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Buying new boat

chillyattitude

New member
"Hey ya'll. I have posted

"Hey ya'll. I have posted here a couple Times about 50hp outboards but a once in a lifetime gift has fallen into my lap and I am scared. I recently aquired (for free) a 1988 sea ray sorrento 24 cuddy with a 5.7 mercruiser with only 61 hours and the hours were run in 2 years in 1988 and 1999. The boat motor and trailer have been sitting for the remainder of the time since. Peeling back the tarp was looking back in history. My questions/concerns are the motor. I have already assumed I need to replace the belts,hoses, cap, rotor, spark plugs, wires, prolly repack the bearings and maybe even replace the tires. I am thinking about filling the cylinders with mystery oil, before even turning her over, and beyond that is where I need some help. if anyone has any suggestions comments or concerns about what else I should do to this thingbefore I even try to turn it over or water test it I would be so appreciative. I am trying to cover every base befor I SCREW something up. Should I replace the water pump? (if any) Should I replace the fuel pump? Fuel filter (if any) So not aware of what I have to do but do know that I have a diamond in the rough."
 
"Check the transom, floor, eng

"Check the transom, floor, engine mount bases and stringers for rot--walk away from it if you find any especially if there is standing water in the bilge.

The block, manifolds and risers may have frozen and cracked so check the block for casting plugs that are missing; popped out from ice.

Pull the spark plugs and squirt a good shot of PB Blaster in each cylinder. Use a socket and breaker bar on the crank pulley to rock the crank back-N-forth. If it moves a little but hard, spray more PBB into each cylinder and let her sit overnight and try again. Pump out the old engine oil and see if there is any water in it. Engine may have rusted valves, rings, etc. if it was not put up for long storage.

Carb will need to be remand., fuel filters changed and fuel tank drained; might also need cleaning to remove varnish from old fuel. Put on a new fuel pump since the old one will have varnish gum and granules inside it.

If there is engine damage then I would just buy a new "drop-in" engine for all the time and trouble and extra money you'll end up spending trying to put the old beast back together. $4500

Drain the OD oil and replace the rubber impeller and oil. Lube all the drive zerk fittings. I bet that the bellows are dry rotted along w/the water inlet hose. While those are off lube the U-joints; replace if needed. Check the gimbal bearing and replace if needed.

A new After Market outdrive is about $1300 if needed.

Good luck on this monumentous project."
 
"Kerry,

Guy has pretty much


"Kerry,

Guy has pretty much put in a nut shell.

Guy,
If I can add one more bit to what you said.
If the manifold and risers have no cracks, it might be worth taking off the manifolds and risers to clean out any rust or crap that my clog up the flow of water into/around/from the engine.

I also had an almost comparable scenario last summer with a 1988 boat with 254 hours that had sat for 5 years. It took a lot of work (mainly labour), but now it is in the water as I type.

These guys at this site are very helpful.
I owe them a lot.
All the best,
JT"
 
"I agree with Guy, if any rot.

"I agree with Guy, if any rot......turn and run. Although you received it free........if rotted you can part it out on Ebay. I have rebuilt a few rotted hulls and it is do-able but not much fun. Amazes me how many people think that because they are made to float on water that you can also FILL THEM with water. I would never touch again a boat that has not been covered it's WHOLE life."
 
"Thanks to Guy, James and Will

"Thanks to Guy, James and William. As Far as the hull, and floors and decking everything is so solid and all shiny smooth fiberglass it is incredible. As far as anything freezing or popping , it doesnt happen here. To warm in the south. If anything freezes its for 2 hours then it is 80 again. The bilge was empty save for anything that didnt run out the drain hole or get sucked out by the plugged in bilge pump. I have learned that the motor had been run as recently as 1997 (still 11 years ago) and had new rear main seal put in and complete tune up before she was retired. It seems more and more information comes out of this boat the closer it is to being in my backyard.
As far as the rot that everyone is concerned about there basically isnt any. ANYWHERE other than the flip up wooden backing over the motor and even that is minimal. The carpeting is all pull away snaps and will be easily cleaned with a pressure washer and my HD washing machine. The vinyl throughout is soft and pliable. My biggest concern is the engine. It may actually have 250 hours on it but was baied and treated like a virgin by my cousin when he used it. I just want to do the right thing(s) when it gets here to keep its integrity and not (F) anything up. I can actually post pictures somewhere if it would make any difference. Thanks once again for all your help guys. I love this site and its comraderie.
Take Care and would love mor info,
Kerry"
 
"Sounds like a great deal then

"Sounds like a great deal then. First thing I always do for anything I own is buy a complete service manual. This will tell you the steps taken for storage and you can backtrack and check those areas to see if you can determine if they were done. Also it will show you where to look for missing drain plugs etc. Your main concern is going to be the fuel system. Pull the fuel tank to drain it. Check lines for rot. Change all filters, if it has a carburetor....rebuild it. Check anything that is rubber...........mice like to chew. Even though bellows are made with mouse deterent additives, I still hate mice! After it runs, I would only test it out on some small little body of water for the first year until you feel it is safe. Don't be goin to the ocean....just yet."
 
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