maybe 5 minutes or so, the outside of both exhaust manifolds is fairly hot. I can put my hand on them but it starts to get uncomfortable. Engine temp is fine and I am running a thermostat. The water coming out of the pipes is not hot but is warm. I checked the pressure relief valves through the housings and they were both operational and not stuck. I'm thinking that my manifolds might be plugged up with rust although when running water through the engine before starting the manifolds are cold (water temp cold). About how warm/hot should the outsides of the manifolds get? I'm getting ready to start pulling hoses to verify water flow but if they normally get hot then I won't.
08-29-2008, 08:27 AM
"You need to buy a non-contact infared temp gun (under 50 bucks) and see what's actually happening. If one side is truly hotter, you'll not only know, you'll know WHERE it's getting hotter so you where to correct it.
08-29-2008, 12:13 PM
"I recently dismantled a couple of the exhaust logs and risers, took a coat hanger wire and loosened all the internal scale. They are heavy, but it is a job that can be done fairly easily. It is sort of a balancing act to get the bolts lined back up when it comes time to re-install, but no big deal. I would recommend NOT attaching the risers until you get the exhaust logs installed, as that would be a pretty tough balancing act.
Yes, there was rust and scale in mine. Take a look. They cleaned up very nicely, by the way.
08-31-2008, 04:40 PM
"Thanks Jeff and Paul, I was thinking they were probably plugged up with rust and scale. The question still remains though, how warm should they get? I'm thinking with the volume of water going through them, they shouldn't get THAT warm. I know without an actual number, it's impossible to give an answer."
09-01-2008, 05:45 AM
No part of my RWC exhaust system exceeds 160 ' F.
Hope that helps.
09-01-2008, 11:41 AM
"Thanks Jeff. Maybe mine aren't running that hot after all, although the fact that one side puts out more water concerns me. I think I'll just pull the manifolds and check them out."
10-23-2008, 03:53 PM
Looking for a rebuilt 327F left hand (counter roating)engine for sale.
11-04-2011, 08:01 AM
I've a sherwood pump for the 327f engine this pump is extremly rear as it is no longer availible from sherwood, its is brand new in a box with reciept bought new in 1994 at a cost of £381.00 if anyone is intested in making me an offer for this pump get in touch!
11-04-2011, 09:05 AM
............. I'm thinking that my manifolds might be plugged up with rust although when running water through the engine before starting the manifolds are cold (water temp cold). About how warm/hot should the outsides of the manifolds get? I'm getting ready to start pulling hoses to verify water flow but if they normally get hot then I won't.
The manifold should not run so hot that you cannot keep your hand on them for a short duration.
Greg, the cost to pull these down and inspect them, is the cost of new gaskets and a bit of your time.
Transfer ports (end caps, manifold to elbow or riser) are often the culprit.
Your engine requires only that water at which the T stat allows to leave on the "As Needed" basis.
Because of this, most all sea water is by-passing the actual engine cooling demands, and is going onto and out the exhaust...... so there should be plenty of sea water to remove the heat.
I realize that you may have the twin impeller pump.
Your incoming sea water path, sea water pump, and hose interiors, etc, must all be restriction free, or you'll chase your tail on this one.
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