View Full Version : 23L runs rough

05-03-2006, 11:58 PM
"I have a 90 2.3L OMC Cobra that runs rough I changed the fuel filter, cleaned the spark arrestor, and am thinking points, condensor, distributor cap next.Can someone tell me if I am headed down the right road(I don't want to keep shotgunning parts), and how to gap the points. I saw where it was .018, but not sure how to do it. Thanks Adam"

05-04-2006, 02:44 AM
Try to do a compression test of the engine.
The engine itself is not the most smooth running!

Eddie from Oregon
05-04-2006, 03:06 PM
Are you getting a misfire at accelleration or is it at high rpms? Did the problem happen suddenly for no reason? Did it happen after you did some maintainance?

05-08-2006, 10:25 PM
"Hey Eddie,
I think I fixed it. The points were too close. However, now it doesn't shift from FWD to Neutral without a fight. Any suggestions?"

05-08-2006, 11:11 PM
"Check your shift interrupt switches at the shift cable console. Carefully press in the one with the long 'arm' that goes in the cam. Does the engine drop in rpm? If not test it with an ohm meter. If it is working it may be the other 'override' switch that is stuck -measure that too with an ohm meter. If both switces work, it is probably the shift interrupt module."

05-08-2006, 11:19 PM
"Thanks Morten,
Since my points were out of Gap, would it be possible someone turned up the idle to compensate for that therefor causing the boat to idle too high and not shifting properly?
If so do you know what rpms the 2.3L should be shifting at? And how to adjust the idle if it is too high?
Thanks Adam"

05-09-2006, 12:13 AM
"Try to set the idle at 750 when in gear and boat moving. A litle + and - depending on how heavy your prop is. There is a screw at the throtle plate arm at the carburettor that is for the adjustment. I recomend to unhook the throtle cable when doing the adjustment.
The shift interupt system is purely (almost) on/off switches and is not influenced by the idle setting, but high idle makes shifting out of gear harder."

05-10-2006, 07:22 AM
Another common problem (after you check the interupt switch) is the shift arm in the drive. These can get truly sticky and can be freed up only after removing the drive. Ensure you have exhausted all other possibilties. Pull the drive and with someone turning the prop lube the shift rod and move in and out of both gears untill free. I have seen these so tight it takes a hammer to operate. Not recommended. WIth age and lack of use (winter) this can happen. (never shift without the engine or the prop turning) Periodic running and or shifting will help prevent this.

05-10-2006, 11:06 PM
"Thanks for the input boatrep1 and Morten.
I Checked the interupt switches with the engine at idle, out of the water with the garden hose and muffs. The engine idles at about 1050 rpms. I didn't have my ohm meter with me, however the switches sound like they are working. When I engaged the switches, the engine rpm didn't change. Also there is no shift problem when the boat is out of the water.With that said.....
My Question:
How do I trouble shoot the shift interrupt module?"

05-10-2006, 11:23 PM
"Out of water there will be no problem as you have no resitance at the propeller. If they work, you will have a remarkable drop in rpm when pulling out the one on the cam (long arm),( it partially cuts ignition) and the rpm will return to normal if you at the same time push in the other (it overrides the first one).
The way to troubleshoot the shift interrupt module is to be sure the switches works by using an Ohm meter. If the switches works, the trouble is in the module!"