Compession tests

I expect to buy one of two pri

I expect to buy one of two princess 414 boats.
One has the TAMD 60C engines the other TAMD 61A
Before going ahead with any purchase I want to do compression tests.
The information I've gathered so far is:-
The tool (Dummy injector for compression testing) for the TAMD 61A is a 9998009. But the Repair manual only says the pressure under starter motor speed should be within 10% of the value stated in the technical manual.The technical section of the user manual (TAMD61A)does not have this value.
On the TAMD60C this value IS in technical section of the user manual and is 355psi but the TAMD manual doesnt tell me the part number for the tool.
Can anyone help.
I need the part number for the tool (dummy injector for compression testing) for the TAMD 60C.. And the value of the pressure during a compression test at startermotor speed on the TAMD 61 A

The prospecive Vendors are all

The prospecive Vendors are allowing you to do this?

If they want to sell there boa

If they want to sell there boat they are.
As far as i'm concerned. I'ts just as much part of a viewing as lifting and hull inspection.
And in these day's they are desperate to sell.

"<[img]"http://www.marineengin

" MD7A Mystery starting problem. My engine now refuses to start. Compression - quite hard to turn over on the handle with valve lever down. Both injectors removed and tested on the delivery pipe in air - excellent spray pattern. Good battery turns over engine quickly. Recent fuel from auto supplier. Valves reset. Suspected timing of Injector pump so removed cover on the Bosch pump but could not find the mark to set against the pointer, so rotated pump to mid position."

If rotating pump to mid positi

If rotating pump to mid position did not work then I would rotate it back to where it was as you may have now multiplied the reasons it will not start. Then we can chat again.

Also it might be good to begin your own thread

"Have just tried to start new

"Have just tried to start new post but cant find it after sending so for now will repeat here then sort out a new thread.

This is a recap of a discussion started under (Compression Test). I have this engine in a 27ft sailboat. After a rough passage last year to the East Coast it started to become more difficult to start. My status - Mechanical Engineer, have owned Range Rover and Land Rovers and always kept the engines going. Owned this boat 5 years and never had this problem. Engine status - Fuel clean and recent from road filling station; Valves reset to .30mm; Injectors removed and tested out of engine on supply pipe and have good spray pattern; lift pump gives good supply to filter; return pipe has no bubbles; compression - hard to turn over on handle but OK on starter and turns quickly from good battery (fully charged from mains charger on boat).
Decided that most likely cause is the injector pump timing is out. On removal of inspection cover could not find the mark to set against the pointer in the Bosch pump so decided to set in mid position. Then I found that the two nuts holding the pump were only finger tight so had allowed the pump to fully rotate in the slotted holes clockwise. After settting in mid position it would not start. Joe suggested going back to where i started. So will try again tomorrow (Sun). Will try setting in incremental positions to try and get it started, then fine tune from there. Cant think of anything else after thia. Will report back tommorow. Thank you Joe for your quick reply."

"See if you can find any signs

"See if you can find any signs of where the pump was originally set up. marks or wear pattern or oil buildup lines, dirt build up lines or barely visible discernible pattern that would correspond to where the pump was originally set. Shiny spot vs grimy spot. Use stronger light for better viewing. Try not to obliterate any signs by randomly rotating the pump."

Thanks again Joe. Before tryin

Thanks again Joe. Before trying to rotate the pump I set up a strong light and with the aid of a mirror I found the timing mark. It was way out (approx 2-3mm). Then it was simple to set the injector pump timing. All pipes were slackened before attempting this. After bleeding through again (Filter;Hand pumping for 30 sec to bleed the Inj pump; then both injectors (No.2 then No.1)I tried to start without success. There does not seem to be any building up to firing. Next I checked for fuel coming out of the exhaust whilst cranking. There was not a trace. Yet the injectors gave a good spray pattern when I checked them out of the head! Could it be that there is still air in the system?

"Brian, 61 is 319.08 psi at st

"Brian, 61 is 319.08 psi at starter speed. Hot. adapter for 60 is 9996427. Hope this helps."

"Update on MDA7 non-starting.

"Update on MDA7 non-starting.
A friend suggested that the de-compression lever action is affected by the thickness of the cover gasket. (Logically it is but one would expect Volvo to have got this right!!!???). Some experts reckon they fit two gaskets to avoid the possibility of the valve rocker arm from hitting the shaft that compresses the inlet valves when the lever is operated. Anyway to test this out I released the nuts so the cover was not interfering with the shaft. It was just the same - no start!
My best clue at the moment is that no fuel is ejected from the exhaust after prolonged cranking. So, no fuel equals no start. Question - "Why, when the injectors show excellent spray pattern when tested out of the engine, is there apparently no fuel reaching the cylinders?"
This post started as a possible Compression problem. If I do not have sufficient compression to heat the mixture, where is the fuel going?"

"Ray:
In the original worksho

"Ray:
In the original workshop manual 'shimming' of the top cover is described.
Have You tried to spray with 'start assist'?
If You do, please be warned! Be sure the engine cranks first and spray while cranking! (You need two people probably).And keep the throttle in 'idle'."

"Ray,
If I recall correctly,

"Ray,
If I recall correctly, you said engine will run for awhile after priming. If that's correct, I would suspect an air leak in fuel lines.

Roger"

"Further update.
First thank

"Further update.
First thank you Morten. I have not come across "shimming" of the top cover but this is clearly connected with my last post and that has now been discounted by releasing the cover nuts. Re 'start assist', I have a canister of Easy Start connected through a hose to the air cleaner. I have used this in the past in cold weather and found a short 1 second squirt would start the engine instantly without long cranking. That does not work now.

Thank you Roger. No, the engine has not started attall during this post sequence. In the past I have identified no-fuel problems by a squirt of Easy Start whilst cranking. With no fuel the engine would start then stop. Interestingly if you use WD40 instead, the engine will run at low power as long as you feed it with WD40 - but don't try that with Easy Start that is more volatile.
Now my update. Trying to find what is happening to the fuel, I checked the oil dipstick and found it had gained a lot - about 30mm in fact and was obviously diluted.
The conclusions are now clear.
1.It is either blowing past the rings straight into the sump. Or
2.The gasket has blown between the two cylinders. I find this hard to believe as I fitted a new gasket late last year (2008). Or
3.Is it the valves incorrectly set?

Still baffling but at least It is not starting due to lack of fuel or more correctly the fuel is not being compressed as it is finding it's way into the sump.
I will keep this open for a while but the truth is the MD7A is getting old like me and I want to spend more time sailing when I visit the boat.
I am now negotiating a new BETA engine. The MD7A will be taken home and stripped to find out the reason. I may then rebuild it and offer it for sale as a complete engine or sell the many parts.
Watch this space."