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Hynautic Steering Leak

M

MMantell

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My 1989 Hynautic H-50 started

My 1989 Hynautic H-50 started leaking from the helm shaft. Can I change the seals myself or should I sent the unit out for repair?
 
"I haven't done this, but

"I haven't done this, but everything I read makes it sound very simple. There is a dealer on Ebay that sells the kits for about $20. I believe they include the instructions."
 
"Thanks for responding

I fo


"Thanks for responding

I found the seal kit locally, and installed it with no problems. When I put the helm unit back in the bar, I can't get the air out of the system. I followed the directions to a tee, and even tried a few tricks recomended by others. still no luck."
 
"What type of set-up do you ha

"What type of set-up do you have? I am assuming you have the H-50, and a reservalve, how many engines and steering cylinders?"
 
"Does anybody have an H-50 hyn

"Does anybody have an H-50 hynautic helm,or even just the housing."
 
"I have the H-50 with a reserv

"I have the H-50 with a reservalve and a K-10 ram assy for a single outboard. The reservalve is not holding pressure, so I have to find the leak. I don't think it is the air in the system that is causing the pressure to drop. And I still do not have any steering."
 
"I'm sure you know the dri

"I'm sure you know the drill. Reservalve is to be filled 3/4 of the way. Pump pressure up to about 30 pounds, etc. Are you saying that when you do this, the pressure is not holding? Any evidence of leaks at the helm, any of the fittings, or the ram?
This will make the second time I have repaired mine. I followed Hynautic's instructions: You open the relief valves on the lower front of the reservalve, maintain fluid and pressure, then turn the wheel slowly 60 times in one direction. You then reverse, 60 times in the other direction. On my boat, I also had to bleed the steering cylinders. They have bleed screws, but had to be removed so that they could be angled up to get all of the air out. The only time mine would not hold pressure was when one of the steering cylinders was leaking. Of course, you could clearly see the oil comming out at the seal. I guess logically, the only way it can lose pressure is if it has an oil leak, or an air leak. If it is an oil leak somewhere, you should be able to find drips at fittings, lines, or seals where the problem exits. If you have no evidence of oil leaking, and it will not hold pressure, I would suspect the O-ring on the plug, or the shraeder fill valve on the top of the reservalve. The kid's bubble soap works great here. Use an old paint brush and generously paint some around the plug and valve. The bubbles will tell it all."
 
While installing new seals in

While installing new seals in my H-50 helm I noticed 2 of the 9 pins around the inside of the case are longer than the other 7. They seem to interfere with the assembly of the plastic ball cage. What gives with that? Anyone know?
 
"I am working on a hynautic re

"I am working on a hynautic reservalve. When opening one of the purging screws, the screw sheared off. Anyone know if I can just replace this pin or do I have to replace the whole $550 unit? I was thinking about trying to drill it out or dremel out a flat spot for a screw driver. There is stil a bit of it sticking out. HELP"
 
I have a Hynautic K-02 steerin

I have a Hynautic K-02 steering cylinder that is leaking. The leaks appear to be at each ram seal. Are there any special tools required to replace these and are the required parts still available?
 
Re: mike
i believe the kit comes


I have a T50 steering system on my boat. I lost steering to the upper helm and later the lower helm. Adter a search the steering boss on the lower helm was found to be leaking out passed the steering shaft behind the wheel.
I ordered the kit from the USA. I detached the 3 inputs to the rear of the unit. There are two ways..easy and hard ! To undo the larger 11/16 union is difficult as they are incredibly torqued in. I gave up after damaging one. The smaller 15mm outer nut is the one to undo. Mark the rear input pipes port stbd middle.The unions are brass and soft.
when the pump was out undo the 4 bolts on the rear making note of the two " X" s positions. Once undone, over a bucket tap the shaft from the top . The lower half of the pump joined to the rear face drops away.
taking the front case remove the shaft carefully. Then with the front case on a hard surface with a towel over it, use a screw driver to carefully tap out the top plastic seal and lower rubber seal together with the white circular ballbearing and roller bearing rings. That completes the breakdown of the unit. Invert the front case and press by hand the kits new plastic upper mould into the shaft whole together with the new seal. There are 2 types of seal in the kit so check the old one to confirm the type needed. Refit the 3 roller bearing rings into position. Place a new O ring around the shaft and refit the ball bearing white disc back into position noting the guide pins.Refit the shaft back through the centre hole and tap fully home. On the rear part of the pump renew the 3 large O rings. By hand press rear half of pump back into front casing noting alignment of the two "X"s. Tap down diagonally with wooden handle of a hammer. Redo up the 4 rear plate bolts. Refit unit and hydraulic lines. Purge the unit. Tge job took 30 mins and I'm not an engineer. Hope this helps.
 
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