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Gear selection and adjustment

"hi all , just refitted the dr

"hi all , just refitted the drive this weekend ,so this evening (in the uk) i thought i'd test run with flush muffs to make sure we had drive and was able to select foward and back to neutral ! but shift to reverse cut the engine !!! the part that engages the cutout switch moves as i go into reverse .... i'd set the 6" setting on the cable , any thoughts ideas and suggestions please ? this is my first merc rebuild and testing her im worryed for the new water pump etc ...."
 
"This indicates stiff lower sh

"This indicates stiff lower shift cable or lower shift mechnism.
I would disconnect the eye of the lower shift cable at the bracket, and manually move it in and out. It should move easily and smoothly from for to aft with no rough spots. Both gears should engage and hold solid.

If not, I would pull the drive leg again first and make sure the shift shafts and the slider mechanism are not binding in some way.

Rod"
 
"the cable feels ok , seems to

"the cable feels ok , seems to want to rotate on its self but it isn't tight ! shift shaft etc is fine , cable was pulled to change bellows .
its when i select reverse the whole assmebly moves and the cut out roller is activated ! , as i say foward seems ok , im wondering if i should just take the boat for her maiden launch and try adjusting these gears on the water ????"
 
"Kev;
You're probably bet


"Kev;
You're probably better off to get things working well on land before you hit the "high seas".

If the engine is dying everytime you hit reverse that will be a big PITA when docking; not to mention dangerous depending on the circumstances.

If your switch is tripping when you shift into reverse, that means that the shift resistance is overcoming the centering spring that keeps the switch roller in the V notch. That means there is excessive resistance in the shift mechanism somewhere; that's all I can tell you.

It's usually the lower shift cable, but it can be the shift shafts and slider if they are not assembled exactly right.

Rod"
 
"hmmm high seas ? afraid not ,

"hmmm high seas ? afraid not , launch will be on a sedate non tidal river with a 5 knot speed limit
happy.gif
. ive tried fiddling with it again today and by tightening the nut that holds the fixture that holds the brass barrell and has the notch that the roller sits in , seems to have cured the problem !
another problem now .... trim up and trtailer buttons have stopped working ! arrrrgh . was ok a few days back when i bled the trim system . trims up if i bridge solenoid studs ! oh and the fuse is ok ???????"
 
Try a different routing of cab

Try a different routing of cable as you might have it bending to sharply while installed causing enough of a bind to engage cutout.

Kurt
 
"How the trim/tilt works

B


"How the trim/tilt works

Before you tear anything apart or replace wiring and switches, test it out; first by visual inspection by pulling back and forth on the wires while operating the switches and then test with a meter. At the commander switches, the red wire will always have 12 volts. The green wire gets 12 volts when the trim toggle is held down. The blue wire gets 12 volts only when the toggle is held up or the trailer switch is pushed in. The purple wire is part of the limit switch circuit.

If the switch voltages are as they are supposed to be then go to the trim/tilt pump assy. and make sure the purple wire connector (single wire) and the blue wire connector with two blue wires on one side of the connection are not corroded or loose. These are the trim position and limit switch wires. Pull them apart and inspect; they should be clean and tight; reconnect them. If necessary, trace the wires to the front of the engine near the slave solenoid. One wire is grounded near there and the other is connected to a terminal. If you don't get a voltage reading at the terminal junction, apply 12 VDC to see if the trim gauge moves. If it does, check for voltage back at the trim pump connections. If no voltage there, apply 12 VDC there to check gauge movement.

Next check the three wire connector (RED, BLUE & GREEN) at the pump assy. This plug can vibrate loose and cause your problem. Pull it off and see if the pins are clean and not corroded; reconnect it.

The RED wire in the plug sends 12 volts from the pump assy. to the toggle up/down and trailer up switches. The BLUE & GREEN wires bring 12 volts from the toggle trim/tilt and trailer switches to the two solenoids on the pump assy.

The GREEN wire goes to the DOWN solenoid while the BLUE wire goes to the UP solenoid.

Did you check the switches with an ohmmeter? The trim/tilt switch is a 2-way switch and will show continuity only when it is toggled in each direction between two of the wires.

Up toggle connects the RED wire to the BLUE wire. Down toggle connects the RED wire to the GREEN wire. The TRAILER UP switch also connects the RED wire to the BLUE wire.

The OD trim limit switch will only send voltage to the trim/tilt switch in the upward toggle position if the OD limit switch is below the adjusted trim limit that keeps the OD being out of the water.

To test the limit switch circuit, lower the OD to the down position and slowly raise it with the trim toggle up until it stops. Then measure the distance between the trim cylinder attaching bolts. If the distance is approx. 22 +/- 1/4 inches, then the trim limit switch is adjusted properly and the commander trim toggle switch is working in the up/down mode.

Go to the trim/tilt pump assy. and make sure the purple wire connector (single wire) and the blue wire connector two blue wires on one side of the connection are not corroded or loose. Pull them apart; they should be clean and tight; reconnect them.
Next check the three (RED, BLUE & GREEN) wire connector at the pump assy. The RED wire in the plug sends 12 volts from the pump assy. to the toggle up/down and trailer up switches. This plug can vibrate loose and cause your problem. Pull it off and see if the pins are clean and not corroded; reconnect it.

The BLUE & GREEN wires bring 12 volts from the switches to the two solenoids on the pump assy. The GREEN wire goes to the DOWN solenoid while the BLUE wire goes to the UP solenoid.

Disconnect the trim/tilt assy. wires from the battery and then check each of the nuts and studs on the solenoids for clean and tight fittings. Each solenoid has three wires and the buss bar connected to it. The bases of them have a black ground wire and a small blue wire to one and a small green wire to the other.

On top of each solenoid, the large BLUE wire from the pump motor attaches to a large copper stud with the solenoid that has the small blue wire at the base while the large GREEN wire from the pump motor attaches to a large copper stud with the solenoid that has the small green wire at the base.

The other copper solenoid studs are connected together with a copper buss bar. One of the two studs will also have a funny looking 110 amp fuse attached to the bar. The large RED wire from the battery connects to the 110 amp fuse. This large red wire is the power for this buss bar. A small RED wire attached to the bar stud sends 12 volts to the switches which in turn sends the 12 volts to the solenoids which turns on the pump motor.

Important: if the studs on the either solenoid are dark and not like a clean penny, especially the BLUE wired solenoid, this solenoid is failing due to age and/or a loose bottom copper stud nut. The dark color comes from heat generated inside of the solenoid by the contactor because it is arcing like welding similar to points wearing out. Change the solenoid.

Cleaning Trim Limit Switch & Trim Position Sender

For the trim/tilt problem you are experiencing, if the wires from the limit switch (port side) and trim position sender (starboard side) are in good condition, they (Switch or sender) can be disassembled to clean out the old hardened grease. SCRIBE the sides of each one and the OD for a reference mark before removal. Clean out the old grease and pump fresh Mercruiser 2-4-C grease thru the zerk fittings before reinstallation. Clean the small brass contact points with solvent and a pencil eraser until shiny; repack w/ 2-4-C grease and reinstall by aligning reference marks."
 
"thank you both for the help ,

"thank you both for the help , twas my stupidity that stopped the trim up button working ! seems only to trim up when in foward gear ? but will trim down whenever the button is pressed !
i mentioned earlier i'd cured the adjustment problem , hmmmmm no i haven't , ive moved the problem to where i select foward now! so im putting the first launch back to friday! something aint quite right here , but i'll find it !"
 
"Shift problem:
1. disconnect


"Shift problem:
1. disconnect the short shift cable from shift bracket on engine.
2. Push cable end all the way in and have someone turn the prop counterclockwise to fully engage forward gear.
3. Measure 6 inches from center of brass trunion to center of plastic cabel end "eye" that fits over the stud on the shift bracket.
"" this is done for the short shift cable only and this is all the adjustment needed for this cable.""
4. With the outdrive trimmed up a couple of inches from all the way down, (Trust me)have someone at the back of the boat to spin the prop by hand. (NO KEYS IN INGINTION!!!!!!).
reconnect all cables at the shift bracket.
5. Put shift controll in neutral, prop should spin freely with no clicking!!
6 Move shifter to the forward detent only!! and have second person spin prop Counter clockwise. The prop should engage solidly and stop moving.
If this happens correctly then go to next step.
7. move shifter back to neutral and check prop and it should spin freely again.
8 next shift to the reverse detent only!! and have the second person rotate prop clockwise to engage reverse.
The engagment should be solid and no clicking or "jumping out of engagement".
If there is any non engagement in reverse then you need to loosen the adjuster nut in the slot on the arm where the cable attaches and move the adjuster in the direction that will pull the cable.

Also all nuts that tighten the cables to the shift bracket can NOT be tight They must be a bit loose so the cable ends a can spin on the bracket!!!!

If all this works which it doeas 99.99% of the time you should be good to go.

Hope this helps.

Quasay expert on alpha shifting issues, been doing it nearly 20 years...........

Good luck

KGHOST"
 
"cheers ! we launched yesterda

"cheers ! we launched yesterday with only fowards , a bit of adjustment brought me reverse but then it stopped working again ! ive set something up wrong but ..... guess i'll look again when i put her back on the trailer next week ! i tried winding the boat up on an open stretch of river but she bogged at 1800 rpm , the boats 19 foot engines a merc 470 she has a solas f14 3/4x21rt prop , any suggestions please???"
 
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