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Need bravo 1 expert assistance

kghost

Silver Medal Contributor
I am working on a Bravo 1 outd

I am working on a Bravo 1 outdrive and have a question for an experienced tech or someone with a great deal of experience.

Quick response would be greatly appriciated

Thanks

Jack
 
"Ayuh,....

If you Asked the


"Ayuh,....

If you Asked the Question,....

You just Might get some Answers....."
 
"I am replacing the upper gear

"I am replacing the upper gear set due to cone clutch failure. No issues with that.

Let me say That I have a lot of experience with alpha drives but due to my area there are not many bravo's and when i worked in the business I did not have any first hand experience with bravo's.

Anyway, While pulling the lower bearing race off the "chimmney" I did not have the special puller so I used a 2 jaw puller. My first attempt I screwed the puller screw down on the lower unit dirve shaft thru the "chimney".( outdrive was still assembled at this point) While turning the screw down to pull the jaws up the drive shaft went down.

My question, because I have never been into a bravo lower unit, is did I push the drive shaft down through the back to back tapered bearings that supportin in the lower? When I took the two halfs apart to investigate there is no retaining nut to keep the drive shaft in place like an Alpha. If so I will have to dissassemble the lower to reseat the bearings.

Well that is my question. Any advise would be appriciated."
 
No I did not get any responses

No I did not get any responses from anyone.

This is where I am at and feel free to give any advice....PLEASE!!

With the previous post I was looking for an answer as to why the puller shaft appeared to push down the lower unit drive shaft when trying to remove the "chimney" outer bearing race.
Well I took the entire lower unit appart and found no movement of the back to back tapered bearings on the drive shaft. I suspected I pushed the drive shaft down thru the bearings about a 1/4 inch. But I did not :>)
So I found no reason for my issue. I put the lower back together and re-attached to the upper.

As I was reassembling the upper with the new gear set and installing the ujoint assembly I was getting to much gear engagement. I was puzzled for a while and then i FOUND IN THE SERVICE BULITEN THE NEED FOR A SPECIAL "HEAD" bearing driver. This driver sets the hieght of the inner bearinr race for the gears needle bearing and also set the depth of the inner needle bearing that the gear cluster shaft ride in.

Well none of the local marine businesses had this driver in there shops???????????????? I really questioned this to my parts guy.......How could they have done this job without the correct tools.

Anyway I purchased the driver.$22.00.

I was going to reassemble the upper last night but I took the shift linkage apart (which I asked the owner to do and he did not) the three piece linkage that the cable attaches to including the part that fits on the shift shaft and has the detent in it. the parts were severly worn and I had to order new ones. A replacement kit $70.00.

So that is where I stand as of now.

Anything you can add would be appriciated.

Thanks
 
"let me know the drive serial

"let me know the drive serial number pls, the uppers differ between shimable and not shimable, so let me know wat vintage we're dealing with, i'll check this site from work today and respond or at least bring the book home tonite. also, which service bulletin that mentions this tool are you refering to, by number.

these days, it doesn't typically pay to do major drive work for many shops, when rebuilt uppers or lowers are available quickly and with a better warranty than most shops offer. so even a qualified and certified tech (myself for instance) may not be doing nearly as much drive work as we once did."
 
"I am at work and do not have

"I am at work and do not have that info.

The drive serial number begins with OC it is a 1989 boat and as far as I can tell the drive is original. If you look at this year drive and try to order the cone clucth assembly it gets superceded to the new assembly and spits out a service bulliten I belive. The stuff is at home.

I think I am on the correct path here. The cone part of the shifting has a series of ring grooves and several deep grooves that cross the ring grooves. The original cone the ring grooves were worn flat and causing the cone to stick in the female cones attached to the gears.
Aslo there were other worn parts so This was needed and the customer has the $$$ to do this repair. This is the 3rd year I have had to do major work on this USED boat they bought.
First year was complete MSD marine ingintion and completely remove the transom assembly and a complete rebiuld. Lots of issues were found there including a broken gimbal ring, completely closed off water inlet at the transom. and a host of other issues.
The previous owner(s) put a high rise single plane dart intake manifold and a automotive holley 750 double pumper on it with no choke!!!!!!!!

Replaced that with a dual place edlebrock rpm gap intake and a barry grant 750 marine ( what a nice carb...........sweet!)

Replace the power steering assist do to corrosion causing steering issues. etc. etc .etc.

As far as shimmable, The uppers has a .094 and a .091 (factory) thrust washer/shims The kit said to replace with .054 and .051 so I purchased and have them. The .040 difference is also why you need the "head driver".

Your typical MISS USED can of worms if you know what I mean!!"
 
"well sir, i had a smokin busy

"well sir, i had a smokin busy day yesterday and did not get to look at this stuff for you, but clearly the drive is of an older vintage, and that should be enough to go on. i'll try and look for that bulletin myself today as well.

carbs and distributors, man i have not lived in that world for a long time. i work for a new boat dealer (formula and pursuit) and its all mpi and axius, volvo evc and ips, and v6-v8 yamaha. honestly, i would be thrilled just to rebuild an old quadrajet, those days were much simpler!"
 
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